Don’t Call AYR a “Basics” Brand, They Prefer “No-Nonsense”

We spoke with Brice Pattison, AYR's VP of menswear, about what he learned at J.Crew and Todd Snyder, and why a “focused” brand is better than an “endless” one

January 22, 2025 1:28 pm EST
Two men wearing clothes designed by AYR. We spoke with the brand's VP of menswear, Brice Pattison.
"My challenge as a designer is to ensure the garments we make have a connection to how men are living at this moment," says Pattison.
AYR

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Elevated, accessible menswear brands have been flourishing in recent years, and mostly I am all for it. Many of these upstarts offer well-constructed foundational garments at reasonable prices. The downside, however, is oversaturation, and it can be difficult to weed through the countless brands that seem to pop up on the reg. When scrolling on social media, you’ve likely encountered ads like this: some rugged guy hyping an “[Insert Kitschy Name] Jacket,” boasting about the seam construction, the versatile cuffs, how they trialed 100 versions to get the perfect silhouette. But in reality, it’s just a classic cotton bomber jacket.

Some brands nail elevated foundational pieces, while others pat themselves on the back for what’s essentially basic stuff. The great ones, though, know what makes a quality garment, respect the history of menswear (often rooted in military heritage), and know that most guys simply want to look good and feel current while investing in clothing with timeless appeal. Buck Mason gets it, as does Todd Snyder, and so does AYR.

For the uninitiated, AYR (short for “All Year Round”) is an American brand that deals in versatile essentials, filling out your closet with everything from outerwear to knits, shirting, khakis, tees, leather jackets and their cult-favorite denim. While their women’s line has been a staple for years, AYR introduced their menswear collection a little over two years ago under the guidance of Brice Pattison, the brand’s VP of menswear. Pattison brings serious pedigree to the table, having honed his craft at J.Crew before joining Todd Snyder, where he played a pivotal role as design director. His experience at arguably the best American menswear designer working today and one of the industry’s most beloved institutions set the groundwork for the effortlessly chic designs he’s now crafting at AYR. The design team is fanatical about fit and fabric, following a philosophy that champions quality over quantity and longevity over fleeting trends.

AYR
The AYR Casino, a wool jacket that combines chore coat construction with double-breasted blazer styling.
AYR

AYR’s menswear is intentional in every way, from its reference points and design ethos to the fabrics and materials used in each piece. You’ll first notice the names: The Normie, for example, which is anything but a basic jean. It’s a straight-leg silhouette that feels current yet timeless, and is available in a fantastic medium-blue wash (among other colors). The Big Softie reimagines the shaggy sweater with a machine-washable twist for convenience, elevated by a thicker mariner collar that lends it character. The Scrambler, a flight jacket made with small-batch Japanese cotton twill, nods to military history while being versatile for today. Across the collection, their shirting stands out for its elegance and ease, from chambray staples to the railroad-stripe overshirt. Many pieces even blur the lines between staples, with shirts that double as chore jackets but wear like cardigans. Behind the scenes, there’s a focus on sourcing from the best mills for fabrics, and all of AYR’s denim, a pillar of the brand, is made in Los Angeles.

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Much of AYR’s success boils down to the fact that these garments are approachable. They resonate with discerning menswear aficionados and those simply looking for a few style upgrades. Foundational? Yes. Basic? No. And, crucially, you just feel good wearing them. It’s as if the brand distilled workwear and military heritage, added Parisian panache, infused NYC edge, and finished it with touch of California cool.

We recently had a chance to chat with Pattison about growing AYR’s menswear division, how his work at J.Crew and Todd Snyder influences his work, and his vision for what men should be stocking in their closets.

AYR
AYR VP of Menswear Brice Pattison
AYR

This interview has been edited and condensed for length and clarity.

InsideHook: Tell us how the name AYR first came about and how it informs the menswear line.

Brice Pattison: All Year Round is about long-term thinking. We introduce new ideas twice a year, but our approach is a far cry from new “collections.” Instead, we think about the new ideas that excite us and how we believe they can benefit customers and our business. “New stuff” for the sake of making new stuff is unfortunately rife in our industry, and frankly, it seems ridiculous to me. When we look in our closet, we hopefully have clothing we’ve owned, loved and worn for many years. AYR will be the same. 

How do you balance making timeless garments that are also modern and forward-thinking?

I love the classics. Few outfits rival what a white tee, blue jeans and leather jacket does. At our core, that’s what AYR is. My challenge as a designer is to ensure the garments we make have a connection to how men are living at this moment. Take our Casino jacket: It’s a double-breasted blazer, but it’s also a “chore coat” of sorts, with pockets that carry our giant phones and all our other stuff. (The chore being: answer your emails.) Or look at our pants: Nearly all our designs feature waist tabs so that a guy can improve the fit of his trousers instantly without needing to wear a belt or call his tailor.

Over the past several years, there has been a movement toward accessible yet elevated garments for guys. Where does AYR fit into that, and what differentiates it?

I like to think of AYR as no-nonsense, but not minimalist, not basics. The clothing is anchored in classic American sportswear, but the modern aspects of Parisian and Scandinavian style culture also inspire me. I’m not interested in just creating replicas of old clothing. It’s important that AYR is free to explore fabrics and design beyond what’s common and typical.

AYR
The Normie jean in gravel paired with a black Big Softie sweater.
AYR

You cut your teeth at J.Crew, which has gone through several reinventions, and, of course, Todd Snyder. How did those experiences inform your designs at AYR?

I hold immense gratitude for my time at J.Crew as well as Todd Snyder, and all the people who taught me so much. The late aughts for men at J.Crew was nothing short of a renaissance moment for the brand. I had the privilege of a front-row seat while Mickey Drexler, Jenna Lyons, Todd Snyder and Frank Muytjens set out to redefine a classic American brand. To then go from the scale and support of J.Crew to the opposite — freedom and flexibility, which was Todd Snyder’s pre-launch in 2010 — was immensely broadening for me as a young designer. The “Design Department” at Todd Snyder was Todd and me, and it was, without exaggeration, where I learned how to take an idea and realize it on my own. Thinking about both experiences, I can’t imagine a better foundation for the work I do today.

Tell us a little about how you source your textiles, what mills you use and why the denim is made in L.A.

I get tremendous pleasure from finding high-quality, beautiful and versatile textiles. At AYR, that perspective informs our process, so that each piece achieves our vision of aesthetics and function. This approach takes us around the globe, from England to Italy to Turkey to China to the USA to Peru and beyond, in search of mills that allow us to create great and timeless clothing. 

Denim is a core element at AYR, and a high degree of oversight is needed to achieve jeans with beautiful washes. By manufacturing and washing our denim in Los Angeles, we benefit from our L.A. factory’s decades of skill and expertise, and we’re lucky to be present for weekly in-person meetings to ensure every pair of AYR jeans is of the highest consistent quality.

When I think of AYR, I see easy, cool menswear essentials designed very well. It feels like most of a guy’s wardrobe could be AYR and would never go out of style.

That’s very kind of you to say, and no surprise, I agree. AYR is not fussy stuff, and it’s not trendy stuff. It’s hardwearing, versatile, modern clothing, and — I think this is a valuable point to make — easy to shop for online. Too many brands have too many things. The endless scroll. How does a guy shop with confidence? I don’t mean to suggest that shopping is hard, but it’s like the classic Harvard jam assortment study: endless isn’t better; focused is. 

AYR The Scrambler
The Scrambler in leather.
AYR

What makes AYR approachable to many men in your view?

The designs at AYR are, more or less, straightforward takes on the classics. Our customers know or have an idea of what something is before even trying it on. This approach is also applied to how we style the products during our photoshoots. Simple, understandable, yet thoughtful. I want a guy to see an AYR model and see himself in the outfit.

I love some of the garments’ names, like the Normie for the jeans or the Big Softie for the classic sweater. Is that part of the approachability?

“Voice” is a big part of the AYR brand and, thus, product names. Being a predominantly online company, names are one more way for us to engage our customers and build an identity behind a style. Our intention is for designs to endure for a long time. Names with distinct characters create a stronger touchpoint for customers.

Many of the garments are hybrids or take inspiration from a few types of clothing, like the denim shirt that wears like a cardigan or the blazer that wears like a chore jacket. What inspired that approach?

I find an outsized satisfaction with versatility that doesn’t sacrifice quality. This idea comes out in how I stock our pantry (I’m an avid home cook) and how I’m an unwavering dual-sport motorcycle evangelist. So, when designing, I’m thinking about, “What does this item do for me?” Does it make me look cooler, does it make me feel super comfortable, does it make getting shit done easier, does it dress me up and give me confidence? When I come across an idea that perhaps melds two or more of these principles, I feel I’m making something special of great value. For instance, a jacket that’s easy to wear (unstructured, looks great in a relaxed fit, doesn’t need to be ironed, etc.) paired with a sophisticated detail (double-breasted, a generous lapel and collar) to me is “Wow, this is so useful.” 

If you had to choose five pieces for a guy to start his foundational wardrobe from AYR, what would they be?

1. The Normie jeans: Super classic straight fit that looks right on a guy regardless of if he is 18 or 80.

2. The Original T: Pima cotton is the real deal. I’m proud of ours for its fabric and fit, specifically our sleeve length (which probably sounds silly, but getting the sleeve right is critical).

3. The Big Softie sweater: When designing this, my challenge was that I wanted a soft, cozy sweater that was a breeze to care for, i.e., machine washable. We sell out of this sweater often because it really is fucking great.

4. The Dive shirt in denim: The Dive is our overshirt style that’s as if a cardigan and a heavy shirt had a baby. This may seem like an insignificant innovation, but by taking that shirt we all know, moving the pockets down and making them bigger, the shirt is much more functional. The pockets hold ALL your shit, yet it still wears as a shirt. And you can sit down to a meal and not feel like you’ve still got a jacket on.

5. The Scrambler jacket in leather: I’m a huge leather jacket advocate for all guys. A great classic leather jacket has so much attitude but will last a lifetime while developing the most incredible patina. Ours is inspired by a more obscure ‘40s military style, the M-421A.

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