The Spy Bar Takes Its Secrecy Seriously

A world-class Vesper headlines this hidden London speakeasy, which famously doesn’t allow photos

March 24, 2025 1:28 pm EDT
The Spill Awards for Best International Bar - The Spy Bar
Photo illustration/Raffles

This article is part of The Spill Awards 2025, covering the best in spirits, cocktails, bartenders and drinks culture. Find all of the stories here.

The Spy Bar is an extremely cool subterranean bar at Raffles London at The OWO, housed in rooms once used by M15. It’s also home to the best Vesper I’ve ever tasted. But the greatest thing about this secretive speakeasy? No photos allowed.

As a drinks writer, you can’t imagine the weight that’s lifted when you simply can’t snap a photo of a cocktail, the menu or the decor. It puts you squarely in the moment and allows you to soak in the low-lit atmosphere (wait, is that an Aston Martin in the bar?), peruse the drinks list at a leisurely pace and, you know, enjoy your cocktail with all your senses. 

The clandestine vibe is also incorporated into the drinks. “Our menu is designed to immerse guests in the rich history of The Old War Office,” says Sotiris Konomi, bar manager at The Spy Bar. “We’ve crafted 16 signature cocktails and three alcohol-free options that tell the stories of this iconic building’s past. Each drink represents a piece of liquid history, from double agents and rationing to writers and royals.”

Outside The Spy Bar; Sotiris Konomi, Bar Manager at The Spy Bar
Outside The Spy Bar; Sotiris Konomi, bar manager at The Spy Bar
Raffles London at The OWO

When I was there in August, I tried their signature drink, a Vesper. “It’s shaken, not stirred, which pays homage to 70 years of this iconic cocktail,” says Konomi, who notes there’s also an alcohol-free version. “For this version, I stuck to the core principles of the original recipe but also made some adjustments. Instead of vodka, we’ve used Honey Distillate, which, if not mistaken, we are the first bar to distill honey. Since Kina Lillet was discontinued in 1986, we created our own vermouth blend. We macerate it with fennel pollen and elderflower, then add quassia bark to recreate the original bitterness of Kina Lillet.” Overall, it’s the bar’s most popular drink with more than 600 sold each month. 

But again, you’ll want to test out the menu, which offers a lot of British history in its makeup. “Winston Churchill also makes an appearance on our menu with drinks like the Whisky Mouthwash, inspired by his morning ritual of Johnnie Walker and soda, a lighter take on whisky, which he famously enjoyed post-breakfast, Konomi says”

Other standouts include Alias (a hybrid between a Martini and a Gimlet) that combines coconut oil, rhubarb and absinthe, and a variation on the Stinger, which replaces the traditional crème de menthe with an in-house distilled Crème de After Eight chocolate liqueur and adds a touch of Brancamenta and mint oil. 

Vesper at The Spy Bar
The Signature Vesper from The Spy Bar
Raffles

For bigger spenders, you’ll find plenty of rare bottlings, vintage spirits and exclusive bottles made only for Raffles. No matter what you drink, the bar has also made it a mission to reduce single-use glass, work with B Corp-certified drinks brands (including the Scotch distillery Nc’Nean) and even reuse bar “waste” (lemons, oranges and other fruits) to craft complimentary welcome or farewell drinks. 

Now, about that no-phone policy. “It’s purely to honor the speakeasy concept,” Konomi says. “These days, you often see bars calling themselves speakeasies with huge signs pointing the way. That’s diluted the meaning. A true speakeasy should feel hidden and mysterious. Part of the magic is the feeling you’re not quite sure how to find it, but you know it’s there somewhere. I understand it’s a bold move in 2025, especially when we’re so attached to our phones. But I can confidently say it’s been worth it. Word of mouth might take time, but it’s still the most powerful and authentic form of marketing. Our no-camera policy plays a big role in that — we’ve noticed it encourages people to be more present, to enjoy their drinks, their company and the interactions with our team. It’s even brought back a bit of that old-school charm, where people start flirting again instead of just scrolling.”

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