Living in the United States, the West calls for us all eventually. At least it has for me in the last couple of years. I haven’t been to that many national parks or Western states, and after hearing about my parents’ recent adventure to Montana, I knew I had to go. So my husband and I booked a trip for mid-September, I packed my cowboy boots and bolo tie, and off we went for a week.
If our Montana trip was a sandwich, Bozeman was the bread: We spent two nights on the upfront of our trip and another two nights at the end. I expected to like the city, but I didn’t anticipate falling completely in love with its design. It’s hard to explain unless you’ve been there, but it mixes Western heritage and a retro Rocky Mountain lodge vibe with very modern details — think clean lines and lots of glass, a result of West Coast money that’s filtered in in recent decades. But because of the boom the city had in the 1960s, thanks to the growth of Montana State University, it also has a lot of mid-century signs and architecture. Mix in the big sky views that show off the surrounding Bridger and Gallatin Ranges, and it’s one of the most visually interesting cities I’ve ever seen.
I did some research on what to do in advance, but throughout the trip, I asked locals the best places to eat, drink, shop and enjoy the great outdoors in Bozeman. Sort of like a game of telephone, except instead of producing a silly answer at the end, I got a ton of useful advice that I’m now passing on to you.
If you’re planning a trip to Bozeman, here’s everything the locals recommend — and a few gems I found myself, too.
Where to Stay
Because our Bozeman trip was broken up into two parts, we decided to stay at two different hotels. The first two nights were spent at Kimpton Armory Hotel, which is situated in downtown Bozeman, making it easy to walk to a lot of places on this list. Our one-bedroom suite was massive, perfect for spreading out after a long travel day and hiking in town. We had breakfast at onsite restaurant Fielding’s both mornings (order the huckleberry smoothie) and enjoyed the hotel bars thoroughly. Shy Shed is a rooftop bar overlooking the city, with both a glass-enclosed indoor space and outdoor lounge with fire pits. Tune Up is the subterranean whiskey bar where live music is on the docket almost every night. The Walnut St. Revival — made with High West Rye, maple and black walnut bitters — was a favorite.
Our second two nights were spent at Field & Stream Lodge Bozeman, a newly-opened hotel that brings the great outdoors in. Our room was compact but perfectly designed, featuring a long sideboard that was part desk, part dresser and plenty of storage hooks. The fixtures throughout are so chic — my husband said they reminded him of Schoolhouse — and the whole property is adorned with vintage covers from Field & Stream magazine, which is such a vibe. It even features my favorite thing of all time: an indoor pool dug pre-1970s, meaning it’s way deeper than five feet. We had breakfast and pre-dinner cocktails at Dry Fly Saloon and enjoyed nightcaps at The Honey Hole, a game room with billiards, darts and gambling.
Places That Came Highly Recommended From Locals
The second I set foot in Bozeman, I started getting recommendations from the friendly locals. Kevin, who was my Uber driver from the airport to the hotel, couldn’t say enough nice things about this sandwich spot, so I picked up the turkey with havarti, pickled onion and basil aioli the next day. My only regret is not saving enough time to pick up another before the flight home (and take note that the food situation at BZN is dire).
Recommended by Kevin the Uber driver
Another winner from Kevin. This charming cafe lives up to its name, with all manner of cat knickknacks adorning the space. They are known for their Mimosas, with flavors like pineapple, blood orange and apple cinnamon on offer. And the food from chef/owner Kevin Caracciolo (yes, different Kevin than the Uber driver) is delicious. I had an artichoke soup and honey fried chicken sandwich that were top-notch.
Recommended by Kevin the Uber driver
The $3.50 happy hour Martinis caught my eye when pursuing Brigade’s menu, and Brynn at Sky Shed (Kimpton Armory’s rooftop bar) confirmed that it was a favorite Bozeman restaurant. We opted for wine flights instead of ‘tinis, and a crazy spread of food that barely fit on the table. Everything we had was amazing, including the pork ribs with BBQ sauce and miso blue cheese, the grilled Caesar salad and the burger.
Recommended by Brynn from Sky Shed
Tell Me Where: A Locals’ Guide to Providence, Rhode Island
I asked bartenders, shop owners and restaurateurs: what are the essential stops? Then I visited them myself.During our last two nights in Bozeman, I was looking for some locals-approved bars, and Ande gave me a whole list of good recs. The next night we wandered into Plonk for happy hour, and the Martinis delivered in strength and deliciousness. But this place has an excellent wine list, too.
Recommended by Ande from J.W. Heist
This 2.3-mile loop was a perfect first hike, as the trailhead is close to the city center and it’s well-populated, meaning bear spray wasn’t a necessary accompaniment in mid-September. There is a healthy elevation gain, so it’s a great workout without being too strenuous.
Recommended by Catherine from Fielding’s
While on a UTV excursion at The Ranch at Rock Creek, guide Riley was telling me about all of her favorite vintage shops in Bozeman, so I knew I had to check out this gem. It’s an amazing place to buy all manner of Westernwear, from boots and belts to elaborate snap-button shirts.
Recommended by Riley from The Ranch at Rock Creek
While I wasn’t able to hit every locals’ suggestion, here are a few recommendations I received that I hope to check out next time: Hideaway Lounge, Shan, Blackbird, Little Star Diner, Vienne, Crystal Bar, The Mint Bar & Grill, Chico Hot Springs, Grotto Falls
The Gems I Found Myself
I always look for the best sourdough bread when I travel, so Wild Crumb was on my radar. Lucky me that it shares an address with Fink’s Deli, so we stopped in there for bread and pastries after picking up our sandwich, all of which were divine.
Livingston, Montana was on my list even before Bozeman because a California friend had sung its praises. So I knew I wanted to visit the charming town, located only a 30-minute drive from Bozeman itself. As I was researching, I saw The New York Times had included Campione as one of America’s best restaurants in 2023 and immediately made a res. The tiny former general store serves Roman cuisine via Montana, using local ingredients, like the beef that goes into their excellent meatballs. Don’t miss the giardiniera salad and cornmeal-crusted Flathead Lake trout, served with Montana lentils and pickled king trumpet mushrooms.
You can’t go to Montana without having a proper slab of beef, so this fancy steakhouse was on my list before even setting foot in the state. The dining room is all brick and dark wood, done up in crystal chandeliers and taxidermy (my kinda place). Steaks are cooked in a woodfired oven, and my ribeye was done-up with a mushroom peppercorn demiglace. Divine!
Montana is full of natural hot springs. And to be honest, most people I asked recommended smaller facilities outside of the city. But because we had limited time, we decided to give Bozeman Hot Springs a go, and it was awesome. It features 12 indoor and outdoor pools, ranging in temperature from 59 to 106 degrees, as well as a steam room and dry sauna.
I stumbled upon this shop across the street from Fink’s and Wild Crumb, and they had all sorts of local, handmade ceramics, jewelry and artwork. It’s the perfect place to buy gifts or souvenirs.
This locally-owned shop just celebrated its 10th anniversary this year, and I actually found it while perusing a T Magazine article from 2018. It was one of the coolest shops I’ve ever stepped into, filled to the brim with goods from independent designers. I bought an olive bolo tie, one of the best purchases I’ve made all year.
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