Having landed back in New York, I’m taking a moment to appreciate the impressive displays at this year’s Milan Menswear shows. Most years I’m left with mixed feelings about the displays from the brands, but this season it’s overwhelmingly positive. There is palpable shift towards back toward traditional tailoring and away from the dominant streetwear trends of previous seasons. Designers have embraced the artistry of well-crafted suits and tailored pieces, emphasizing precision and elegance. Amid this return to sartorial roots, there are subtle hints of glamour woven into the collections, adding a touch of opulence and and injection of personality into the understated charm of classic tailoring. The season exudes a sense of quiet luxury, but not so quiet as to lose character. Extravagance is expressed in refined details and strategic cuts rather than overt flamboyance. Milan Menswear has captured the balance between sophistication and modernity, creating a space where the details and craftsmanship speak volumes.
Brand Highlights:
GUCCI
Under the helm of the new menswear designer Sebato De Sarno, the Gucci runway show unfolded as a captivating blend of innovative designs and a bold departure from convention. The collection showcased a refreshing take on luxury, seamlessly intertwining classic tailoring, eclectic elements and injections of glamor. Sarno’s collection put a definitive stamp on a new era for the iconic fashion house.
DOLCE AND GABBANA
Dolce & Gabbana’s menswear collection stands out as the epitome of masterful tailoring, exemplifying a meticulous attention to detail and craftsmanship. The runway was a testament to the brand’s commitment to refined, “sleek” elegance, with each piece reflecting a harmonious balance between traditional tailoring and contemporary sensibilities.
ZEGNA
Zegna’s AW 2024 show is a testament to Alessandro Sartori’s vision, as he transforms Oasi Zegna into a sartorial laboratory. The collection embodies a commitment to innovation, sustainability and timeless style, through the exploration of fabrications and forward-thinking solutions. There is no sacrifice of beauty or excellence in Zegn’’s pursuit of progress and environmental responsibility.
TOD’S
Tod’s AW2024 collection places a spotlight on craftsmanship, as exemplified by the new collection titled PASHMY, which is a “work of research on the most exclusive and precious materials that, through the renowned methods of Italian craftsmanship, embodies the highest expression” of Tod’s artisanal tradition. The collection, presented in a palette ranging from warm browns to ice blue and teal, features essential and functional lines, with accessories like the Tod’s W.G. ankle boot and Bubble Gommino showcasing the brand’s dedication to merging sporty design with the finest leathers and precious variations, embodying a distinctive journey of style for the Tod’s man.
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CANALI
Canali’s latest collection, “IntoNature,” beautifully captures the essence of the outdoors with a subtle charm rooted in “sartorial mastery.” The F/W 2024 lineup features a rich array of textured fabrics, including bouclé, alpaca, mouliné, and cashmere, expertly crafted into signature outerwear like double-breasted peacoats and Sahariana jackets, as well as fluid pants and suits adorned with Plaid, Prince of Wales, and corduroy motifs.
EMPORIO ARMANI
Emporio Armani’s AW2024 collection embodies the brand’s signature style, presenting a “business as usual” approach with timeless elegance injected with modern personality.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
Per usual Brunello Cucinelli presented a perfect blend of luxurious fabrics, meticulous craftsmanship and contemporary design. The collection focuses on a timeless and versatile wardrobe that resonates with the modern man.
PRADA
Prada’s menswear collection for the current season is a fusion of innovation and classic aesthetics. The runway showcases a toned down exploration of materials, patterns and silhouettes, marking a distinctive shift in Prada’s menswear.
FENDI
Fendi’s AW2024 menswear collection reflects a commitment to functionality and timeless design. The creative process revolves around the constant review and reinterpretation of what Silvia Venturini refers to in her Vogue interview as “great classics.” The collection embodies a sense of enduring style, driven by Venturini’s unyielding dedication to excellence.
MSGM
Massimo Giorgetti explores the theme of time and speed with his AW2024 menswear collection. The brand ollaborated with The Franco Albini Foundation, Google Pixel 8, and artist Tiago Alexandreto to communicate an overarching concept of the pace with which we age, questioning whether maturity is ever truly reached.
DSQAURED2
Dsquared2’s AW2024 runway show showcased dynamic styles as sets of twins modeled the inherent dichotomies of the brand’s signature design codes. The collection skillfully played with the contrast between raw and refined, featuring rugged styles such as distressed denim and weathered check shirts for a raw aesthetic, while evening wear featured sharp tailoring, glossy fabrics, and sparkling embellishments. The show, as expected, exuded a playful energy synonymous with the Dsquared2’s brand.
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