Doxa Is Introducing a 40mm GMT Dive Watch

Doxa’s Sub line of deep-diving, tonneau-cased, brightly-colored dive watches have been the hardcore scuba practitioner’s choice for 50 years. Worn by the likes of mega-bestselling author (and avid diver) Clive Cussler — as well as by his famous protagonist Dirk Pitt — the Sub transformed from a niche object into more ubiquitous contemporary favorite because of the ceaseless advocacy of watch journalists and collectors such as Jason Heaton and James Lamdin. Today, every collector worth his or her salt knows of these fine watches or even owns one.

For the first time in nearly 20 years, Doxa is expanding into travel watch territory by introducing a GMT into its lineup. Unlike 2006’s Sub 750T GMT, however, this one is more in line with the modern preference for slightly smaller watches. Measuring 40mm in stainless steel, the new Sub 250T GMT features the brand’s famous tonneau-shaped case, beads-of-rice bracelet or rubber strap, and colorful dial in one of nine signature colors. Also present are the large luminous indices; the unique handset with an oversized minute hand for tracking elapsed time under water; a date window at 3 o’clock; and the “no-decompression”-scale bezel developed from U.S. Navy dive tables.

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This being a GMT, there’s also an additional fourth hand for tracking a second time zone, plus a bi-color 24-hour scale on the rehaut used in conjunction with this hand. This hand can quickly be differentiated from the main timekeeping hands by virtue of its skeletonized center, helping to clean up what might otherwise be a busy design. (There’s also a special Sharkhunter Vintage execution with a black gradient dial and a more traditional, arrow-tipped GMT. This handset is arguably easier to read.)

Powering the watch is what the brand describes as a Swiss movement running at 28,800 vph and boasting a 50-hour power reserve, which means it’s like the Sellita or ETA “caller” caliber with an independently adjustable GMT hand. (These watches make for quick and easy adjustment of a second time zone, while “flyer” movements, such as those from Rolex, make for quicker adjustment of local time.) Water resistance of 250 meters and a height of just 10.85mm make this a distinctly wearable piece, while plenty of Super-LumiNova lume keep it legible both above and underwater.

Priced at $2,450 on FKM rubber and just $2,490 on steel, this — as is typical of Doxa — is a ton of watch for the money. Whether you’re a frequent diver or traveler or simply love the idea of a colorful, robust everyday watch, it’s going to be tough to resist the pull of the Sub 250T GMT.