A couple months ago, I saw Wicked at Metro Private Cinema, a new movie theater in NYC that boasts private screening rooms with plush seating and multi-course, family-style meals. Before we were ushered into our theater for dinner and the movie, we sidled up to the front room bar to try some of the cocktails. Among the Martini variations (the Carrot Dill was a favorite) and classic cocktails on the list, the Gin & Tonics menu caught my eye because three of them contained a shrub.
If you aren’t familiar with shrubs, they’re a simple mix of sugar, fruit and vinegar. Some people use them to jazz up soda water, and they’re popular with bartenders because they add depth and tang to cocktails. But as many times as I’ve seen them on cocktail menus, I’ve never noticed them mixed into a Gin & Tonic.
“Shrubs are a great example of an old tradition of preservation that has made its way into modern bar programs,” says Catherine Manabat, director of hospitality at New Riff Distilling.
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It takes a bit of prep and knowledge, but they’re a great way to add both earthy and sweet elements to a drinkIndeed, the making of shrubs actually started out of necessity before the advent of refrigeration. In 17th-century England, it was a common practice to mix berries and other fruit with vinegar so they had a longer shelf life; it didn’t hurt that the resulting liquid tasted delicious. In the 21st century, bartenders are still applying those lessons.
“I particularly appreciate their bold sweet-tart balance, especially in gin drinks where the acidity harmonizes with juniper without overpowering it,” says Akshar Chalwadi, head mixologist at Chicago’s Indienne. “As such, shrubs have become a staple in craft cocktails for their ability to add depth, minimize waste and complement seasonal fruits.”
At Metro, shrubs are all over the cocktail menu — it’s one way to reduce food waste from the kitchen and bar. But they also play into nostalgia. “The flavors were inspired by old-fashioned movie candy flavors, specifically Jolly Ranchers,” says Metro founder Tim League, who is also the entrepreneur behind Alamo Drafthouse. “The little hint of sweet and sour, with neither being overpowering, is a perfect match to the botanical notes in gin.”
On Metro’s menu, that means Hendrick’s Orbium Gin mixed with housemade green apple shrub and tonic, or Plymouth Gin and tonic spiked with blueberry shrub. The sweet-sour flavor does indeed complement the gin’s botanicals and also cuts through the tonic’s bitter quinine taste. And because a Gin & Tonic has a cleaner, more neutral flavor as far as cocktails go, the sky’s the limit when it comes to which fruit you choose.
“Berry shrubs with strawberries, blackberries, raspberries and blueberries offer sweet-tart flavors that add juicy depth to Gin & Tonics,” Chalwadi says. “Strawberries and blackberries are often crowd-pleasers, sometimes enhanced with herbs and spices for added complexity. Stone fruits like peaches, cherries, nectarines and plums bring a more summery sweetness with a floral undertone, while tropical fruits like pineapple and banana provide a burst of brightness to any cocktail.”
Making your own shrub is easy, and there are a ton of recipes online that can help guide you. But League has a quick DIY cheat sheet if you want to play around more freely.
“Rule of thumb is equal parts fruit, sugar and vinegar,” League says. “Slice or macerate the fruit and coat with sugar and let sit for 24 hours. Mix in the vinegar and let sit for a couple hours and then strain out the solids. Voila! A tasty and versatile shrub to have with tonic or to use as a base for cocktails.”
As for how much to add to your Gin & Tonic, it’s best to start small and adjust to your preferred taste. Remember that you can always add but never take away. “Shrubs are quite potent, so when adding it to a cocktail, I would start with half an ounce and scale up,” Manabat says. “Shrubs not only add brightness and an acid component, but they also add sweetness, so you want to be careful not to be too heavy-handed.”
After all, shrubs were created to help reduce waste, so you don’t want to waste precious gin by overdoing it.
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