Originally designed for wartime use, scuba diving took off as a recreational sport in the early 1950s. Those with the means and the time to engage in subaquatic recreation required a few pieces of crucial kit in order to get started, one of which was a waterproof watch.
Large, established brands such as Rolex and Omega readily stepped into this space, designing dedicated deep-diving models such as the Submariner and Seamaster. But not every customer had need of a relatively expensive, high-spec timepiece that used proprietary technology. Moreover, many other people expressed a desire for waterproof watches — from swimmers to skin divers, also known as free divers, who skipped the scuba apparatus and solely relied on lung power for controlled aquatic descents — even if it wasn’t necessary to track things such as bottom time and decompression stops.
Unfortunately, many of the smaller watch brands couldn’t necessarily afford to develop their own cases, movements, dials and the like. A convenient solution came in the form of manufacturers such as Ervin Piquerez S.A. (EPSA). Based in Bassecourt, Switzerland, this family-owned business manufactured several distinct case types that were eventually adapted by players large and small throughout the watch industry.
What Is a “Skin Diver” Watch?
One of these cases has come to be known as the “skin diver” type. Featuring a compact, slightly curved and brushed steel surface with semi-integrated lugs, no crown guards, a rotating bidirectional timing bezel, an acrylic crystal and a screw-down caseback, this case offered 100 to 200 meters of water resistance for the budding skin diver or scuba diver. Watch companies would purchase this case, fit it with either an off-the-shelf or proprietary movement and a unique dial, and market it under their own name and branding.
Through this system, manufacturers such as EPSA and Squale were responsible for hundreds of compelling, largely affordable designs for all manner of brands, allowing a wider range of enthusiasts access to a waterproof tool watch. And while these “skin divers” didn’t necessarily boast the specifications of models from the likes of Rolex, Omega or Blancpain, they nevertheless constituted much of the dive watch production of the late 1950s, 1960s and 1970s.
Today, the skin diver has returned to the fore as a retro-inspired style adopted by both microbrands and medium-sized watch companies. From sub-$1,000 models fitted with Japanese movements to luxury divers spec’d with automatic Swiss calibers, these contemporary skin divers still provide a neat alternative to the Submariner, Seamaster and Fifty Fathoms — though many of them are no longer necessarily the affordable fare they once were. In fact, if you want to spend five figures on a skin diver, there’s a brand or two out there that will happily indulge you!
Largely, however, skin divers remain what they were in the mid-20th-century before the Quartz Crisis: compact, comfortable, waterproof mechanical watches with fun and funky dials and cases that will happily slip under a cuff. So if you need your next vacation watch to handle “skin diving,” swimming or even recreational scuba diving, look no further — one of the following pieces will more than do the job.
Wolbrook Watches Skindiver WT Professional Tool-Watch
Resurrected from its Quartz Crisis-induced death, American-founded Wolbrook offers contemporary takes on its mid-20th-century back catalog, including numerous skin divers. The Skindiver WT Professional Tool-Watch, based on a model from the 1960s, adds a handy world-time bezel to the dive watch proceedings, giving frequent travelers a convenient way to track the time across the globe. Powered by the Japanese-made Miyota cal. 8315 automatic, it looks every part the vintage piece, with green-colored C7 Super-LumiNova and an arrow-shaped handset. And at $501, it’s in line with the spirit of the original skin divers — namely, to provide an affordable entry point into waterproof tool watches.
- Diameter: 40mm
- Case Height: 13mm
- Movement: Miyota cal. 8315 automatic
- Water Resistance: 120m
Alsta Nautoscaph
If you recognize the Alsta name, it’s likely because this is the brand worn by Richard Dreyfuss as Matt Hooper in Jaws. Since then, the resurrected company has produced numerous takes on its Nautoscaph skin diver. While it may measure larger and thicker than others on this list at 40mm by 16.2mm (including the crystal), it also boasts 300m of water resistance — no less than the average high-end dive watch offered at a significantly higher price point. Available in several dial colors and in either steel or bronze, the Nautoscaph is powered by the Seiko NH35A automatic movement and comes paired to either a steel bracelet or a handmade Italian leather strap.
- Diameter: 40mm
- Case Height: 16.2mm
- Movement: Seiko NH35A automatic
- Water Resistance: 300m
Squale Super-Squale Big Arrows Blue Bracelet
Registered in 1959, Squale was one of the original manufacturers of skin diver cases for other brands. However, beginning in 1962 Squale also began selling watches under its own name, which it continues to do today. The Super-Squale Big Arrows Blue Bracelet offers all the typical skin diver components in a handsome package with a Swiss-made movement at a price that won’t break the bank. Measuring a vintage-inspired 38mm in brushed stainless steel, it features a light-blue sunray dial with shark-tooth indices, vintage-colored lume, and a luminous broad arrow handset. Paired to a cool beads-of-rice bracelet and powered by the Sellita SW200 Élaboré-grade automatic movement, it looks every part the 1960s classic.
- Diameter: 38mm
- Case Height: 12mm
- Movement: Sellita cal. SW200 Élaboré automatic
- Water Resistance: 200m
Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Skin Diver
The Zodiac Sea Wolf was one of the original array of dedicated scuba diving watches that cropped up in 1953. Still produced in myriad iterations by Zodiac — now owned by Fossil — it’s perhaps most appealing in its cool skin diver guise, with a 39mm steel case and automatic movement from STP. Water resistant to 200m, it features a handsome blue dial with luminous triangular hour plots and a matching dauphine handset. The bezel may be unidirectional, but glance at it from afar — especially on its blue rubber Tropic strap, a type that often shipped on period dive watches from the 1960s and ‘70s — and you might just mistake it for a vintage original.
- Diameter: 39mm
- Case Height: 12.7mm
- Movement: STP1-11 automatic
- Water Resistance: 200m
Aquastar Model 60 Re-Edition
Some of the coolest dive watches of the past 15 years have come from brands that dive watch enthusiast Rick Marei has resurrected, not least of which are those from Aquastar. The company’s Model 60 Re-Edition is a handsome reimagining of a skin diver model from 1957. Measuring 37mm in stainless steel and accompanied by a NATO strap, Tropic rubber dive strap or a steel beads-of-rice bracelet, it features a steel count-up bezel with individual gradations for the first 20 minutes; a black dial with luminous dot and dash indices, a date window and a luminous sword handset; and the Swiss-made Sellita cal. SW200 Élaboré automatic movement. Measuring just 11mm tall, it’s also perfect for everyday wear.
- Diameter: 37mm
- Case Height: 11mm
- Movement: Sellita cal. SW200 Élaboré automatic
- Water Resistance: 200m
Vulcain Skindiver Nautique
While Vulcain may be best known amongst enthusiasts for its Cricket alarm watch, the Swiss firm also makes all manner of dress watches, chronographs and divers. The Skindiver Nautique, a modern reissue, is an excellent choice for somebody who wants a serious waterproof watch that doesn’t sacrifice looks. Available in both subdued and loud dial colors, it comes in both steel as well as yellow gold-colored PVD cases. Vintage enthusiasts are well served by executions with vintage-colored lume, while those who prefer a cleaner aesthetic have the option of executions with white printing/lume. Each is powered by a Swiss movement and comes on a wide range of available straps.
- Diameter: 38mm
- Case Height: 12.2mm
- Movement: ETA cal. 2824-2 automatic
- Water Resistance: 200m
Airain Sous-Marine Re-Edition Lollipop
This might look like a note-for-note reproduction of a 1950s watch, but thoughtful touches ensure adherence to modern standards. This Airain’s 37.5mm steel case, for one, is fitted with a 120-click, black PVD-coated unidirectional dive bezel with white engraving, a double-domed sapphire crystal with antireflective coating, and an engraved caseback featuring a diver motif, while its dial is coated with “light old radium” Super-LumiNova and features a black-and-red “roulette” date wheel and a “lollipop” seconds hand. Unlike other watches on this list, it ships with a cool Fixoflex steel bracelet and is powered by the G100 automatic movement from La Joux-Perret. Water resistant to 200m, this is a significant chunk of watch for roughly $2,200.
- Diameter: 37.5mm
- Case Height: 10.45mm
- Movement: La Joux-Perret cal. G100 automatic
- Water Resistance: 200m
Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition
Perhaps the most aesthetically and horologically compelling entry on this list is the Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition from French brand Yema. Based upon the company’s own cal. CMM.20 automatic micro-rotor movement with ultra-thin construction and a 70-hour power reserve, it features a dark grey dial with oversized, applied indices overlaid at the cardinal positions with cool stylized Arabic indices. The “faded ghost” sapphire bezel insert maintains the same sun-kissed feel as the dial, with white printing and dot hash marks at each minute. An awesome “scales” bracelet and sapphire caseback complete the package, giving the impression of a watch that should otherwise cost a multiple of its $2,249 price point.
- Diameter: 39mm
- Case Height: 10mm
- Movement: Yema cal. CMM.20 automatic
- Water Resistance: 300m
Oris Divers Date
The revamped Divers Date, inspired by 1960s Oris dive watch models, is a luxurious (yet still distinctly attainable) take on the skin diver. Available in several compelling colorways — including a cool taupe-sand color rarely seen on dive watches — it features a 39mm brushed steel case with a unidirectional dive bezel and ceramic insert; an anti-reflective, domed sapphire crystal; and a signed, screw-down crown. Its dial, featuring an open minute track, applied indices, luminous sword hands and a 6 o’clock date window, is highly legible, while a stainless steel rivet-style bracelet and the automatic Oris ca. 733-1 movement round out the impressive feature set. Water resistant to 200m, this is a perfectly capable tool watch platform — but its good looks mean that it can likewise accompany more formal wear as well.
- Diameter: 39mm
- Case Height: 12.1mm
- Movement: Oris cal. 733-1 automatic
- Water Resistance: 200m
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SJE101
SPECS:
Diameter: 39.5mm
Case Height: 12.3mm
Movement: Seiko cal. 6L37 automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
Glashütte Original SeaQ
For someone who enjoys skin diver aesthetics — slimmer case, no crown guards, thin bezel — but still wants a “luxury” watch experience, the Glashütte Original SeaQ checks all the right boxes. Particularly fetching in its green-dial execution, this modern take on a vintage G.O. model clocks in at a modern 39.5mm and 12.15mm tall but boasts an in-house movement, the Glashütte Original cal. 39-11 automatic with 40 hours of power reserve and a skeletonized rotor with double-G symbol. Available with either a solid steel caseback or a sapphire caseback through which one can view the movement, this 200m water-resistant piece features the oversized Arabic and pointer handset of many ‘60s skin diver models, making it an excellent choice both inside and out.
- Diameter: 39.5mm
- Case Height: 12.15mm
- Movement: Glashütte Original cal. 39-11 automatic
- Water Resistance: 200m
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