With summer well behind us, it’s time to start gearing up for a full calendar of Q4 horological mayhem. There’s Dubai Watch Week, auctions taking place in NYC, Geneva and elsewhere, and the GHPG Awards.
Baltic’s Newest Dive Watches Hit the Sweet Spot
Available in two sub-40mm sizes for well under $1,000, the Aquascaphe MK2 is sure to be an instant hitBefore all the insanity begins, however, we should take stock of all the cool pieces that came out in September. Besides Tudor’s first-ever moonphase complication and an ultra-cool seafoam-dialed diver from DOXA, there’s also a debut watch from a new brand, a fresh GMT model from Victorinox and a Ulysse Nardin with a dial inspired by silicon chips. And if you’re on the hunt for something distinctly affordable, the new Nodus Sector II Field Titanium – Tropical Limited Edition is worth pursuing, even if you have to do so on the secondary market (this one didn’t last long on shelves).
Check out our favorites below, and see y’all in October!
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar
While we see plenty of perpetual and annual calendars these days, mid-century-esque triple-calendar watches — those that display the day, date, month and moonphase but require manual adjustment each month — are fewer and farther between. Thankfully, JLC still produces its Master Control Calendar, a handsome triple calendar with superb looks and excellent mechanical bona fides. This new version, which features a grained dial in two shades of gray and La Grande Maison’s in-house cal. 866 automatic movement, is one of the most refined executions the brand has ever produced. Seeing as it’s limited to just 500 pieces, you might want to snag one before the rest of the watch world catches on.
Diameter: 40mm
Movement: Jaeger-Lecoultre cal. 866 automatic
Water Resistance: 50m
Price: $15,300
Tudor 1926 Luna
Though Tudor has received major watch guy points for outfitting many of its sport models with in-house movements — all while keeping prices relatively affordable — there are still certain models that use third-party Swiss movements to great effect. Check out, for example, the new Tudor 1926 Luna. Containing the brand’s first-ever moon phase display, this dressy steel model clocks in at less than $3K, thanks to the use of Tudor’s cal. T607-9 automatic, a modified Sellita movement. With three dial colorways and a matching steel bracelet on offer — not to mention a cool, modern interpretation of a classic complication — this is a timepiece whose sheer value is tough to argue with.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Tudor cal. T607-9 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
Metrical Watch Epiphany Origin
For someone in search of a more poetic or unconventional time-telling display, the new Epiphany Origin from Metrical Watch presents an interesting proposition: Within the model’s 39mm case sits a textured dial in blue and white displaying celestial motifs. On the dial’s upper quadrant, hours “6” through “6” are shown in an 180-degree arc, beneath which sits a rotating moon and sun disc. Corresponding with the hour ring, this serves as the watch’s hour indicator, while a single, centrally-mounted hand functions as the minute indicator, pointing to a railroad minute track at the periphery. Powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement, it offers a touch of elegant whimsy to the act of timekeeping for less than $3,000.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Sellita cal. SW331-2
automatic
Water Resistance: 50m
Nodus Sector II Field Titanium – Tropical Limited Edition
This limited-edition Nodus sold out quickly after debuting, but it’s cool factor and and great looks make it worth pursuing on the secondary market, even if you can’t snag it for its incredible list price of just $550. Limited to just 75 pieces, it has the feel of a vintage Benrus or Hamilton MILSPEC field watch but with added dimensionality that those models lack. The dial, with both gray and brown colors, is accented with vintage-style lume across its hand and both 12- and 24-hour registers, while the Cerakote titanium case measures a perfect and highly comfortable 38mm. Boasting 100m of water resistance and paired to a cool Disruptive Pattern Material (DPM) Hybrid TecTuff Strap, this is a thoughtfully-designed piece from a leading microbrand.
Diameter: 38mm
Movement: TMI cal. NH38 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Seafoam Limited Edition
A Watches of Switzerland exclusive, the new SUB 300 Carbon Seafoam Limited Edition from DOXA melds the brand’s awesome black carbon case to a beautiful teal-colored dial in a unique pairing. White printing in the watch’s “no-deco” bezel insert and dial indices pull at striations in the carbon housing, giving this special SUB 300 just the right amount of flair. A black rubber strap and seafoam NATO give the wearer plenty of choices in how to style it, while 300m of water resistance make it perfect for use in SCUBA diving or more casual snorkeling. Heck, even if you only wear it around the office, the Seafoam Limited Edition is one of the brand’s coolest LEs.
Diameter: 42.5mm
Movement: ETA cal. 2824-2 automatic
Water Resistance: 300m
MING 37.05 Lunatic
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia-based Ming will sell you a watch for tens of thousands or just a few-thousand bucks. Either way, you’re getting a tremendous amount of watch for your money. The 37.05 Lunatic is in the latter category with respect to price, but its unique take on the moonphase complication paired to the brand’s signature case design is enough to capture one’s imagination. As a luminous disc situated beneath the sapphire dial spins in concert with the movement, it indicates the moon’s current phase. The date, meanwhile, is read through a traditional cutaway at the dial’s bottom, but the date disc itself is also partially visible through the dial.
Diameter: 38mm
Movement: Sellita for MING cal. SW288.M1
Water Resistance: 300m
Ulysse Nardin Blast [Free Wheel Marquetry Silicon Green]
Though it’s perhaps best known for its unique Freak watch and unusual oscillator, Ulysse Nardin is also famed for its creative and longstanding use of silicon. The new Blast [Free Wheel Marquetry Silicon Green] utilizes this material in two ways — within the hand-wound UN-176 Manufacture movement and as part of the dial, which is composed of 103 slivers of laser-cut monocrystalline silicon in a radiant green color in both matte and polished finishes. The net effect is a dial that takes on the aspect of a semiconductor chip, upon which is set a flying tourbillon with a constant-force escapement and many other key movement components. A limited-edition of just 10 pieces, the new Blast is available exclusively in the United States.
Diameter: 45mm
Movement: Ulysse Nardin UN-176 Manufacture hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Bell & Ross BR-X3
Utilizing cockpit instruments as inspiration, Bell & Ross has designed some of the horological world’s most compelling tool watches. Available in both titanium and steel versions, the new BR-X3 collection expands the brand’s available options via a multi-layer case designed with a sandwich-like structure. On one version, titanium top and bottom plates hold the remaining components together, while a black rubber strap is visible via the caseband. On the other, steel plates sandwich a blue rubber strap. The BR-X3’s dial, meanwhile, is highly dynamic, with a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock balanced with a date window at 3 o’clock and a mix of applied indices and a printed seconds/minutes track.
Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Bell & Ross cal. BR-CAL.323 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
Victorinox Air Pro
Able to track three time zones and water resistant to 200m, this tank of a GMT is part of an ever-expanding collection of mechanical watches within the Victorinox lineup. Catering to frequent travelers with an adventurous side, it’s housed in a brushed 43mm stainless steel case with a matching flat-link bracelet and boasts a black dial via a luminous sword handset, a 6 o’clock date window and a highly technical design reminiscent of a cockpit instrument. While an outer 24-hour scale in yellow rings the dial periphery, a city ring in white printing surrounds luminous Arabic and dash indices, a 1/5th-seconds track and a secondary, inner 24-hour scale. If you prefer a chunkier tool watch with plenty of bells and whistles, this is it!
Diameter: 43mm
Movement: Sellita cal. SW330-2 automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGW007
Just when you thought Grand Seiko might run out of beautiful nature-inspired dial designs, they come out with something like the Evolution 9 SLGW007. Measuring 38.6mm in 9.95mm-thick stainless steel that boasts multiple finishes, it’s fit with a gorgeous, dark blue dial in a texture meant to evoke the “bark of a white birch tree illuminated by the moon.” It does this to spectacular effect, adding only a set of applied indices, the “Grand Seiko” wordmark and logo, and a leaf handset to the design. Powered by the Grand Seiko cal. 9SA4 hand-wound hi-beat movement and paired to a matching blue leather strap, the SLGW007 a stunning dress piece from one of the watch world’s few truly vertically-integrated manufacturers.
Diameter: 38.6mm
Movement: Grand Seiko cal. 9SA4 hand-wound
Water Resistance: Splash resistant
Hermès H08
The Hermès H08 — a unique design in the everyday/sport category — is now available in two new colorways. The first, in brushed titanium with a matching bracelet, is largely monochromatic, save for a small orange tip to its central seconds hand. It’s also available in your choice of blue, orange or black rubber strap or blue or black fabric strap. The second injects a bit more color into the proceedings with light blue indices and hands, a matching rubber strap and a black ceramic bezel with alternating satin and polished finishes. Both versions feature a time-and-date display with a 4:30 date window and the brand’s Manufacture Hermès H1837 self-winding movement paired to a 42mm cushion-shaped housing.
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Hermès cal. H1837 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey
British watchmaker Bremont’s partnership with ejection seat manufacturer Martin-Baker continues to yield horological fruit in the form of the new Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey. Crafted from treated Grade 2 titanium and treated with a matte finish, the watch takes the form of a dual-crown, 42mm Super Compressor-style design with an inner rotating bezel. The case itself is one of Bremont’s signature Trip-Tick designs, with an inner knurled black PVD barrel sandwiched between an angled bezel and the watch’s caseback. The dial, executed in a meteorite-inspired texture, is treated with an electro-applied finish for durability. Powered by a Swiss-made movement and paired to a matching titanium bracelet, it’s a great option for someone looking for a larger pilot’s watch.
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Bremont cal. BB14-AH automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
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