There’s something about hot weather that makes me crave fish tacos. Maybe it’s because I first fell in love with them at Tacoway Beach following a long day on the sand. After sunning and swimming for hours, there’s nothing more satisfying than eating fried fish tacos in-between bites of elote.

The fish taco’s roots can be traced back to Baja California, where laidback beach culture is king and fresh fish abounds. Typically, a white fish is beer-battered and fried, tucked into a corn tortilla with shredded cabbage and radish (the radish is sometimes served on the side) and topped with a tangy mayo and/or guacamole. I absolutely love the fried version, but getting restaurant-level crispiness in your kitchen isn’t always that easy (and almost always makes a mess). That’s why I’m turning to my favorite cooking tool this time of year: the grill.

To get some expert advice, I tapped Brian Redzikowski, the executive chef of SDCM Restaurant Group. Being in San Diego, Redzikowski knows a thing or two about what makes an excellent taco. And for this version, it starts with the right fish.

“I love halibut for this particular recipe because it lends itself well to the sauce,” Redzikowski says. “It is a very subtle fish and cooks quickly without becoming over-dry. A white bass would work just as well.”

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Most of the ingredients in Redzikowski’s fish taco recipe seem pretty standard — shredded cabbage, onion, a tangy mayo-based sauce. But one thing stood out to me because I’ve never seen it served inside a tortilla before: kohlrabi.

“Kohlrabi is such an underutilized vegetable,” Redzikowski says. “Not only does it make for a great crunchy salad, it is also very sweet with a slight radish taste that is not overwhelming.” I, for one, am sold.

When I asked if he had any general tips for grilling fish, the chef suggested using charcoal or wood instead of gas to really give it that smoky flavor. While these tacos will certainly be delicious cooked on a gas grill, maybe use his advice to try something new this season.

Grilled Halibut Tacos

Servings: 6 tacos

Ingredients

1 large kohlrabi
6 oz. halibut
.75 cup shaved white cabbage
.25 cup shaved red cabbage
.25 cup thinly-sliced green onion
.25 cup soy sauce
2/3 cup Mae Ploy
.5 cup sriracha
1 cup mayonnaise
2 tsp. onion powder
.5 tsp. sea salt
4 cups water
1 cup kosher salt
6 corn tortillas

Directions

1. Portion the halibut in 4-inch long strips. Reserve.
2. Combine the white and red cabbage with the green onions. Reserve.
3. Peel the kohlrabi, making sure to remove all green edges. Slice on a mandolin paper-thin. Reserve.
4. Make the sauce: combine the soy, Mae Ploy, sriracha, mayo, onion powder and sea salt. Reserve.
5. Combine the water and kosher salt and stir until the salt is dissolved. Place the fish in the brine for five minutes. Wash off with cold water.
6. Grill the halibut for two minutes on each side. Divide the sliced kohlrabi between the 6 tortillas and add the cabbage salad. Dip the grilled fish in the sauce and place on top of the cabbage salad. Serve.