A Guide to the Loneliest Road in America

You’ve seen Route 66. You’ve done the Pacific Coast Highway. But have you driven Highway 50?

It’s nicknamed the “Loneliest Road in America,” and you’d be forgiven for not having heard of it before. But today, with overcrowded National Parks during peak season and all the usual hotspots infiltrated with tourists, there’s never been a better time to be lonely. While many travelers go to Nevada for the glamor of Las Vegas, it’s a completely different experience traveling through Highway 50 towns such like Fallon, Eureka and Ely.

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Highway 50 isn’t for everyone. Rather, it’s for eager travelers who want to explore ghost towns, star-filled skies, stretches of highway where you’d be lucky to see a dozen other cars and a truly local all-American experience.

Where does the Loneliest Highway start?

While the highway runs across the country from Ocean City, Maryland, to Sacramento, California, the most isolated stretch is through Nevada, from Reno Tahoe to the Utah border near Baker. These parts of America are living time capsules, small towns with locals well-versed in the folklore, which is ultimately what drew me to it. Each stop on my itinerary saw me in an entirely different environment, from the ARTWALK in Reno Tahoe to a stay in a haunted hotel in Eureka.

After four stops on Highway 50, I punctuated my road trip with a stop in Vegas. The juxtaposition of totally empty sidewalks in small-town Nevada with the crowded streets of Vegas is definitely something special.

When is the best time of year to visit?

Each season offers something different, but I’d recommend the fall months: September-October. Days are warm (60-70 degrees), nights are cool (40s) and you won’t be contending with the summer hordes. If you do travel in the summer, be prepared for temperatures in the 90s and 100s.

The length of your road trip is entirely up to you. You can include fewer stops and spend more time in each place, or space them out like I did. I’d recommend two nights in Reno Tahoe, one night in Fallon, one night in Eureka and one night in Ely. For my part, I spent three nights in Las Vegas afterwards to round out a full week of adventures.

Where to start: Reno Tahoe, Nevada

I’m from New Jersey, so I flew into Reno Tahoe and rented a car that I later returned in Las Vegas. Reno Tahoe is nicknamed the “Biggest Little City,” and it lives up to its name. While Lake Tahoe delivers pristine alpine beauty and world-class outdoor recreation, Reno pulses with a creative energy shaped in part by its proximity to Burning Man, the annual desert gathering that turns nearby Black Rock City into a neon-lit utopia of art, self-expression and radical community.

What to do: This stop is for adventure junkies and especially for those who like to climb. BaseCamp is home to the tallest outdoor rock wall at 164 ft. tall with the best views in the city.

Spend the afternoon exploring Midtown Reno and the Downtown Reno Riverwalk. The latter, along the Truckee River has larger-than-life murals and sculptures that found a permanent home after originally being on display at Burning Man Festival. Travelers will also find apparel boutiques, local coffee shops, cocktail lounges and more.

If you’re looking for more art, visit The Nevada Museum of Art. (Fun fact: it’s the only accredited art museum in Nevada.)

Where to eat and drink: For breakfast, you can’t go wrong with Two Chicks, serving a wide range of comfort food, award-winning Bloody Marys and fresh-squeeze mimosas. For dinner, Homegrown Gastropub is known for its local, seasonal and organic ingredients. With 19 beers on tap, organic sodas and craft cocktails, it’s a perfect spot to end the day’s adventure.

Where to stay: Best Bet Motor Lodge is a newly renovated and modern boutique hotel that encompasses nostalgic charm. The property’s 21 rooms and suites were completely modernized, though historic neon sign that welcomes guests was preserved.

On property is the Reno Sauna Club, which shouldn’t be missed. The best part of the spa is the Airstream that’s been converted to a sauna in the outdoor space. The indoor space features cold plunge showers, a heated daybed and an indoor sauna.

Stop #2: Fallon, Nevada

Fallon is an hour’s drive from Reno Tahoe and is known for its varying terrains from farmlands to desert landscapes and military history. It’s home to Naval Air Station Fallon, where scenes from Top Gun were filmed. Fallon is the final stop before really going off of the grid — it’s far from a bustling city, but you can still, at the very least, find a Walmart.

What to do: While outdoor activities are the highlight of this stop, a visit to local Frey Ranch Estate Distillery is a must. Specializing in single-barrel, straight bourbon and rye whiskey, there’s only a handful of estate distilleries on the entire planet. After you’ve tasted some homegrown whiskey, explore Sand Mountain Recreation Area: a sand dune off of the highway that runs two miles long for sandboarding, hiking or simply taking in the mesmerizing sight. Outdoor enthusiasts can also experience Grimes Point Fallon with a guided tour to a hidden cave that’s an active archaeological dig site today.

Where to eat and drink: Courtyard Cafe is a local breakfast spot with homemade baked goods with their signature cinnamon rolls. Another notable establishment is Telegraph Coffee & Tap where their beans are roasted in-house. For lunch and dinner, The Grid has three locations: The Grid proper (restaurant, corn hole and pool), Market & Brewery (taproom) and Grid Poke (the best poke bowls in Fallon).

Where to stay: Fallon has various chain hotels from Best Western to Comfort Inn, but, here, I’d recommend finding a unique Airbnb to stay in. I stayed for one night in a quaint rental that was located on a sunflower farm.

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Pitstop: Middlegate Station, Nevada

This pitstop of Middlegate Station, Nevada has a population of just 17. Just an hour east of Fallon, this roadhouse is truly one-of-a-kind, blending Wild West history, rustic charm and arguably the best burger you’ll eat. The Sagebrush Saloon is home to the iconic Middlegate Monster Burger — a towering, three-pound challenge.

Stop #3: Eureka, Nevada

Middlegate to Eureka is about two hours, with an optional stop in Austin about halfway through. This was one of my favorite stops on the trip because it was so off-the-grid and unexpected.

Eureka is the ghost town that you probably didn’t know existed, and it’s known as the “Friendliest Town on the Loneliest Road.” During this mining town’s peak, Eureka was home to around 9,000 people, while today the population has dropped to just 450. The very small downtown looks like a Wild West movie set, though even with a restored opera house, 1870s newspaper printing press, historic homes, hotels and more, it’s very much not a set.

What to do: A self-guided historic walking tour that covers 60 sites in a three-block radius is a great way to see the downtown area. Afterlife Antiques & Oddities is a locally-owned shop that Kristan Umina opened in 2022 with her husband. The shop is one of the only remaining places in town that has underground tunnels — some of which connected the entire town at one point in time.

The Eureka Opera House has become a cultural hub for the town, hosting performances, events and community gatherings. It was built in 1880 and since has been restored while showcasing its historical and vibrant charm.

Where to eat and drink: Arguably the best meatloaf I’ve had was for dinner at The Owl Club. The establishment has grown into a Highway 50 staple, featuring a steakhouse, expansive bar and, of course, a dance hall. One of Eureka’s newest restaurants is Urban Cowboy Bar & Grill, offering everything from fresh salads and sandwiches, to burgers, steak dinner specials and seafood delights.

Where to stay: If you aren’t afraid of ghosts, stay at the Victorian-style, historical Jackson House Hotel that dates back to 1877. The hotel is famous for paranormal activity, including ghostly encounters with a Lady in Red, a cowboy and a young girl — most often in the Jackson Suite. Having stayed in that room, I can confirm you may experience disturbances throughout the night.

Stop #4: Ely

Eureka to Ely is about an hour and 15 minutes, which takes us to the final stop on Highway 50. Once a booming copper mining town, Ely is a destination for history buffs. The town is located nearby Great Basin National Park, which offers some of the darkest skies in the country for stargazing. Ely feels like a city compared to Eureka, with just under 4,000 residents.

What to do: Watch the sunset on the Sunset, Stars & Champagne Train with Nevada Northern Railway. With a bubbly in-hand, step outside of the train car to stargaze far away from the city lights.

Explore Garnet Hill, an internationally known site for gem collectors looking for garnets. You’ll definitely need some patience to find the ruby red semi-precious gems, but even if you come up empty-handed, you’re still guaranteed some beautiful views.

Where to eat and drink: Economy Drug has been a community staple since 1946, featuring a 1950s-style soda fountain, deli sandwiches, various ice cream concoctions and nostalgic beverages like the Lime Rickey. For dinner visit Hometown Pizza where you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu, from pizzas to pasta dishes and cinnamon sticks for dessert.

Where to stay: Conveniently located downtown is the Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall. Years ago, this landmark hotel was a favorite among the famous Hollywood elite traveling between California and Sun Valley, Idaho.

Veering off of Highway 50

Before ending in Las Vegas, stop at the hidden gem that is Cathedral Gorge State Park. This park has surreal slot canyons to hike through and rock formations reminiscent of Bryce Canyon National Park.

It was bittersweet turning off of Highway 50 as I headed toward Las Vegas, my final destination. I had no idea what to expect going into this road trip, but I’ve always welcomed the unknown. I’d wanted to see a side of America that I hadn’t yet seen, and have a true local experience there — and that’s exactly what I did.

In Vegas, I stayed at The Cromwell and enjoyed mesmerizing Cirque du Soleil shows such as O and KÀ. But even while standing among thousands of travelers on the Strip, I couldn’t help feeling nostalgic for the couple nights prior, when I’d been surrounded by all of the stars in the sky and virtually nothing else.