Winter, dear readers, is a time for heavier, more complex colognes, scents that might be overwhelming in summer’s stifling humidity but fit right in in the crisp, cool air. Lower temperatures allow top notes to dissipate slowly, unveiling intricate heart and base notes that unfold into layered compositions. Amber, incense or sandalwood are aromas that smell richer, more intriguing and undeniably comforting. While I rotate colognes year-round based on mood and weather, winter is when I indulge in my favorite fragrance families: woods (a vast category in itself), incense, oud, spices, pine, cedar, leather, tobacco and rich gourmands. As we bundle up, the season calls for scents that linger a bit longer and are anything but basic.
Now, woods often form the backbone of many fragrances, whether in a solar summer scent or a verdant spring composition. And while they take center stage here, they’re not the only cold weather player. Incense has surged in popularity, oud (once a fringe category) is now a staple, and liquor accords, rich gourmands, leather and tobacco remain timeless classics. With six weeks left of my favorite season, we’re spotlighting nine standout scents, including new releases, a few classics and picks from iconic houses and indie luxe players. These colognes can be worn year-round, but we especially recommend them for winter.
Parfums de Marly Haltane
Now and then, a fragrance drops that sets the olfactory world abuzz, and Haltane is one of those modern classics. This cologne is for the man who moves with purpose, has accomplished things of value and smells damn good while doing it. (Yes, that sounds like an ad, but it’s true.) One of the most refined, complex and sophisticated takes on oud I’ve ever experienced, the scent opens with a fresh hit of bergamot and clary sage before a rich, gourmand warmth of praline sneaks in. As it dries down, patchouli, vetiver, leather and agarwood create a smooth and noble finish. You likely won’t reach for this on summer days, but this scent deserves a spot in your winter rotation for any occasion that demands some polish.
Fragrance Family: Oud/Woods
Tom Ford Bois Pacifique
When Tom Ford drops a new scent, we pay attention. Bois Pacifique is a masterclass in sensual woods. Notes of frankincense, oak and cedar interplay and imbue the feeling of walking in a resinous and crisp forest. An amber base adds depth, vanilla brings a touch of sweetness (and more warmth) and cardamom and turmeric lend a subtle spiciness. The result is a highly wearable woodsy cologne that works for workdays and meetings as it does for date nights and outings. Plus, the vessel is just as chic as the scent. Fans of woodsy musk should add this to their rotation, and for Tom Ford devotees, it’s a no-brainer.
Fragrance family: Musk/Woods
Perfumehead Canadian Tuxedo
By now, you probably know we love Perfumehead. The hip LA-based fragrance house crafts scents that are as transportive as they are luxe, appealing to both scenesters and cologne aficionados. Canadian Tuxedo is tricky to pin down at first, but it belongs in the woodsy category, layered with spicy, amber undertones. Cumin and bay leaf add an herbal, misty edge that’s not sunlit or aquatic but rather foggy and mysterious, like standing by a lake in the Canadian wilderness before heading to a who’s-who gathering in town. Inspired by Ryan Gosling in Drive, The Outsiders (and now maybe Kendrick’s Grammy acceptance speech), this scent captures the feel of perfectly broken-in jeans — familiar yet intriguing.
Fragrance Family: Amber/Woods
Frederic Malle Monsieur
Monsieur is a cold-weather scent I knew would become a modern classic upon the first whiff, and it will always be one of my go-to colognes in winter. For the uninitiated, patchouli might carry outdated connotations, but in high-end perfumery, it’s one of the most intoxicating, woodsy, unique notes a perfumer can use. I’ve always been drawn to refined patchouli, but Malle does something unexpected here, pairing it with a rich rum accord that adds a sweet warmth alongside a bright citrus, and grounding notes of cedar, amber and leather. The result is a sophisticated scent that’s equal parts refined gentleman and rock ‘n’ roll regality. You won’t be able to stop smelling it on your tweed coat or cashmere cardigan.
Fragrance Family: Woods/Patchouli
Santa Maria Novella Incenso
I could wax poetic about my love for Santa Maria Novella. The historic and revered Florentine house remains a perennial go-to for any discerning scentsman, celebrated for its bare-bones yet high-quality aromatic simplicity. I’m not always a fan of incense colognes (even though I love incense itself) because they can be polarizing and don’t always translate well to personal fragrances. Not here. Incenso opens with a warm cardamom and pink pepper before the incense unfurls over a verdant vetiver base. It’s incense done right — intoxicating yet approachable, grounding yet regal, crafted for both seasoned cologne wearers and newcomers. And the presentation and packaging are next level, resembling books you’d unearth in a centuries-old cathedral.
Fragrance Family: Incense
Kilian Paris Angels’ Share Paradis
Angels’ Share is one of Kilian’s wildly popular liquor-infused olfactory creations, so when the renowned house (see our profile here) took the spicy, woodsy warmth of the OG and reinterpreted it as a savory gourmand, I was all ears — or rather, nose. This new extrait (read: more concentrated scent) is a decadent winter warmer, opening with cognac and raspberry for a sweet, boozy kick before drying down into a rich, velvety Bulgarian rose (my favorite floral note). It settles over a praline, oak and sandalwood base, creating a sultry woodiness with a fruit accord that will carry you straight into spring. This scent will be a bit divisive in true Kilian bad boy fashion but is a must-try for brand devotees or anyone looking to make a sweet statement.
Fragrance Family: Liquor/Sweet/Woods
Montblanc Black Meisterstuck
Montblanc might be best known for crafting some of the finest luxury pens and leather goods, but they also know how to compose a fantastic fragrance. Meisterstück Black (named after their iconic pen, of course) is an approachable yet distinctive woodsy composition that nods to the brand’s DNA. There’s an intriguing ink accord (a fitting and cool touch), but this is a spicy, woodsy scent at its core. Incense and amber take center stage, anchored by my favorite green note, vetiver, for a subtly verdant edge. Smoky, almost ecclesiastical and housed in a bottle reminiscent of an ink blotter, this new Montblanc fragrance is writing its own narrative.
Fragrance Family: Woods/Spice
Louis Vuitton LV Lovers
Lovers, the first fragrance release from Louis Vuitton under Pharrell’s creative helm, has generated enough buzz to secure its spot in any fragrance listicle. The scent is just as regal as the house’s prior fragrance releases (remember that stellar men’s cologne launch from years ago?) but with a more nuanced, artisanal edge. On paper, Lovers reads like a summer fragrance, but on the skin, it unfolds into creamy sandalwood and cedarwood with lush greenery trailing the incense-laced galbanum and bright bergamot opening. Some say it echoes Santal 33, and I say any modern sandalwood scent inevitably invites that comparison, given its ubiquity in every NYC elevator. But Lovers is a unique, layered and dreamy composition of woods, ginger and solar notes, perfect for winter dates yet bright enough to carry into summer.
Fragrance Family: Fougère/Woods
Creed Centaurus
“Spice” can be tricky because cinnamon, pepper and cardamom (all standard notes) can sometimes lean too synthetic or overpowering. However, when Creed announced Centaurus, a bold oriental spicy scent, I was intrigued. And now, I can confirm this is spice with sophistication. As one of the most revered names in luxury fragrance, the Parisian stalwart has crafted several classics, including Aventus (one of my go-to special occasion scents) and Green Irish Tweed (one of the first colognes that showed me the world of luxe fragrance). Centaurus has an olfactory pyramid that is complex yet harmonious; it opens with cinnamon, tobacco, cardamom and pink pepper layered over patchouli and florals before settling into a rich base of incense, tonka bean and vanilla. Warm, decadent and undeniably elegant, Centaurus is a masterclass in spice that only Creed can compose, best reserved for black-tie affairs.
Fragrance Family: Woods/Spice
This article was featured in the InsideHook newsletter. Sign up now.