Every gent worth his salt has a good tailor. More important than the suit is the man who fits it, as they say.
According to London-born NYC clothier Duncan Quinn, “Once you find a good tailor, you must never give his name away even under the threat of bodily harm. Except to your best friends and dearest enemies.”
So we’ll have to be forgiven for spreading the word when it comes to the man himself — as not only is he the wiliest of experts in achieving the sort of rakish charm you’d find in UK fashion mags and Guy Ritchie movies, but you may also find his wealth of advice and counsel extends beyond the fiber of your fabric. To fine wine, fast cars … yachts, even.
But that’s a story he’ll have to tell you himself at his NYC atelier, which may or may not feature secret passageways hidden behind massive cabinets of top-shelf hooch.
For now, content yourself with some top tips from the man himself on adding some London swagger to your vestiary arsenal this season:
Stop With the Whole Three-Season Rubbish
“That’s for amateurs and department stores. You will look far, far better in something with a little more heft. It will drape better. It will last longer. You can have glorious evenings of debauchery in it and spill all manner of things on it and it will survive. Go for something in the 12-oz. to 13-oz. range if you really want that city Brit look. For the really good stuff, look to Dormeuil for cloth. They started making it in 1842, and despite being French they have always made it in England. Where the best cloth comes from. Of course.”
Add Some Punch, But Be Judicious
“Stripes are optional. As is flannel. But if you can find it, add a little color either in the stripe, check, lining or detail. But be careful with that — metrosexual man is dead, and you also don’t want to look like Coco the Clown. So seek sage advice and counsel before you end up messing up that classic dark blue jacket with red stitching everywhere.”
Get Your Tweed Game Up
“Yes your mate can brag about how he got his 100% cashmere Loro Piana overcoat at a 90% discount last season for a pittance even though it’s worth bazillions. But who cares. And if it really was worth that why the f*ck would they sell it for nothing? Anyway. Tweed. Get some. The proper stuff. Not the namby pamby cashmere impressions. Go for 16-oz. to 21-oz. and you’ll be set for two things: -20 in New York City with just a scarf, gloves and a good pair of boots, and also that shooting invitation from Holland & Holland you’ve been angling for. Once you have the tweed, give Guy over there a call and tell him Duncan sent you.”
Get Thee a Brolly (That’s Brit speak for umbrella)
“A proper one is often what separates the men from the boys. There’s nothing worse than a fine outfit devalued by a $10 umbrella. No excuses. And if you know the right man you can color-coordinate with your outfit. Of course, it has to have the structural integrity of a Sherman tank along with the lines and looks of Elle MacPherson. Brigg make some fine ones. As do we. And if you really know the right man, of course, for a fee you can be well prepared for that duel at dawn when the young lady’s more regular squeeze comes home half an hour early.” (Ed. note: Neither InsideHook nor Mr. Quinn endorse infidelity and/or umbrella-sparring. We do appreciate a bit of cheeky British banter, though.)