Patek Philippe Brought the Heat for Watches & Wonders ‘25

It’s been a heck of a year for Patek Philippe, which launched its first collection in well over two decades in the form of the Cubitus in late 2024. Now, at Watches & Wonders Geneva, it debuted a slew of incredible pieces that immediately caught our attention — including one of the most insane desk clocks we’ve ever seen. From a gorgeous platinum time-only dress watch to its typically über-complicated fare, Patek is clearly on a roll, and we couldn’t be more excited about it. Here are some of the highlights.

Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27000M-001

Based on two similar models produced for American super-collectors James Ward Packard and Henry Graves Jr. in the 1920s — two men whose obsession with timepieces led them to commission increasingly sophisticated examples throughout the early 20th century in a sort of horological arch-rivalry — the Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27000M-001 is a work of stunning beauty and ingenuity. Its manually-wound Caliber 86-135 PEND S IRM Q SE movement offers 31 days of power reserve and precision of +/- 1 second per day via a constant-force regulator, while a custom-designed push-button system allows for easy and intuitive control of the piece’s settings. The clock’s housing, made of sterling silver, is adorned with beautiful green flinqué Grand Feu enamel and decorated in a rope motif. Complications include both a perpetual calendar as well as a weekly calendar, while the silver opaline dial has black transfer-printed indices.

Diameter: 164.6 x 125 x 76.73 mm
Movement: Caliber 86‑135 PEND S IRM Q SE hand-wound
Water Resistance: Humidity- and dust-protected

PATEK PHILIPPE : $1,178,350

Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication ref. 5308G-001

This is the sort of fare that defines Patek in the eyes of many: A white-gold version of a platinum-cased Grand Complication launched at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Tokyo 2023, it combines minute-repeater, split-seconds chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar complications to spectacular effect. Housed in a polished 42mm white-gold case with interchangeable solid and sapphire casebacks, it features a sunburst ice-blue dial based upon an 18K gold dial plate. The star of the show is actually the 799-component Caliber R CHR 27 PS QI movement, whose design features two patented innovations: a special wheel that prevents friction in the chronograph, and a system that eliminates energy consumption when the split-seconds function is enabled. Though the watch measures 17.71mm tall — and thus isn’t for the faint of wrist — its stupendously cool dial may well be worth the bulky price. With its smart layout mixing radial apertures, totalizers and numerous hands, it’s actually surprisingly legible.

Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Caliber R CHR 27 PS QI automatic
Water Resistance: Humidity- and dust-protected

PATEK PHILIPPE : $1,237,270

Patek Philippe Cubitus ref. 7128/1G-001 and ref. 7128/1R-001

With its integrated bracelet and rectangular case silhouette, the Cubitus takes clear inspiration from the Nautilus, the luxury sports watch classic designed by Gérald Genta that debuted in 1976. While the steel, two-tone and complicated launch references all measured 45mm in diameter, two new references — one in white gold and one in rose gold — offer a much more wearable 40mm silhouette. Rounded edges and satin and polished finishes help diffuse the square-ish shape, while the horizontally embossed dial patterns in sunburst blue (white gold) and sunburst brown (rose gold) look elegant indeed with their applied baton hour markers, framed date window and luminescent baton handset. Offering 30m of water resistance, the Cubitus doesn’t fulfill the same luxury sports watch brief of the Nautilus — then again, with its super-thin 8.5mm case, it doesn’t need to. Powered by the automatic Caliber 26-330 S C movement with an embossed 21K gold rotor, it’s much more about day-to-day elegance — especially in its rose gold configuration.

Diameter: 40mm
Movement: Caliber 26-330 S C automatic
Water Resistance: 30m

PATEK PHILIPPE : $76,590

Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6196P-001

A new time-only Calatrava variant is always cause for celebration, and the new ref. 6196P-001 is no exception. Measuring 38mm in a round platinum case with satin-finished flanks and a beveled bezel, it combines aspects of the best of vintage 20th-century Patek dress watches with more modern features. The rose-gilt opaline dial, with anthracite white-gold applied obus-style hour markers, leaf hands and sub-seconds is a thing of beauty, while the Patek Philippe Caliber 30-255 PS hand-wound movement is visible via a sapphire caseback. A cool Easter egg is the tiny diamond embedded in the bottom of the case flank indicating platinum construction, while the entire package is finished with a chocolate-brown alligator leather strap with a platinum pin buckle. For Calatrava fans, there could scarcely be a more exciting release in 2025.