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At InsideHook, we’re admittedly scent-obsessed — and we’ve covered (and will keep covering) all sorts of spritz-worthy stories, from seasonal standouts to deep dives into note families. Still, the world of personal fragrance can seem overwhelming. There’s the etiquette, the jargon and the “how do I even pick one?” factor. Take “sillage,” for example — how the fragrance lingers in the air when worn. If a cologne has strong sillage, it leaves a strong aromatic footprint. “Projection” is about how far the scent radiates from your skin, while “longevity” refers to how long that projection sticks around. And then there’s my favorite: the “dry down.” It’s where various notes come to life after top and heart notes dry down, exemplifying how complex fragrances evolve throughout the day. It’s one of the most fascinating aspects of perfumery and its artistry.
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2025 is shaping up to be a stellar year for scentsWe tapped two of the best olfactory creatives in the game — Carlos Huber, a fragrance developer and founder of Arquiste, and Daniel Patrick Giles, founder of Perfumehead — to graciously lend their expertise for our cologne primer. Huber and Giles are masters of their craft, and their respective houses are among the most renowned in the market. Here, they break down what you need to know about choosing, wearing and understanding scents. As you’ll see, they align on the fundamentals, just with their distinct spin. Whether you’re just getting into colognes or already have a curated shelf, the guide below will help you navigate the ever-expanding world of fragrances and find the scents that suit you.
InsideHook: Can you briefly explain different types of fragrance concentrations — like cologne, EDT, EDP and parfum?
Carlos Huber: The difference lies in the concentration of aromatic oils. Eau de Cologne (EDC) is the lightest, typically around 2–5% — crisp yet fleeting. Eau de Toilette (EDT) contains 5–15%, offering freshness with a shorter wear time. Eau de Parfum (EDP) has 15–20% and balances projection with longevity. Parfum or Extrait de Parfum is the most concentrated — usually over 20% — and more intimate, richer and longer-lasting.
Daniel Patrick Giles: Fragrance concentrations refer to the percentage of perfume oil, which affects how strong and long-lasting a scent is. Eau de Cologne is 2–4% — light, citrusy, and refreshing, often used as a quick splash. Eau de Toilette is 5–10% — crisp and clean, ideal for daytime. Eau de Parfum is usually 10–20% — more concentrated and longer-lasting. Extrait de Parfum is 25–30% — the highest concentration. Deep, complex, with strong sillage and a more intimate projection.
How should I apply cologne, and how much is too much?
DG: Less is more. I like to build up slowly and, most importantly, don’t overspray. Start with two to three sprays and let the scent settle on your skin. There’s an art of subtlety when it comes to cologne. Remember, you’re not scenting a room. You’re wearing it on your skin. The goal is to draw someone in, not overwhelm them.
CH: Fragrance should be discovered, not announced. Two to four sprays are more than enough — ideally on pulse points where the skin is warm and active. If you can smell your fragrance constantly, it’s probably too much. Let it whisper, not shout.
Where on my body should I spray cologne?
CH: Apply to pulse points — wrists, the base of the neck, or even the inner elbows. These areas emit heat, which helps diffuse the fragrance beautifully. I also enjoy a light mist over clothing, but only after testing to ensure no staining.
DG: Apply to pulse points: neck (the sexiest spot), wrists (don’t rub them together — it breaks down the top notes), chest, heart chakra. These areas emit heat, helping to diffuse the scent naturally.
How long does cologne typically last on skin?
DG: It depends on the fragrance concentration and your skin. Scent doesn’t like dry skin — moisturized, supple skin holds fragrance longer. On hydrated skin, a well-formulated scent can last all day.
CH: It depends on concentration and composition. Citrus-heavy scents fade faster, while resinous, amber and woody notes linger longer. On average, an EDP lasts six to eight hours. Your skin’s pH, hydration and even the weather can all affect longevity.
What’s the difference between top, middle and base notes?
CH: Top notes are the first impression — often bright, fleeting and volatile (think citrus, herbs). The heart or middle notes emerge next, forming the soul of the fragrance — florals, spices, green facets. Base notes anchor the scent — woods, resins, musks — long-lasting and evocative. A well-composed fragrance is a narrative that unfolds over time.
DG: Fragrances unfold in three acts: Top Notes — the opening, bright and fresh, fade in 15–30 minutes. Middle Notes (Heart) — the soul of the scent, last a few hours. Base Notes — the anchor, rich and long-lasting. Together, they tell an olfactive story: top draws you in, middle builds emotion, base leaves a memory.
How do I choose a cologne that fits my personality or lifestyle?
DG: Beginner tips? Ask: What’s the mood I want to create? (fresh, sensual, mysterious, sexy). Trust your gut; how does it make you feel? Think about where you’ll wear it. Always test before you buy. Notice how others respond. Look for a scent that’s modern, wearable and has a little twist.
CH: Think of fragrance as olfactory clothing. If you’re drawn to minimalist style, you might enjoy crisp, green or musky scents. A more extroverted or expressive personality might lean toward florals, resins, woody or balsamic scents. And test on skin — paper can only tell you so much. Your skin chemistry reveals the full story.
Why might a cologne smell different on someone else than on me?
DG: Fragrance is personal chemistry. Four key factors affect how it wears: body chemistry, skin type (oily skin holds scent longer), diet and climate. Heat and humidity intensify a fragrance.
CH: Your skin chemistry — pH, moisture, diet, even medications — can subtly shift how certain notes behave. This is part of the magic. Fragrance isn’t static; it’s a living dialogue between formula and wearer.
Should I switch scents with the seasons?
DG: Generally, spring: green and floral. Summer: bright, citrus, aquatic. Fall: Warm and woody. Winter: Deep and resinous — musk, incense, tonka bean, oud.
CH: Lighter notes like citrus, aquatic accords and green herbs shine in warm months. As the weather cools, turn to amber, leather, woods, spices — anything with depth and warmth. But wear what makes you feel like yourself, regardless of season.
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Citrus, Aquatic, and Fougere notes are the major warm-weather olfactory playersHow do I choose scents for different occasions?
CH: For work, go subtle — something fresh, clean, or woody. Date night: something magnetic and sensual, with a bit of depth — amber, spice, musk. For weekends, you can be playful or relaxed. Try green, aromatic or gourmand notes. Fragrance is a form of self-expression, so let context guide your mood.
DG: Think of scent as a wardrobe. Work: Subtle and clean. Date Night: Intimate and alluring. Weekend: Easy, playful or bold.
A Vetiver Cologne Is Forever in Scent Style
The fresh and unique Vetiver colognes we love.Are all fragrances unisex?
CH: Fragrance has no gender. What we perceive as masculine or feminine is often dictated by cultural conditioning. In truth, flowers can be powerful, and woods can be tender.
DG: I don’t believe in gendering scent. Let your nose guide you, not your gender. Some of our most “masculine” fragrances are best-sellers among women.
Does cologne expire, and how should I store it?
DG: A high-quality cologne evolves over time, like wine. After two or more years, some notes may shift. To preserve it, keep it away from light and heat. Store in a cool, dark place. Never leave it in the car or bathroom.
CH: Yes, though quality cologne can last years when stored properly. Keep it away from heat, light, and humidity —ideally in its box, in a drawer or cabinet. If it smells sour or the color darkens drastically, it may be time to say goodbye.
Why should someone invest in a quality fragrance?
DG: Because you’re not just buying scent — you’re investing in how you feel. Better ingredients equal better performance, complexity, and longevity. It’s self-expression that lasts.
CH: Because scent is an invisible signature — it leaves a lasting impression, marks a moment and tells your story without words. A well-crafted fragrance is created with care, utilizing rare materials and artistry. It becomes part of who you are. To me, that’s worth the investment.
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