Levi’s Is Bolstering Its New Japanese-Made Sub-Label

The jeans giant's Blue Tab collection has been quietly expanding

Jeans and a top from Levi's Blue Tab, the new Japanese-made sub-label
Not familiar with Levi's Blue Tab? Let's change that.
Levi's

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When it comes to denim, “Japanese-made” is the only superlative that matters, as least according to certain menswear circles. The label has become a sort of shorthand for quality assurance, and for good reason; the craftsmanship and general caliber of denim coming out of Japan in the last few decades — championed by brands like Kapital and, more recently, Auralee — has led to an earned reputation of offering the best jeans money can buy.

It came as little surprise, then, when Levi’s announced Blue Tab, a highly exclusive and premium batch of made-in-Japan denim wares. The original 11-piece capsule, which dropped back in April, featured iconic Levi’s designs like the Type I Trucker and 505 Jeans, masterfully designed from proprietary, Kaihara-milled fabric, and was promptly snatched up by selvedge obsessives.

Levi’s Blue Tab Is Introducing a Whole New Line of Japanese-Made Denim
The new sub-label is focusing on premium, handmade Japanese jeans

There was some concern that Levi’s Blue Tab might be a one-and-done special project, but it seems that there are bigger plans for the sub-label than a one-off drop. The brand has been quietly expanding the scope of the collection in recent months with a range of menswear-coded jean and apparel styles, including with a transitional batch consisting of staples that seem tailor-made for the upcoming seasonal shift.


New to Blue Tab is the Anchor Jean, a straight-leg, relaxed-fit 100% cotton jean that sits at the waist and is cut for optimal ankle stack — a similar style to the previously launched Marker Loose Jeans, but with noticeably less structure for a more casual fit. Levi’s 502 Taper Jeans have also received the made-in-Japan treatment; woven on shuttle looms, the selvedge denim staple improves on the classic formula by adding just a hint of stretch to the mix, and serves as a welcome addition for fans of a slimmer leg.

It’s not just jeans that Blue Tab is dangling. The hallowed Type I and Type III Jackets are also included in the mix, combining all of the historical details — branded buttons, V-stitching, trucker-esque crop — with crispy Japanese denim, to mouthwatering effect. Staple tops a la selvedge work shirts and oversized cotton tees round out the collection. 

The Levi’s Blue Tab collection currently ranges from $58 to $348, and is available to shop here; along with the newer releases, there’s still a smattering of styles from the original drop to be had. We imagine the brand will be dropping more Japanese-made grails in the near future.

Meet your guide

Paolo Sandoval

Paolo Sandoval

Paolo Sandoval is Style Editor at InsideHook, having previously contributed to Valet Mag. An expert when it comes to vintage denim, soccer kits and tailoring, Paolo reports on style, grooming, wellness, menswear trends, celebrity, media and other pursuits tangential to looking and feeling like a million bucks, and is the voice behind the InsideHook fashion newsletter, The Stitch. You can reach him at psandoval@insidehook.com.
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