In 1970, Citizen produced a run of 2,000 pieces of its X-8 Chronometer — the world’s first titanium watch. Until that time, wristwatches had mostly been fashioned either out of stainless steel, precious metals, or — when steel was scarce — chrome-plated brass. The X-8 changed all that, but it would be decades before the industry at large followed suit in a meaningful way.
These days, companies large and small take advantage of titanium’s unique properties to build comfortable, lightweight executions of tool watches such as divers, chronographs, and more. (Dress watches are typically still made of either precious metals or steel.) The material’s magnetic resistance and temperature resistance are appreciated by watchmakers and consumers alike — however, titanium is actually softer than steel, meaning that without a special coating, it can dent and scratch easier than its more commonly available metallic cousin.
Two forms of titanium are typically used by watchmakers — Grade 2 and Grade 5. Grade 2 is a commercially pure (i.e. 99%) alloy that exhibits excellent corrosion resistance. Grade 5, on the other hand, contains 6% aluminum and 4% vanadium, making it more difficult to shape, but also much stronger than Grade 2. Both are employed in modern watchmaking.
While titanium watches were once prohibitively expensive, today, they can be purchased at virtually any price, from just a few hundred dollars to tens of thousands. Pricing will depend on numerous factors: The grade of titanium used; the type of movement; the construction; the name on the dial. Ultimately, people tend to buy titanium watches for one (or more of several reasons): Their lightweightness; their coloring, which can be grey, black, etc; or their hardiness. Others avoid titanium watches because they feel too light — some recoil at the sensation of, say, a $20,000 watch that barely registers its presence on one’s wrist.
As more and more companies adopt titanium (and other advanced materials such as ceramics) for watchmaking, it behooves you to sample some of these wares. Here, we’ve collected but a smattering at a variety of different price points. Next time you’re in a boutique, or at a watch show or convention, give one a try — you might enjoy the sensation of barely feeling a watch on your wrist at all!
Timex Expedition North Titanium Automatic
One of the least expensive entry points into titanium watches is the Timex Expedition North Titanium Automatic. Measuring 41mm and powered by an automatic movement from Miyota, it features a handsome grey dial with lumed sword hands and Arabic indices. Paired to an olive-colored fabric strap made from recycled ocean-bound plastic, it’s a great field watch for not a ton of dough — made all the more impressive by its 200m of water resistance.
Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Miyota Calibre 8215 automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
Price: $349
Citizen Brycen
Inspired by the brand’s barrel-cased, automatic chronographs from the 1970s, the Brycen packs a typical amount of Citizen-themed value at a retail price below $500: You get a dual-register chronograph with a 60-minute totalizer (plus a date window); titanium case construction with a matching, integrated bracelet; and the brand’s proprietary, light-powered Eco-Drive movement technology. Water-resistant to 100m, it’s an excellent and versatile titanium ticker.
Diameter: 43mm
Movement: Citizen Eco-Drive Calibre B642 (solar-powered)
Water Resistance: 100m
Price: $475
Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium
Baltic took the watch world by storm in 2018 with its vintage-inspired designs and affordable pricing. The Aquascaphe Titanium sees the French company dressing up its core diver offering in titanium, yielding a watch head that weighs just 55 grams. Combined with a brushed ceramic bezel, an attractive dial available in two colors (blue or black), and an included Tropic-style dive strap, and you’ve got yourself one good-looking, lightweight tool watch.
Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Miyota Calibre 9039 automatic
Water Resistance: 300m
Price: ~$765
Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Auto
Hamilton’s Khaki Field line includes all manner of cool and affordable field watches in a range of sizes, styles, and colorways. The Khaki Field Titanium Auto, with its 42mm titanium body in a matte black finish, is particularly fetching. With its military-style dial complete with 24-hour display and plenty of lume — plus an included rubber strap — it makes for a truly excellent piece of kit. The H-10 movement powering it, meanwhile, offers 80 hours of power reserve.
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Hamilton H-10 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
Price: $1,095
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph
Released early in 2023, the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph — with its semi-transparent dial — is the Swiss brand’s first light-powered watch. Sandblasted, Grade 2 titanium construction of the case and matching bracelet ensures a comfortable wearing experience, while ample lume and 200m of water resistance mean that this is a fully capable dive watch. Wear it beneath the waves, wear it out to dinner — just wear it!
Diameter: 40mm
Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre TH50-00 (solar-powered)
Water Resistance: 200m
Price: $3,050
Longines Avigation BigEye
Based upon a gorgeous, vintage Longines chronograph with oversized sub-registers, the Avigation BigEye was launched in a steel iteration and subsequently given a titanium makeover. Its “petroleum” dial fades from black to blue and is accented with vintage-style lume, while its automatic movement records events up to 12 hours in duration. A pleasing mix of 20th-century looks and 21st-century tech, it’s a distinct winner in our books.
Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Longines Calibre 866 automatic
Water Resistance: 30m
Price: $3,850
Tudor Pelagos 39
The Tudor Pelagos quickly became a “watch guy” favorite upon its launch in 2022. A scaled-back version of the brand’s famous high-tech diver, the 39 features Grade 2 titanium construction in a satin finish; the brand’s Manufacture Calibre MT5400 automatic movement; a unidirectional dive bezel with a ceramic insert; and 200m of water resistance. Pick one of these up, and you’ll never need another dive watch again. (Or maybe any watch, for that matter.)
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Tudor Manufacture Calibre MT5400 automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
Price: $4,700
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
Of all the watches worn by James Bond, the Seamaster Diver 300M designed for and featured in No Time to Die has to be one of the coolest. Though it measures a rather large 42mm, it wears smaller considering its lightweight construction and matching, mesh titanium bracelet. While the vintage-styled lume and “broad arrow” mark recall old British military watches, the chronometer-certified movement and helium escape valve are thoroughly modern.
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Omega Calibre 8806 automatic
Water Resistance: 300m
Price: $10,000
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium
The Zenith Chronomaster Sport, which provides a compelling package for the brand’s groundbreaking, automatic El Primero movement family, gives watch buyers an alternative to the aesthetically similar Rolex Cosmograph Daytona. The new titanium version, however, is a completely different beast: Weighing just 105 grams (including its matching bracelet), you hardly notice it on your wrist.
Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Zenith El Primero 3600 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
Price: $11,300-$11,800
Rolex Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium
The Crown’s second titanium watch, the Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium represents a big step forward for Rolex, which traditionally has crafted its watches only from stainless steel or precious metals. Sort of a souped-up version of the Submariner, the Yacht-Master 42 — unlike its cousin — measures slightly larger at 42mm; features a bidirectional timing bezel; and has a matching titanium bracelet. Scarily light but built like a tank, it’s an excellent vacation watch.
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Rolex Calibre 3235 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
Price: $14,050
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