The Best Watches of Watches & Wonders 2025

Introduced in 1928, the Tank à Guichet rethought the already novel Tank silhouette by swapping out the famous Roman-numeral dial for a jump hour display with dragging seconds. Worn by the likes of Duke Ellington, this beautiful Tank execution was reimagined on a handful of occasions throughout the past century. Now, the Guichet is getting a new lease on life within the brand’s Privé collection, which focuses on a single model family each year via a number of limited-edition references. Our favorite is a platinum execution with a never-before-seen dial orientation: The jump hour display, located at 11 o’clock, is rotated 90 degrees, as is the draggin minutes display at 5 o’clock. With its red printing, 12 o’clock crown and steel-like appearance, this Tank à Guichet embodies the “IYKYK” sentiment that pervades much of Catier’s oeuvre.

Diameter: 24.8mm

Movement: Cartier Cal. 9755 MC hand-wound

Water Resistance: Not water resistant

Adding to its stable of complicated watches with repeater functions (the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater and the Grand Complication), A. Lange & Söhne is introducing a new chiming watch combined with a perpetual calendar. The Minute Repeater Perpetual (Ref. 607.091FE), housed in a 40.5mm platinum case, features a classically-inspired, black-enameled gold dial with a white Roman-numeral hour indices; an outer railroad minute track; an outsize date display at 12 o’clock; and calendar displays at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. A slider on the left-hand case flank controls the minute repeater function, which is powered by the new hand-wound Cal. L122.2 movement. Exquisite in typical Lange fashion, it won’t be around long — limited to just 50 pieces, it’s sure to be snapped up by eager collectors. 

Diameter: 40.5mm

Movement: A. Lange & Söhne Cal. L122.2 hand-wound

Water Resistance: 20m

In constant production since 1938, the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is an OG pilot’s watch designed for use in the cockpit. While numerous executions exist, some of the most exciting versions are those powered by Oris’s Calibre 400-series movements, which offer an impressive five-day power reserve, antimagnetic properties and a 10-year warranty. In addition to several new references powered by third-party Swiss movements, Oris is debuting two fresh Big Crown Pointer Date references in its 40mm size with green and terracotta dials, both of which feature the Oris Cal. 403. Available on the brand’s H-link steel bracelet brushed and polished links or on brown Cervo Volante deer hide straps, they’re perfect everyday pieces that easily dress up or down.

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Oris Cal. 403 automatic

Water Resistance: 50m

Launched in 2019, Chopard’s Alpine Eagle collection saw the brand add a new chapter to the luxury sports watch story that began in 1980 with the St. Moritz. Now for the first time, Chopard is adding a platinum reference with a beautiful “Shades of Blue” gradient dial inspired by Alpine glaciers. Measuring 41mm wide by just 8mm tall, the impressively thin 41 XP CS Platinum is paired to a matching, reshaped bracelet with satin-brushed and polished links and a triple-folding clasp. (A small bee symbol set hand-engraved between the lugs indicates platinum construction.) Powered by the Chopard Cal. L.U.C 96.42-L automatic with micro-rotor, 65-hour power reserve and Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, this impressive luxury sports watch is proof that Chopard can compete with the best of them.

Diameter: 41mm

Movement: Chopard Cal. L.U.C 96.42-L automatic

Water Resistance: 100m

Bremont has significantly revamped its offering under the leadership of CEO Davide Carrato, who previously served stints at Movado, Tudor and elsewhere. The Altitude collection, which evolved from its famed MB (Martin Baker) series, includes all manner of aviation-themed timepieces, including a significant new development: The Altitude Perpetual Calendar is a giant leap forward in mechanical sophistication and offering. Housed in a 42mm titanium case, it maintains the overall collection’s aviation theme while offering a unique dial layout: At 12 o’clock is a domed globe that serves as a 24-hour indicator; at 9 o’clock is a running seconds indicator with a cool propeller hand; at 6 o’clock is a radial date indicator; and at 3 o’clock is a special combination leap year and month indicator. Nifty!

Diameter: 42mm

Movement: BHC9192-MH hand-wound

Water Resistance: 50m

In 2014, Bulgari embarked on a quest that would see it set 10 world records for ultra-thin watchmaking — an astounding feat for a brand whose background is in jewelry design rather than haute horlogerie. This year, the maison has set its sights once again on the complication that launched the Octo Finissimo magic, the tourbillon. The new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, measuring just 1.85mm tall, is now the world’s thinnest tourbillon-equipped watch. Consisting of a skeletonized, hand-wound movement with a tungsten carbide mainplate set within a microbead-frosted titanium case, its numerous components are visible via the dial. And unlike the other members of the Octo Finissimo Ultra collection, the time-telling subdial includes both hours and minutes in a single display.

Diameter: 40mm 

Movement: Bulgari BVF 900 hand-wound 

Water Resistance: N/A

Joining Montblanc’s innovative 1858 Geosphere collection is an exciting limited-edition Annual Calendar in stainless steel or Lime Gold. Housed in a 42mm case, it consists of an outsize date below 12 o’clock; a radial month display around the dial periphery indicated by a red arrow; and a hand-painted, three-dimensional globe depicting the northern hemisphere above 6 o’clock that serves as a handy GMT indicator. Powering this unique display is Montblanc’s first annual calendar movement, a Minverva calibre with 65 hours of power reserve and 336 components decorated with traditional Côtes deGenève and snail finishing. A fluted bezel and a blue calf leather strap complete the elegant picture.

Diameter: 42mm

Movement: Minerva Calibre MB M14.58 hand-wound

Water Resistance: 30m

In honor of 25 years of the J12 — the striking ceramic watch collection launched, if you can believe it, way back in 2000 — Chanel has released several new executions in various sizes and configurations, all of which feature matte blue and black-coated ceramic cases. A limited-edition 38mm is particularly cool: Powered by Chanel’s COSC-certified, automatic Calibre 12.1 with 70 hours of power reserved — which is built by Kenissi — it features a black-coated steel fixed bezel with a blue ceramic ring in a baguette-like pattern. The varnished matte-blue dial, meanwhile, features 12 baguette-cut sapphire indices and a luminous baton handset, while the case comes paired to a matching blue ceramic bracelet with a black-coated steel triple-folding buckle.

Diameter: 38mm

Movement: Chanel Calibre 12.1 automatic

Water Resistance: 200m

In its perennial quest for ever-more accurate timekeeping, Grand Seiko is revealing its new Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2, a freshly redesigned take on its famous hybrid movement that boasts accuracy of +/- 20 seconds annually — making it the world’s most accurate mainspring-equipped watch. Measuring a delightful 37mm and available in both titanium (with a a matching bracelet) as well as platinum cases, it features a beautiful dial in either silver-tinged blue (titanium) or deep blue (platinum) inspired by the forests of Shinshu, where Grand Seiko maintains a watchmaking studio. The new movement — which pairs a traditional mainspring and winding rotor with an integrated circuit — is visible via a sapphire caseback.

Diameter: 37mm

Movement: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2

Water Resistance: 100m

Glashütte-based NOMOS is a perennial favorite amongst watch lovers for its mix of Bauhaus-inspired minimalist design, in-house movements and innovative complications. Following an onslaught of 31 different wildly colorful Tangente models last year, it’s debuting an entirely new model (and movement) in the form of the Neomatik Wordltimer. Measuring 40mm in stainless steel and available in two colorways — and six more limited-edition colorways — it features an outer city ring with a mix of city and airport codes representing the world’s time zones; a 24-hour home time indicator bisected into day/night areas at 3 o’clock; a running seconds indicator at 6 o’clock; and the brand’s signature indices in Engravers typeface. A quick push of the advances the city ring, making time-tracking across zones a cinch.

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: NOMOS Neomatik Calibre DUW 3202 automatic

Water Resistance: 100m

Since 2005, Hublot’s Big Bang collection has consistently introduced new materials and innovative complications via a series of eye-catching timepieces. In celebration of 20 years of Big Bang, the Nyon-based maison is debuting numerous limited editions and collector’s sets — but we’ve personally got our eyes on the new Unico Mint Green and Petrol Blue. Measuring 42mm in lightweight ceramic cases, they feature two striking colorways that are sure to excite fans of colored watches. Paired to quick-change rubber straps and powered by the automatic Hublot MHUB1280 UNICO manufacture movement with 72 hours of power reserve, they’re each water resistant to 100m, making for colorful sports watches that can be worn day-to-day without fuss.

Diameter: 42mm

Movement: Hublot MHUB1280 UNICO

Water Resistance: 100m

Following in the footsteps of their limited-edition Formula 1 x Kith collection from 2024, TAG Heuer is bringing a newly redesigned Solargraph into its permanent collection — and outfitting it with its light-powered Solargraph quartz movement. Available in nine distinct references, the collection comprises three core-collection watches and six limited editions, each of which features a colorful case, dial and strap or (steel bracelet). Measuring 38mm, the cases are either DLC-treated steel or TH-Polylight, an advanced, lightweight material that offers myriad color possibilities and also composes the watch’s bidirectional timing bezel. Inside, the Solargraph movement turns a two-minute exposure to sunlight into an entire day’s power reserve — once charged for 40 hours, it can run for a continuous 10 months.

Diameter: 38mm

Movement: TAG-Heuer Solargraph 

Water Resistance: 100m

Established in 2018 by Ben Küffer with advisement from watch industry legend Jean-Claude Biver, Norqain has quickly gained market share for its daring tool watch designs, customization platform and new movements. The Skeleton Chrono 42mm — which is powered by the brand’s 8K movement with flyback functionality — is a fan favorite, and to that end, it’s receiving two new 500-piece limited editions this year in purple or jade detailing. While the purple version is certainly neat, the electric-green jade execution is particularly exciting: With a DLC-coated Grade 5 titanium case, it features a skeletonized movement with electric-green bridges as well as a matching rubber strap. Water resistant to 100m, it also features a customizable case flank that can be engraved according to the customer’s wishes.

Diameter: 42mm

Movement: Norqain 8K automatic

Water Resistance: 100m

For the first time, IWC is combining its Ingenieur luxury sports watch with the perpetual calendar mechanism first developed by Kurt Klauss for the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. Following on the heels of the newly reintroduced Ingenieur from Watches & Wonders 2023, the new Perpetual Calendar 41 takes its overall silhouette from Gérald Genta’s 1976 SL “Jumbo” ref. 1832: Measuring 41mm in stainless steel, it features the collection’s round case with short lugs an integrated H-link bracelet with brushed outer and polished inner links. The blue “grid” dial is a work of both art and economy: Featuring a radial day-of-the-week indicator with a small leap year window at 9 o’clock; a month and moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock; and a date indicator at 3 o’clock, it leaves over plenty of negative space while maintaining legibility.

Diameter: 41

Movement: IWC Calibre 82600 automatic 

Water Resistance: 100m

Despite its long history of marine chronometer production, Ulysse Nardin is a thoroughly modern maker whose cutting-edge timepieces largely eschew the staid traditionalism of Swiss watchmaking. Exhibit A: The famous Freak, which lacks a standard dial and hands. The new Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] rethinks the dive watch in the same manner that the Freak rethought the dial: Rather than opt for a heavy steel case and a simple black dial, U.N. went in the opposite direction, crafting a 44mm frame out of titanium and carbon fiber and creating the world’s lightest dive watch (52g with its trap and 46g without it). Beyond its ultralight housing, the Diver [AIR] also features a newly developed skeletonized movement optimized for weight — or the lack thereof. But don’t let this light weight fool you: The watch can withstand an impact in excess of 5,000 Gs.

Diameter: 44mm

Movement: Ulysse Nardin Calibre UN-374 automatic

Water Resistance: 200m

Famed contemporary artist Andy Warhol was most definitely a watch guy — in fact, he owned no less than seven Piagets. These pieces, powered by the era-defining Beta21 quartz movement, were part of the Black Tie collection. Following the establishment of an official partnership with the Andy Warhol Foundation, however, a fresh set of reissues/riffs on the Warhol watches is available as the “Andy Warhol” watches. The newest, a white gold case set with baguette- and round-cut blue sapphires arranged in three concentric rows along the bezel, features a mind-blowingly beautiful opal dial. Powered by the brand’s Calibre 501P1 automatic movement and paired to a simple dark blue alligator leather strap, it’s sure to be the talk of the town at Watches & Wonders 2025.

Diameter: 43mm

Movement: Piaget Calibre 501P1 automatic

Water Resistance: N/A