It was a late afternoon in August, and I was coming from a fourth birthday party in Prospect Park. I was too tipsy to have the motivation to cook but was certainly hungry, so after letting my dog out, my husband and I hightailed it across Wyckoff Avenue into Ridgewood, Queens and snagged the last two bar seats at Hellbender.
We dug into guacamole, tamari-pickled shishitos and chicken milanesa with morita chile, cabbage slaw and cilantro macho mayo. But the absolute star of the meal was the head-on wild Gulf prawns drowning in habanero pineapple butter. It’s one of the best dishes I ate this year.
Hellbender never disappoints because chef/partner Yara Herrera and her team are some of the best in New York. Born and raised in Los Angeles, Herrera cut her teeth at Wolfgang Puck’s Spago and Providence before moving to New York and working beside Zack Wangeman at Sobre Masa. Hellbender, her first solo project, has received plenty of accolades since it opened in 2024, including a two-star review from The New York Times and a place on Esquire’s Best New Restaurants 2024.
When Herrera isn’t cooking up something new in the Hellbender kitchen, she’s out and about, eating her way through the city. I recently caught up with her about her most memorable meal this year, where she always ends up after midnight and her first Google search after landing somewhere new.
Amanda Gabriele: What’s your favorite restaurant in the city right now? What should I order when I go?
Yara Herrera: I am obsessed with JR & Son. Chef Patricia is so talented! I love the chopped antipasti salad, shrimp scampi and paccheri with spicy lobster.
What’s one place you almost don’t want to tell people about?
It’s no secret, but Kisa has been my go-to comfort spot this year. Delicious Korean food that reminds me of Los Angeles (if you know you know). I love that you have four options for your main course. I always go for the spicy squid, and the banchan changes often.
What’s the best thing you’ve eaten this year?
My most memorable meal was at Adda. Everything is a flavor bomb! Chef Neel is a genius, and he is so excited about food — it makes the entire experience incomparable.
Where do you always end up after midnight?
Since I work late most nights, I try to stay local and hop into a bar for a quick nightcap. I often find myself at Mr. Nancy’s, which serves burgers, hot dogs and chili until midnight. But to be honest, I work so much that I rarely stay out past midnight.
What’s the first thing you do when you land somewhere new?
I search “tacos near me.” I try to do my research ahead of time and plan efficiently, so I often have restaurants saved. Because I make Mexican food, I love to see how other places source and interpret Mexican cuisine.
What’s your ideal night out?
My ideal night out involves ordering more food than I need, an ice-cold gin Martini and at least an hour of dancing. If I’m in Ridgewood, I stop by Hellbender for the Jello of the day dessert, which we’re currently making with Violife heavy cream. It’s just as rich and creamy as real dairy milk.
What was the last concert that completely blew you away?
I listen to a lot of music in Spanish, so Fuerza Regida — an American regional Mexican band formed in San Bernardino, California — was the last concert I went to. They are categorized as norteño but incorporate several styles into their music, including corridos tumbados, for which they are considered one of the pioneer groups. It’s very specific to growing up Mexican in LA.
What’s your biggest green flag on a first date? What’s your biggest red flag?
Biggest green flag is someone who enjoys ordering the entire menu and eating for hours. I love food, I love dining and constantly eating out. Biggest red flag is someone being late. My time is very limited, and I do my best to respect others’ time.
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