Look back far enough into horological history, and you’ll find the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Romans — everybody, really — devising ingenious methods for tracking the movements of the heavens. It wasn’t until the late medieval period, however, that something resembling a modern clock with astronomical complications was developed. One such complication that shows the phase of the moon as seen from Earth is particularly beloved — not necessarily for its utility, but for the whimsical manner in which the lunar surface is depicted, the romantic nature of the complication itself and the micro-mechanical precision required to render it with accuracy.
One of the earliest uses of the moonphase complication in wristwatches is credited to none other than Patek Philippe, whose perpetual calendar with calibre 97975 was cased exactly one century ago in 1925. (Interestingly, its movement was developed in the 19th century for a ladies’ pendant watch, showing that Patek long had the technology to develop a miniature perpetual calendar.) Though it would take another 16 years before Patek built a perpetual calendar watch in series (1941’s ref. 1526), the moonphase indicator quickly spread throughout the larger watchmaking world, making appearances on triple-calendar models and, later, on QPs from other brands. (It would take quite a while for other marques to catch up to Patek and develop serially-produced perpetual calendars, though several of them made limited-series or one-off pieces throughout the 20th century, including Breguet.)
Today, the moonphase complication is more prevalent than ever. Though it’s still largely relegated to calendar watches — where it’s a common feature — it also occasionally presents itself as a standalone complication on dress watches or utilitarian tool watches. And while many of these pieces are mechanical, the affordable MoonSwatch has brought the moonphase complication to the masses, with the Mission to the Moonphase sub-series opening up the playing field. So you can pay less than $500 for a moonphase watch today, or you can pay several hundred-thousands bucks, plus everything in-between. In short, the moon is your oyster! (Or something.)
The Best Moonphase Watches
Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase – Full Moon
The MoonSwatch is a godsend for those looking to break into the world of moonphase complications without draining their savings. Though the base model doesn’t include a moonphase indicator, several special versions — such as the Mission to the Moonphase – Full Moon — do. Measuring 42mm in a white bioceramic case with a matching Velcro strap, this piece boasts a triple-register display with a double-moonphase indicator at 2 o’clock. Look closely and you’ll notice Snoopy — who has a longstanding association with NASA — taking a snooze on the moon, while a real “dot-over-90” bezel is there to delight Speedy collectors.
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Quartz
Water Resistance: 30m
Frederique Constant Classic Moneta Moonphase
This quartz-powered moonphase from Frederique Constant may be one of the handsomest new designs to feature this complication, and at a price that can’t be beat, no less! Housed in a 37mm stainless steel case, it boasts a milled inner bezel flange that imitates the look of a coin, hence the model’s name. The dial itself is silver with radial sun ray finish, applied dart indices, a faceted leaf handset and a simple moonphase display above 6 o’clock. Classically styled and paired to a brown leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching, it makes for an excellent entry in the dress watch category more broadly and the moonphase category more specifically.
Diameter: 37mm
Movement: Frederique Constant cal. FC-206 quartz
Water Resistance: 50m
Farer Baily
The Baily from British brand Farer is unique in several respects. First of all, there’s the 39.5mm “C”-shaped stainless steel case, a silhouette not often seen in dressier moonphase watches. Then there’s the beautiful teal-colored natural aventurine dial, which is machined from a slice of rock just 1mm thick. Finally there’s the central moonphase, which puts the complication front and center rather than relegating it off into a corner. Combine these features with Lumicast indices, a polished lance handset, your choice of leather strap and a manually-wound Swiss movement, and you’ve got yourself one of the most interesting moonphase watches on the market.
Diameter: 38.5mm
Movement: Sellita SW288-1 Elaboré hand-wound
Water Resistance: 50m
Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow
Like Farer, Christopher Ward is also an English brand making great strides in the microbrand/independent watchmaking world. The C1 Moonglow is evidence of the firm’s aesthetically adventurous and colorful spirit. Measuring 40.5mm in stainless steel, it has distinctive tool watch vibes that make it more akin to a diver than a dress watch. First up is the outer pointer date complication with rotating red indicator, then there’s the enormous luminescent twin-moon display that takes up nearly the entirety of the dial. Combined with a stainless steel bracelet and powered by an automatic movement, it’s perfect for everyday wear.
Diameter: 40.5mm
Movement: Christopher Ward cal. JJ04 automatic (Sellita base)
Water Resistance: 30m
Tudor 1926 Luna
The latest addition to the Tudor catalog, the 1926 Luna slots into the elegant 1926 line by offering a moonphase complication within one of the brand’s dressier collections. At 39mm in stainless steel, this is a model with thoroughly modern proportions. That being said, the moonphase at 6 o’clock pulls much from vintage examples, while the mix of applied Arabic, dart and circular indices against one of three available dial colors makes for a beautiful and versatile display. What’s more, each watch comes on a matching steel bracelet and is water resistant to 100m — perfect for someone who doesn’t want to baby his watch.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Tudor cal. T607-9 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase
If you’re interested in mid-century looks without the fuss of an actual vintage watch, try the Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase on for size. Though it’s available in several iterations, we’re partial to this handsome cream-dialed version with yellow gold-toned applied indices and matching luminous hands. The moonphase at 6 o’clock doubles as a date display in the mode of older triple-calendar watches, while the modern Longines cal. L899 movement provides some modern horsepower via automatic winding. Paired to a simple brown leather strap, this beauty measures 38.5mm, a perfect size for both men and women.
Diameter: 38.5mm
Movement: Longines cal. L899 automatic
Water Resistance: 30m
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer
Yet another brand-new moonphase model — hey, maybe the watch industry is coming around to this complication! — the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer displays the moon’s phases in an atypical manner. Rather than using a rotating disc with an illustrated (and occasionally anthropomorphic) display, it features a static readout of the various lunar modes and a small indicator hand that revolves throughout the month. Giving the feel of a scientific instrument, especially with its powerful Arabic indices and matching steel bracelet, it’s perfect for someone who prefers a more utilitarian watch. It also boasts 100m of water resistance.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre 7 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
Baume & Mercier Clifton 10548
Part of the Richemont Group, Baume & Mercier makes surprisingly affordable pieces, many of which integrate classic complications. To that end, the Clifton 10548 features a double moonphase display, date indicator and radial day-of-the-week indicator, making it a day-date-moonphase watch. At 39mm in a stainless steel case with faceted lugs, it has whispers of Laurent Ferrier-influenced design language. Though at a hair less than $5,000, it’s certainly in a different price category altogether, offering a taste of haute horlogerie for roughly half the cost of a Submariner.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Baume & Mercier Baumatic cal. BM14 1975 AC2 automatic
Water Resistance: 50m
Hermès Arceau Grande Lune
By utilizing a third-party Swiss movement, Hermès is able to offer a beautiful triple-date-moonphase watch for well under $10,000. A small watch this ain’t, however: Measuring 43mm in stainless steel, it’s ideal for a bigger guy or someone who prefers a case size with some heft. The pocket watch-inspired, wire-style lugs and onion-type crown give it a uniquely Hermès twist, while the dial — which features a custom typeface for the Breguet-like numerals — is a thing of beauty, with subtle day and month indicators joining the radial moonphase/date display situated above 6 o’clock.
Diameter: 43mm
Movement: ETA 2982 base
Water Resistance: 30m
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Moon
Another gorgeous, vintage-inspired option available in multiple executions, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Moon is handsome, well-sized and, well, ultra-thin. It measures just 9.3mm despite an automatic movement — not the stuff of Octo Finissimo dreams, to be sure, but pretty great for $11,900. A relatively thin bezel means this watch is mostly dial, which is great news. The applied dart indices and matching leaf handset traverse largely negative space, while the small moonphase/date indicator does its job in the lower quadrant. An exercise in restrained design, the Master Ultra-Thin Moon is a thing of beauty.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 925 automatic
Water Resistance: 50m
Omega Speedmaster Moonphase ‘Blue Side of the Moon’
And now for something completely different: The Omega Speedmaster Moonphase ‘Blue Side of the Moon’ is seemingly designed for the guy who needs to know the phase of the moon while on the actual moon. Measuring a huge 44.25mm in striking blue ceramic, it boasts the Speedy’s typical tachymeter bezel, plus a dial featuring not only a moonphase indicator but also a radial date indicator at 9 o’clock and a combination 60-minute and 12-hour recorder at 3 o’clock. Not many moonphase watches are combined with a traditional chronograph. Add in the advanced ceramic case and Omega’s Co-Axial technology, and you’ve got yourself a winner!
Diameter: 44.25mm
Movement: Omega cal. 9904 automatic
Water Resistance: 50m
Zenith Elite Moonphase
Powered by Zenith’s ultra-thin Elite automatic movement, the Elite Moonphase puts the lunar complication front and center by removing all extraneous detail, save for a small seconds indicator at 9 o’clock (well, that and the beautiful silver sun ray-pattern dial that serves as the backdrop). When combined with the piece’s applied rose gold indices, matching handset and 40.5mm rose gold housing, the net effect is striking. Boasting a 50-hour power reserve and paired to a blue alligator leather strap with a protective rubber lining, it lends itself well to everyday wear.
Diameter: 40.5mm
Movement: Zenith Elite automatic
Water Resistance: 50m
Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7787
Breguet’s wristwatches draw heavily on company founder Abraham-Louis Breguet’s pocket watch designs from the late 18th and early 19th centuries. This Classique Phase de Lune 7787, for example, features a beautiful white grand feu enamel dial with signature black Breguet indices, a Breguet handset and dual complications. While the moonphase display takes up a prominent bit of dial real estate below 12 o’clock, a power reserve indicator is visible between 3 and 6 o’clock. With its coin-edge white gold case and cal. 592 DRL automatic movement, the 7787 is a beautiful melding of vintage and contemporary designs.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Breguet cal. 591 DRL automatic
Water Resistance: 30m
Meet your guide
Oren Hartov
Oren Hartov writes about watches — and occasionally menswear, design, travel and other things — for InsideHook and other publications. He tries to blend his deep love of history with a fascination with horology, focusing on military watches, tool watches and the beautiful dress watches of the mid-20th century. A gigging musician, SCUBA diver and military veteran, he has a particular love for purpose-built timepieces such as the Rolex Submariner or Omega Speedmaster — but feels just at home writing about an elegant Patek Philippe Calatrava.
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