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I’m a huge black-and-white film buff. Give me a 1940s screwball comedy any day of the week: The rapid-fire dialogue, the surprisingly progressive occupations of the female protagonists (for the period, anywho) and the fashion. Specifically, the wardrobes of the male characters. (During a recent re-watch of Howard Hawks’ His Girl Friday, I was enamored by Cary Grant’s well-tailored suits.) However, there is one particular article of clothing synonymous with leading men of the ’40s, ’50s, and ’60s: The trench coat.
I mean, has any man ever been hotter than a trench coat-clad Humphrey Bogart on a foggy tarmac telling Ingrid Bergman to get on that plane at the end of Casablanca? Or Audrey Hepburn and George Peppard in matching trenches sharing a passionate kiss in the pouring rain in Breakfast at Tiffany’s? I think not.
If you don’t already own one, a trench should be at the top of your to-buy list right now, especially as we enter peak kissing-on-the-sidewalk-in-the-rain season. But just don’t take it from me, take it from InsideHook’s style editor Paolo Sandoval, who says belted outerwear is poised to have a big year. The simple addition of a belt adds “structure and sophistication” to an already strong coat game, per Sandoval, to which I agree. Who is a leading man if not structured and sophisticated?
Though, if you’re not feeling the strapped, tie look, the modern, casually open look with no belt — like this slightly oversized option from Madewell — is also a suitable option for rainy days. I might even prefer this laidback style a bit more than the traditional belt look, as it combines the well-tailored character of the classic style with a more rugged, relaxed look for an effortlessly sexy vibe.
Beyond its timelessly handsome aura, though, the trench coat is, of course, a practical article of clothing. There’s a reason why the trench is a long-held spring-style staple: spring showers don’t stand a chance; raindrops will seamlessly ripple off your protective, water-repellent layer without penetrating the ‘fit underneath.
Whether that outfit is a nice sweater with slacks, a matching sweatsuit, a tailored suit or a simple T-shirt and jeans, the warm, long, lightweight layer has an impressive ability to elevate any spring outfit you throw on. Before, you were just a man running around town in a short-sleeve and Levi’s jeans. Now, you’re a worldly leading man on the way to sweep the love of your life off her feet. Or tell her to jump on a plane and leave you forever. What you decide to do in your trench coat is completely up you — as long as you don’t flash anyone.
My Favorite Trench Coats for Men
A very affordable trench coat style from Quince, this organic cotton layer is fully lined and coated with a water-resistant finish. You can choose to wear it open or utilize the full button-front closure for protection when the weather gets hairy.
Uniqlo’s very modern take on the trench coat is another affordable option. It features a relaxed silhouette and a clean-looking front flap design with a waterproof fastener to keep rain out.
Humphrey Bogart on a budget (but without looking like a budget Humphrey Bogart). This second option from Quince features all of the classic accouterments of a traditional trench coat: a double-breasted button-front closure, notched lapels and epaulets and a removable belt.
Crafted from Italian Twill, Madewell’s take on the trench is a slightly oversized, versatile outer layer you can throw over anything for a nonchalant, but still style-forward, look.
If you’re going to invest in a pricier coat, let it be Buck Mason’s vintage-inspired trench.
Now, this is leading man attire. If you have leading man funds, of course.
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