In 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak turned the watch world on its head with its then-new combination of octagonal bezel; ultra-thin, automatic movement; integrated bracelet and outrageous pricing. Its designer, Gérald Genta, followed it up just four years later with the Patek Philippe Nautilus, designing a model that would come to embody that brand’s modern production for decades. When designer Jorg Hysek put pen to paper on a design for Vacheron Constantin, he no doubt had the then-new idea of the “luxury sports watch” in mind.
Debuting in 1977 in time for Vacheron Constantin’s 222nd anniversary, the 37mm 222 embodied several of Genta’s ideas but added its own twists: Housed in a flat, tonneau-shaped monobloc case with a notched bezel, it was fitted with a matching, integrated bracelet with hexagonal central links that gave it a fluid, cohesive appearance. Available in gold, steel and two-tone, its dial was simple and highly legible, fitted only with applied indices, a matching baton handset and a framed date window at 3 o’clock. Powered by the ultra-thin Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1120 — then the world’s thinnest full-rotor automatic movement — the 222 measured just 7mm tall. Finally, a small Maltese cross in the bottom right-hand corner of the case let you know you were handing something special.
Vacheron Constantin’s Newest Watch Is One of My 2024 Favorites
The fresh entry in the Patrimony line is a collaboration with French designer Ora ÏtoWhile the 222 may not have worked quite the same wonders for Vacheron that the Royal Oak did for AP or the Nautilus did for Patek, it is nonetheless one of the maison’s most important models and an icon of luxury sports watch design. In 222, the brand reissued it to much fanfare in a solid-gold version, setting collectors’ hearts aflutter. For 2025, the news may be even bigger: Vacheron is introducing a new stainless steel version of the watch with a gorgeous blue dial, adding yet another strong contender to the luxury sports watch melee. Housed in a 37mm stainless steel case fitted with a special 270th-anniversary, transparent sapphire caseback, it features several improvements over the original 222: The matching, integrated bracelet now features an ultra-secure triple-blade (“butterfly”) closure, while the Calibre 2455/2 movement beats at 4 Hz, boasts a 40-hour power reserve and measures just 3.6mm thick.
The new matte blue dial is a sight for sore eyes and has likewise been reengineered, with fresh date window placement — it doesn’t interfere with the minute track like on the original 222 — SuperLumiNova lume and vintage-inspired typography for the “AUTOMATIC” wording above 6 o’clock. Finished with a yellow gold Maltese cross in the bottom-right hand corner of the case and offering 50m of water resistance, this new Historiques reference 4200H/222A-B934 is otherwise a 222 through and through, complete with pricing to match ($32,000). (We should note, however, that the case, at 7.95mm thick, is taller than that of the original. But we’re not sure anyone is going to care!)
In a horological landscape in which sub-40mm watches are finally making a strong comeback, a 37mm stainless steel flagship sport watch feels right on time. (We use “sports watch” lightly, as it’s actually the Overseas models that are best equipped to properly knock around.) Joining its solid-gold cousin, it offers entry into the luxury sports watch fold at less than half the price ($32,000) of that august golden timepiece ($74,000). Considering the auspicious birthday, we can no doubt expect even more exciting releases to mark the occasion as the year rolls on.
See you all at Watches & Wonders!

Vacheron Constantin 222
Diameter: 37mm
Movement: Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2455/2 automatic
Water Resistance: 50m
Notable Feature: Steel, ultra-thin construction; matte blue dial
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