For someone in the market for distinctive aesthetics, excellent craftsmanship and a unique look that’s sure to turn heads, an enamel-dial watch could be the perfect choice. Often rendered in deeply-saturated color and given an attractive finish in a special pattern, enamel allows a watchmaker to customize an otherwise pedestrian timekeeping device into a wearable piece of art. But what exactly is an enamel dial, and what even is enamel, anyway?
Merriam-Webster defines the term as “a usually opaque vitreous composition applied by fusion to the surface of metal, glass or pottery.” So, it’s something semi-transparent that covers something else, like the hard outer layer of your teeth. With respect to watch dials, enamel is typically applied to a metal base layer via the fusion of silica-based powders, a flux agent such as sodium carbonate and a stabilizing agent like lead oxide. All of these are combined and fired multiple times in a furnace at a temperature north of roughly 800 degrees Celsius (though the specific temperature varies depending on a host of factors, such as materials and process). During the firing stage, the enamel layers are often polished (“lapped”) to remove air bubbles and to maintain a smooth, consistent surface. As the entire production process is complicated and presents multiple points at which the dial can be malformed or destroyed entirely, failure rates are fairly high.
Numerous types of enamel processes exist that result in different finishes. Grand feu (“large fire”), for example, involves mixing enamel with water on a metal dial plate larger than the final product and polishing it to achieve a smooth texture. Champlevé, on the other hand, involves the cutting of grooves into the dial blank in order to reach an aesthetic variance between the metallic and enamel-filled sections. Cloisonné, meanwhile, sees the artisan bending and applying tiny metallic wires into various shaped “compartments” on the dial, each of which is filled with enamel powder. Once fired, the dial takes on the appearance of stained glass, albeit with a solid metallic base beneath, which doesn’t allow light to pass through. Watches made in this way are, as one might imagine, fairly expensive by the standards of a humble lacquer-dial tool watch.
Still, enormous headway has been made by brands like Scotland’s anOrdain and China’s Atelier Wen to offer enamel-dial watches at more competitive prices, which is generally less than $10,000. At the other end of the price spectrum are models from the likes of Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe, both of which offer wares with sticker prices in the six figures. Either way, be prepared for a bit of sticker shock because enamel watches aren’t for the faint of wallet. But if you’ve got the scratch and the inclination to own something special — something that’s as much akin to a miniature piece of artwork as it is to a timepiece — then the spectacular watches below might be perfect for your wrist.
The Best Enamel-Dial Watches
anOrdain Model 3 Method
Based in Glasgow, Scotland, anOrdain burst onto the scene a decade ago, stunning the world with its affordable enamel-dialed watches. Teaming up with Method Studios, the Glaswegian firm designed its most ambitious project yet in the form of the Model 3 Method. First, a block of carved ash is translated into a CAD model, after which it’s scaled down and engraved onto a die. The die is used to create a dial, which is then filled with enamel, resulting in a beautiful and highly-organic watch. Available in Lichen or Aqua colorways, the 39mm steel Model 3 Method is powered by a Swiss movement from Sellita and comes with a premium leather strap.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Sellita cal. SW300 automatic
Water Resistance: 50m
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
There’s no mistaking the sheer beauty of this pared-down, pocket-watch inspired timepiece from Breguet. The Classique Souscription 2025 is modeled on the firm’s late 18th-century timepieces, which were sold via a subscription financing model (hence the name). The white grand feu enamel dial — complete with blued steel, hollow ‘Breguet’-style hands and black Breguet indices — is a callback to these early watches, while the modern Breguet cal. VS00 hand-wound movement is a thing of incredible beauty and sophisticated finishing. Sized in a modern 40mm diameter, the Classique Souscription 2025 is a fitting way to celebrate 250 years of innovation.
Diameter: 40mm
Movement: Breguet cal. VS00 hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Patek Philippe 5231G-001
Louis Cottier’s famed world time system has been an integral part of Patek Philippe’s complicated watchmaking since the 1930s. The modern white gold ref. 5231G-001, powered by the brand’s cal. 240 HU automatic movement with 24-hour display and day/night indication for 24 time zones, features a stunning cloisonné grand feu enamel map of Oceania and Southeast Asia in stunning fidelity. Referencing vintage enamel-dial world time examples from the mid-20th century, this romantic execution of a distinctly utilitarian complication is one of the most poetic of all Patek Philippe designs — and a highly collectible one, at that.
Diameter: 38.5mm
Movement: Patek Philippe cal. 240 HU automatic
Water Resistance: 30m
Vacheron Constantin Tribute to Great Civilizations – Grand Sphinx de Tanis
Vacheron’s series of four Tribute to Great Civilizations pieces utilizes every facet of the maison’s savoir-faire to incredible effect, rendering the ancient cultures of Egypt, Rome, Persia and Greece in dynamic relief on the dial of a 42mm precious-metal watch. The Grand Sphinx de Tanis edition stands out for its mix of watchmaking techniques. Featuring a hand-engraved 18K appliqué depiction of the Great Sphinx of Tanis and falcon wings in champlevé enamel, it also boasts a sapphire crystal glass covered in hieroglyphic inscriptions from a cartouche of the sphinx, plus a further champlevé enamel frieze representing ancient Egyptian civilization. Small discs in the dial corners indicate the hours, minutes, days and date.
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Vacheron Constantin cal. 2460 G4/2 automatic
Water Resistance: 30m
Kari Voutilainen 28E
For someone who desires a more restrained use of enamel, master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen’s 28E is an excellent choice. Housed in a 39mm titanium case with decorative corne de vache-style lugs, a prominent crown and a polished bezel, it features a glossy black grand feu enamel dial over a solid gold base. Outfitted with Breguet numerals and hands and a large sub-seconds display above 6 o’clock, the hand-wound 28E is finished to the highest standards in-house by Voutilainen’s team and features a unique escapement with dual escape wheels, offering increased efficiency over a traditional lever escapement.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Kari Voutilainen cal. 28E hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Seiko Presage SPB161J1
Though it can be difficult to track down, the Seiko Presage SPG161J1 is proof that it’s possible to build a relatively affordable enamel-dial watch. Available in both white and blue executions, this 40.6mm stainless steel model features a modern case design mixed with a large, pocket watch-inspired onion-style crown. A smooth bezel frames the main event, namely, an enamel dial with a subtle wave pattern crafted by master enameller Mitsuru Yokosawa. Overlaid with a mix of modern and more traditional typographic styles, it features a handy power reserve indicator and a large sub-seconds display at 9 o’clock and 6 o’clock, respectively.
Diameter: 39.9mm
Movement: Seiko cal. 6R27 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture
While many modern Ulysse Nardin creations take advantage of the manufacture’s specialization in silicon componentry and advanced escapement designs, the Classico Manufacture is much more informed by the firm’s history as a maker of marine chronometers. Housed in a 40mm stainless steel case with spider-style lugs and a smooth bezel, it boasts a handsome blue grand feu enamel dial by UN-owned company Donzé Cadrans. It also features an outer railroad minute track, Roman numeral indices, a small-seconds indicator and a date window above 6 o’clock. Powered by the cal. UN-320 hand-wound movement, it’s a beautiful reference to the company’s long history.
Diameter: 40mm
Movement: Ulysse Nardin cal. UN-320 hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Celadon Century Cloisonné “Seven Wonders”
Singapore-based watchmaker Celadon flies well under the radar in the West, which is a shame, considering the wealth of inspired designs produced at the company’s Chinese workshops. The Century Cloisonné “Seven Wonders” features a particularly stunning use of enamel in the form of a cloisonné depiction of the Great Wall of China, Taj Mahal, Petra, the Colosseum, Christ the Redeemer statue, Machu Picchu and Chichen Itza. Colorful and rendered in beautiful detail, the watch is housed in a large 42mm C-shaped stainless steel case and powered by the highly-decorated Celadon cal. CH5 hand-wound movement.
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Celadon cal. CH5 hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Lundis Bleus ref. 1125
A Swiss high-end independent brand, Lundis Bleus produces no more than 100 enamel-dial pieces per year, each being a minimalist, beautifully realized creation that any serious collector would be proud to own. The ref. 1125 — the fourth model designed since the company’s founding in 2016 — is a classically-inspired timepiece rendered in one of two absinthe-inspired designs, “La Fée Verte” and “La Bleue.” Consisting of grand feu enamel finished in a hand-guilloché pattern, it features the hand-wound cal. LTM5000 from Le Temps Manufacture and comes paired to a custom leather strap.
Diameter: 40mm
Movement: Le Temps Manufacture cal. LTM5000 hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm
Someone looking for a sportier enamel-dial watch would be well-served by the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm ref. 81010-11-3475-1CM. Rendered in stainless steel and measuring just 10.68mm tall, this luxury sports watch offers 100m of water resistance and an integrated bracelet, making it ideal for everyday use. The dial — offered in gray enamel with a flinqué sunray motif and rhodium-plated dial furniture — is simultaneously restrained and deeply handsome, while the Girard-Perregaux cal. GP01800 automatic movement provides a minimum 54-hour power reserve, a gold oscillating weight and traditional finishing.
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Girard-Perregaux cal. GP01800 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
Atelier Wen Ancestra Jiāo
Another Chinese watchmaker offering outsize value, Atelier Wen’s creations span more classically-inspired pieces as well as modern luxury sports watch-style models with integrated bracelets. While both feature enamel dials, the dressier Ancestra Jiāo — with its hand-hammered grand feu enamel dial featuring either traditional Chinese numerals or bamboo-inspired even-hour markers in Western-Arabic numerals — is particularly fetching. Powered by a customized cal. EPM03 automatic from Pequignet and featuring alternating lab-grown, baguette-cut diamond indices in either execution, it provides stunning value considering its (relatively) approachable price.
Diameter: 38mm
Movement: Pequignet cal. EPM03 automatic
Water Resistance: 100m
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon
While many turn to Lange’s 1815 collection for its elegant, time-only dress watches, the complicated 1815 Tourbillon is no less worthy of attention. Available in three distinct executions, the 50-piece limited-edition with a 39.5mm platinum case and jet black enamel dial is distinctly attractive. Featuring hacking seconds and a zero-reset function — which allows the movement to be stopped and the seconds hand to be returned to the zero position — it’s powered by the hand-wound A. Lange & Söhne cal. L102.1, a beautifully finished caliber with a 72-hour power reserve that’s visible via a sapphire crystal caseback.
Diameter: 39.5mm
Movement: A. Lange & Söhne cal. L102.1 hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
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Oren Hartov writes about watches — and occasionally menswear, design, travel and other things — for InsideHook and other publications. He tries to blend his deep love of history with a fascination with horology, focusing on military watches, tool watches and the beautiful dress watches of the mid-20th century. A gigging musician, SCUBA diver and military veteran, he has a particular love for purpose-built timepieces such as the Rolex Submariner or Omega Speedmaster — but feels just at home writing about an elegant Patek Philippe Calatrava.
