The Rolex Submariner, the Omega Seamaster, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms…these venerated models are often touted as the ultimate dive watches — and with good reason. Dating to the 1950s, their designs are timeless, utilitarian and handsome. What’s not to like?
A dedicated waterproof chronograph, however, adds yet another layer of utility to the horological equation: While a rotating elapsed-time bezel can track, say, bottom time or decompression stops, a chronograph can track yet another event, such as a surface interval (i.e. the amount of time one must spend topside before embarking on a subsequent dive). If one could combine these features in a single timepiece, one has a supremely useful watch.
There are issues with this premise, of course: Traditionally, most chronographs use “pump”-style pushers whose gaskets can be compromised if used under water. But as watchmaking technology has advanced, companies have found ways to ensure water resistance even with this pusher type. (This sometimes involves the use of multiple gaskets.) Screw-down pushers, however — which are seen on many diving and other chronographs — are often a sign that one shouldn’t engage them underwater, as the screw-down action prevents the user from actuating them.
But wait, you say — why have a waterproof chronograph with pushers that aren’t meant to be used under water? Many of these watches are effectively designed (and sometimes marketed) as “two watches in one” — a dive watch while under water, and a chronograph topside. This remains just as true today: Imagine being able to dive to 40m and then time a race at the track, all in the same day, using the same watch? Or, as a diver, imagine being able to time a safety stop using the watch’s rotating bezel, and then use the chronograph while on the dive boat to time a surface interval?
Of course, it’s important to say that in 2025, all of these use cases are largely antiquated by nature: A digital dive computer serves all the aforementioned underwater purposes, and any mechanical chronograph is largely an anachronistic vestige of the mid-20th century. However, that being said: Seeing as we watch collectors are largely suspending our disbelief in order to collect these neat little mechanical devices anyhow, one may as well consider the relatively niche form of the dive chronograph as yet another available, wrist-worthy option.
The utility of these pieces is genuine (if admittedly redundant), and the designs are beautiful. If you can swing the increased cost of a dedicated waterproof stopwatch and you enjoy the idea of wearing one, we say: Why not?
What Makes a Dive Chronograph?
Increased Water Resistance: Often a dedicated dive chronograph will feature at least 200-300m of water resistance, whereas traditional (and especially dressier) models will feature no more than 100m, and often less.
Screw-Down or Pump Pushers: Though not every dive chronograph has screw-down pushers, many do — the idea being that the lock-down mechanism prevents you from using them underwater. Other models, however, have pushers that are either only meant for topside use or, on select models, actually made for underwater actuation.
Oversized Cases: Given their increased water resistance ratings, many — though not all — dive chronographs have both wider as well as thicker cases than time-only counterparts. (The bright side of this sizing is that the dials are also larger, offering increased legibility.)
Automatic Movements: It’s rare to find a manually-wound dive chronograph for the same reason it’s rare to find a manually-wound time-only diver: Winding the crown puts strain on the gaskets, leading to increased wear and tear — and lessened water resistance.
Rubber Straps: Unlike on traditional automotive or dressier chronographs, many dive chronographs come from the factory with rubber straps fit for the water. (Others may ship on bracelets with dive extensions.)
AN IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT assume that the chronograph on a “dive chronograph” is actually meant to be used under water. SOME — such as certain models from Omega or Blancpain — are designed this way, but many feature pump pushers that will retain their waterproofing at depth, but are only made to be actuated in air. When in doubt, check with the manufacturer.
The Best Dive Chronographs
Certina DS Action Diver Chronograph
Despite flying well under the radar, Swatch Group-owned Certina offers some of the best value of the “big” Swiss brands. Check out the DS Action Diver Chronograph, for example: Housed in a 44.6mm stainless steel case, it features screw-down pushers and a unidirectional bezel with a fully-graduated blue elapsed-time insert. The matching blue dial, meanwhile, boasts a dual-register chronograph with 30-minute and running seconds registers, a date window at 6 o’clock and a luminous sword handset and indices. Powered by the venerable ETA/Valjoux cal. 7753 automatic movement, it ships on a stainless steel multi-link bracelet.
Diameter: 44.6mm
Movement: ETA/Valjoux cal. 7753 automatic
Water Resistance: 300m
Aquastar Airstar Chronograph 60th Anniversary Re-Edition
Aquastar has a long and storied history of producing robust, affordable tool watches — including several handsome chronograph models that collectors absolutely love. The Airstar 60th Anniversary Re-Edition, limited to 300 examples per year, is the perfect dive chronograph for someone who prefers a smaller case size: Measuring 39mm in a “skin diver” form factor with a brushed case top, pump pushers and a steel dive bezel, it features a sleek black dial with vintage-style lume, a dual-register chronograph and a syringe handset. The best part? It ships with multiple strap options, including a beads-of-rice bracelet, a Tropic-style strap and a NATO.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: ETA/Valjoux 7733 automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph II
DOXA’s vast catalog of specialist dive watches has included several chronograph models over the years, but among the best is the relatively new SUB 200 C-GRAPH II: Measuring 42mm in diameter and nearly 16mm thick, it’s a large watch, to be sure — but DOXAs aren’t designed for wearing with a tuxedo! Equipped with 200m of water resistance and a matching beads-of-rice bracelet (or an FKM rubber strap), it’s designed to accompany its wearer deep under the ocean’s surface, where a fully hashed dive bezel helps compute elapsed time, decompression stops and more. (The triple-register chronograph, meanwhile, is handy for surface intervals.)
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Sellita SW-510 automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
Zodiac Sea-Chron
This modern take on a classic vintage Zodiac model is handsome, highly versatile and available in both black “reverse panda” or blue and black colorways. Its 42mm steel housing features pump pushers and a rotating dive bezel, but the dial also features a conventional tachymeter scale — plus a triple-register chronograph courtesy of the Sellita SW-510B automatic movement. Paired to a steel multi-link bracelet and water resistant to 200m, the Sea-Chron is an excellent choice for double-duty as an everyday watch.
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Sellita SW-510B automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
Vulcain Skindiver Chronograph
This obscure take on the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique never made it into serial production, but current Vulcain owner Guillaume Laidet managed to resurrect it to spectacular effect. Like the Aquastar Airstar, it features a smaller 39.7mm skin diver-type case with a brushed case top and pump pushers. Unlike that watch, however, its rotating bezel features not only an elapsed-time scale but also a 12-hour scale — which is handy for tracking a second time zone — while its dial is packed with a tachymeter scale, a decimal scale and a dual-register chronograph with the first three minutes of its 30-minute register delineated in orange.
Diameter: 39.7mm
Movement: ETA/Valjoux cal. 7753 automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
Sinn 201 Arktis II
Few companies specialize in uncompromising tool watches and unique technologies like German manufacturer Sinn. The 201 Arktis II is a case in point: Its 43mm steel case boasts screw-down pushers and 300m of water resistance, while the inside of the watch is filled with inert gas to prevent fogging. The handsome blue dial boasts a triple-register chronograph with a day-date display at 3 o’clock — a tell-tale sign of the workhorse ETA/Valjoux 7750 automatic ticking away inside. (Interestingly, it ships on a leather strap, but a Sinn-branded silicone strap or steel bracelet can be ordered as an aftermarket option.)
Diameter: 43mm
Movement: ETA/Valjoux 7750 automatic
Water Resistance: 300m
Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono
Developed in partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing, the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono is technically a yachting watch — but that doesn’t mean it isn’t ideal for divers. Made of black carbon composite and featuring a titanium crown and pushers, it features the brand’s manufacture cal. MT5813 automatic movement powering a dual-register chronograph with date window. The 120-click unidirectional dive bezel, meanwhile, allows for easy tracking of elapsed time at depth, while the blue fabric strap with self-gripping fastening system is a pleasure to wear.
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Tudor cal. MT5813 automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
Marathon 46MM CSAR
Marathon’s specialist dive chronograph features both tritium and Maraglo illumination, making it perfect for nighttime dives. Also: It’s built like an absolute tank, with 46mm of stainless steel, dual screw-down pushers, an enormous crown, a highly grippable dive bezel flanking a dial with three chronograph registers, a day-date display, a luminous syringe handset and an outer decimal scale. Paired to a matching steel multi-link bracelet and equipped with 300m of water resistance, this ETA/Valjoux 7750-powered diver is one of the toughest tool watches around.
Diameter: 46mm
Movement: ETA/Valjoux 7750 automatic
Water Resistance: 300m
Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph
If you’re on the lookout for a dive chronograph that’s downright luxurious, look no further than the handsome SeaQ Chronograph from Glashütte Original. Measuring 43.2mm in a skin diver-type profile with a prominent crown, pump pushers and a rotating bezel with a black elapsed-time insert, it features a stark white dial with dual chronograph registers, applied indices and the brand’s signature outsized date display above 6 o’clock. Powered by the Glashütte Original cal. 37-23 automatic movement, it comes on a black rubber strap, orange textile strap or a stainless steel multi-link bracelet.
Diameter: 43.2mm
Movement: Glashütte Original cal. 37-23 automatic
Water Resistance: 300m
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
The chronograph versions of Omega’s Seamaster Diver 300M are some of the most refined dive chronos on the market. The ref. 210.60.44.51.03.001 in particular — with its two-tone titanium/tantalum/Sedna Gold mix — is to die for: At 44mm wide with screw-down pushers and a matching multi-link bracelet, it features a beautiful blue ceramic “wave” dial with a running seconds register, a combination 12-hour and 60-minute register, a central chronograph seconds hand and a date window above 6 o’clock. The Omega cal. 9900 automatic movement, meanwhile, includes a special time zone function that allows one to jump the hour hand to quickly adjust the time zone.
Diameter: 44mm
Movement: Omega cal. 9900 automatic
Water Resistance: 300m
Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph
This 18K rose gold dive chronograph is for those who prefer their tool watches with a bit of, ahem, bling. Still packed with plenty of utilitarian features — 300m of water resistance, a comfortable blue rubber strap, screw-down pushers, a unidirectional dive bezel, etc. — it boasts a handsome blue dial in a grained texture with applied indices, a triple-register chronograph and a small date window above 6 o’clock. Powered by the Ulysse Nardin cal. UN-150 automatic movement, it’s sure to turn heads on the dive boat!
Diameter: 44mm
Movement: Ulysse Nardin cal. UN-150 automatic
Water Resistance: 300m
Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition
If you’re the type of watch collector who prefers his timepieces to come with more than just implied adventure, then the huge Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition is for you. When you snag this handsome, 47mm titanium monster — complete with flyback and “time to target” countdown functionality, plus a whopping 500m of water resistance — you also sign yourself up for a bit of fun with Italian naval aviation, with whom you’ll get to tool around Puglia. (Helicopters may or may not be involved. As they should be for $68,300!)
Diameter: 47mm
Movement: Panerai cal. P.9100/R
Water Resistance: 500m
Meet your guide
Oren Hartov
Oren Hartov writes about watches — and occasionally menswear, design, travel and other things — for InsideHook and other publications. He tries to blend his deep love of history with a fascination with horology, focusing on military watches, tool watches and the beautiful dress watches of the mid-20th century. A gigging musician, SCUBA diver and military veteran, he has a particular love for purpose-built timepieces such as the Rolex Submariner or Omega Speedmaster — but feels just at home writing about an elegant Patek Philippe Calatrava.
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