When I say the words “integrated-bracelet sports watch,” what models come to mind? The Royal Oak, naturally, as Audemars Piguet kicked off the trend with that legendary model in 1972. The Patek Philippe Nautilus and Vacheron Constantin 222 are likely candidates as well, seeing as how they followed closely on the heels of AP and remain as relevant as ever today. But what about the Streamliner?
Unveiled in 2020, the Streamliner from Swiss independent H. Moser & Cie. is yet another luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet. While this might lead one to believe that the firm was simply capitalizing on the fervor for anything that evoked Gérald Genta (who designed both the Royal Oak and Nautilus), a closer examination of the collection reveals this to be a vast oversimplification.
The model does indeed feature high-end finishing, in-house movements and an assortment of sophisticated complications, yet Moser’s execution gives it a unique spin that separates it from the Royal Oak–Nautilus–222 pack. Deriving its name from the Streamline Moderne movement — an offshoot of Art Deco that focused on smooth, aerodynamic design — it uses seamless curves and mixed finishing techniques to spectacular effect, particularly within its serpentine bracelet.
Using modified H-style links, the metal band flows smoothly from piece to piece, with clean articulation that enhances both looks and comfort, and adds welcome contrast between brushed and polished surfaces. The cushion design of the Streamliner watch head further differentiates it from the octagonal trope present throughout many Genta models, while a low-slung profile helps larger references within the collection wear smaller than their dimensions would suggest. The use of Moser’s famed fumé treatment throughout the dial designs makes each reference feel special, while movements developed with the likes of Agenhor allow for free-spirited reinterpretations of common complications.
It’s little wonder, then, that the Streamliner won two prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards within four years of launch. Adventurous yet familiar, the line offers a potent mix of traits that watch collectors simply love.
This spring, Moser announced it would offer two compact interpretations of the Streamliner, in 34mm and 28mm. Given the looks prevalent on red carpets these days, there’s little point in making the case that the latter is meant strictly for female wrists: when someone like Timothée Chalamet or Tyler the Creator straps on a positively diminutive Cartier Tank with confidence, there’s no denying the fact that early 20th-century notions of men’s wristwatches are back. (For context, the famed American-made A-11 aviator’s wristwatch, issued by the hundreds of thousands during WWII, measured roughly 31mm in diameter.)
Dubbed the Streamliner Two Hands, these scaled-down, time-only executions feature only central hour and minutes hands. Both are stunning, with the 34mm version featuring a silver fumé dial treatment and the 28mm edition given a burgundy fumé dial. At the moment, each version is only available in those single colorways, though I would imagine that they will receive further executions in the future.
After falling madly in love with it during Watches and Wonders, I was kindly given the 34mm version to borrow for a few weeks — and lemme tell ya, I am loath to return it. Then again, having Interpol track me down in my apartment over a watch would be an uncomfortable turn of events.
While 39mm Streamliner executions such as the Small Seconds and 40mm executions such as the Centre Seconds tend to wear smaller than their diameters might suggest, the Two Hands 34mm feels compact and unobtrusive in the best possible way. The articulating bracelet — made of stainless steel, like the watch case — comfortably hugs the curvature of the wrist, while the tonneau case has the feeling of a jewel, like a sapphire that escaped a necklace owned by a maharaja. Measuring just 9.7mm tall, it seems to sit halfway between a traditional hand-wound dress watch and an automatic tool watch — which, in a way, it sort of is. Fitted with a screw-down crown and caseback and water resistant to 120m, it needs little babying, though its design and dimensions lend it more to al fresco dining than undersea exploration.
The beautiful proportions are matched by its captivating dial, which features a hand-engraved pattern stamped into a brass blank with a gradient lacquer fumé finish in silver. Transitioning from dark to light grey from the dial periphery inward, it positively shimmers in ambient light — a starry sky giving way to dawn. Interrupted only by Moser’s signature syringe-style handset with white Super-LumiNova, the dial certainly tells the time in a highly legible, efficient manner, but this almost seems secondary to its inherent artistic quality.
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An enamel-dial version in 39mm and a new 36mm model are poised to capture watch-nerd mindshareThe automatic cal. HMC 400 movement, visible via a sapphire caseback window, is as handsome as the Two Hands’ case and dial. It boasts an anthracite finish that mirrors the dial’s grey tone, with partially skeletonized bridges, signature Moser double-striping and a skeletonized 18K red-gold oscillating weight. Offering a 60-hour power reserve with a thickness of just 3.9mm, it was developed from the ground up specifically for these smaller-cased watches, and will serve in the future as a platform on which to build complicated pieces, possibly in concert with movement specialist Agenhor. Its regulating organ, including the balance spring and escapement components, is produced by Moser’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG.
Secured to the wrist with a butterfly clasp and a push-button closure, the new Streamliner Two Hands 34mm is an absolute joy to wear. Designed with careful consideration to mechanics, ergonomics and aesthetics, it’s clearly a high-end product, with a price tag to boot; at $27,600, it’s competing with the likes of fellow high-end independents (Parmigiani Fleurier with its Tonda PF Automatic 36mm) and established conglomerate-owned brands (Vacheron Constantin with its Overseas 34.5mm).
But for someone with the inclination to spend this much on a time-only watch, I couldn’t recommend it more. Idiosyncratic and slightly odd, it’s the type of timepiece that will still look fresh in another decade. Perhaps even another century.
H.Moser & Cie. Streamliner Two Hands 34mm Silver Fumé
Diameter: 34mm
Movement: H. Moser & Cie. cal. HMC 400 automatic
Water Resistance: 120m
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