What It’s Really Like to Hike the Great Wall of China

And how you can, too

January 24, 2025 10:09 am EST
One of the best day trips from Beijing
One of the best day trips from Beijing
Charukesi Ramadurai/InsideHook

“Where are all the people?” a friend asks upon seeing my photos from a recent trip to China, where I hiked on the Great Wall (and I have a T-shirt to prove it, so there). Truth is, I had wondered that myself when my husband and I found ourselves practically alone on the entire stretch of the Wall, just empty spaces as far as the eye could see in every direction.

My husband and I left our hotel in Beijing around 1 p.m. in our hired cab — local friends strongly advised us not to drive — and were headed to Jinshanling, a couple of hours away. I had pored over the maps and descriptions of the various sections of the Wall open to tourists and finally landed on Jinshanling for two reasons: one, it’s far enough from Beijing to keep large tour groups at bay, and two, the views all around are supposed to be stunning. I had also chosen to go later in the day so we could stay up to see the sunset from the top of the Wall.

Our driver dropped us off at the parking lot at Jinshanling, where we bought our tickets for the Wall and the cable car ride up to the beginning of the hike. All the way up on the excruciatingly slow cable car ride, I kept my neck craned for that first view of the Wall. Would I be disappointed? Would it be underwhelming? I was anxious but excited. 

"A thin line of greyish-brown stone snaking into the horizon on either side — took my breath away."
The late afternoon light makes for gorgeous photographs.
Charukesi Ramadurai

As it turned out, the first glimpse of the Wall — a thin line of grayish-brown stone snaking into the horizon on either side — took my breath away. It was the cusp between summer and autumn, when the air was cool and the trees lush. When we stepped onto the Wall, there were only a handful of people. 

As we walked on, it became quieter and wilder at the same time, until we eventually had the Wall to ourselves. We left behind the souvenir sellers and selfie-seekers, while the active hikers had overtaken us and disappeared into the far distance. We hiked in silence for a couple of hours, up and down steep steps and flat expanses, finally turning back at a point where the Wall had caved in and there was no way around the debris. 

Picking up cold water and an aerated drink from a vendor at one of the watchtowers we crossed, we sat down on a wide parapet to wait for the sun to begin its descent. On that chilly September evening, I was glad I chose to make it all the way to Jinshanling for this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

The Wall stretches for 13710 miles, according to an official statement issued by the government of China
The Wall stretches for 13,710 miles, according to an official statement issued by the Chinese government.
Charukesi Ramadurai

What’s So Great About the Wall?

It is important to remember the Great Wall is great for a reason — it is long, really long, stretching for 13,710 miles, according to an official statement issued by the government of China in 2012. Just the key segment of the Wall measures a whopping 2,150 miles, which has earned it a place in the Guinness World Records, and there are multiple branches and limbs at various points along the way.

The structure known today as the Great Wall is not just one continuous wall, but a series of walls with fortifications, watch towers and turrets, trenches and natural barriers; it runs across large swathes of northern China and southern Mongolia. The Wall exists in all kinds of terrain, from the portions just outside the crowded metropolis of Beijing to those in the remote mountain and desert regions. 

Construction of the Wall we see today was started by Qin Shi Huang, the influential ruler of the Qin dynasty, between 221-206 BCE (although some sources trace it way back to the 7th century BCE). It was then a basic fortification system made with rammed earth and wooden frames, meant to shield the kingdom from invaders.

Visiting Carnarvon Gorge: Australia’s Great Prehistoric Hiking Destination
With ancient art, prehistoric plants and hidden canyons, Carnarvon Gorge offers hikers an unforgettable Garden of Eden experience.

Several dynasties have been involved in the extension and upgrade of the Wall, the most significant of which was the Ming dynasty, who introduced sophisticated defense structures using brick and stone. In order to protect themselves against the Mongols from the north, more watchtowers, garrisons for soldiers and secure gates were added. Apart from defense, it was also meant to control the movement of goods and people across borders on the Silk Route.

The height of the Wall varies, going from 15 ft. up to 40 ft., and at its widest point measures 32 ft. — five horses or 10 soldiers could march side by side on that stretch. It is not just an architectural marvel, but also a site of historical and cultural significance to the Chinese, with scores of myths and legends around its meandering form (mostly involving ghostly soldiers and fiery monsters). In 1987, it was finally inscribed as a UNESCO world heritage site and is now on the list of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

It's not just one continuous wall, but a series of walls with fortifications, watch towers and turrets, trenches and natural barriers.
It’s not just one continuous wall but a series of walls with fortifications, watch towers and turrets, trenches, and natural barriers.
Charukesi Ramadurai

How to Hike the Great Wall

It is entirely possible to visit the Great Wall on your own, with some areas connected by public transport and others by private taxis and buses. Signboards are plentiful and detailed, so you don’t really need a guide. But if you are anxious, there are several travel companies in Beijing that offer guided tours of varying length and complexity.

There are a few sections of the Wall that have been repaired and restored meticulously, while some others lay in utter ruin and are considered dangerous, with loose stones, crumbling walls and overgrown scrubs and bushes creating an extreme obstacle course. Some have arduous walks through forested areas, steep stone steps and wooden ladders, and some are easier, reached by a moderate hike or cable car (such as the one I took in Jinshanling). 

Luckily for tourists, the most accessible sections are not far from Beijing and can be done as an easy half- to full-day trip from the capital city. It’s not surprising that more than 10 million people visit this iconic landmark every year.

It is entirely possible to visit the Great Wall on your own.
It is entirely possible to visit the Great Wall on your own.
Charukesi Ramadurai

Here are a few important things to remember while planning your visit:

  • Choose which section you want to visit, based on how much time you have and what you want from the experience. Badaling is the closest to Beijing and suitable for all ages and fitness levels, but it’s also the most crowded and popular among large tour groups. Mutianyu is well maintained and popular, but it is possible to leave crowds behind if you walk for half an hour. The toboggan ride for the descent also makes it ideal for families with kids. Jinshanling is a two hour drive from Beijing, and while some parts are not in great condition, the scenery is absolutely stunning. Gubeikou and Simitai have crumbling walls and piles of debris, making it a difficult hike in rugged terrain, but these are uncrowded and the views make it worth the extra effort. 
  • It is also possible to do longer hikes between two different sections, but be aware that the entire stretch may not be as well maintained as the key areas on either end.
  • There is really no bad time to visit the Great Wall because every season has its own unique delights (think fall colors in the surrounding forests, snow-clad peaks in winter and so on). It’s best to avoid peak holiday periods like the Lunar New Year and National Week holiday in early October, when thousands and thousands of locals descend upon this national landmark.
  • Get there early in the morning or late in the afternoon for the best sunlight and, therefore, the best photographs.

dd

MEET US AT YOUR INBOX. FIRST ROUND'S ON US.

Join America's Fastest Growing Spirits Newsletter THE SPILL. Unlock all the reviews, recipes and revelry — and get 15% off award-winning La Tierra de Acre Mezcal.