Venice, Italy is one of the most touristed destinations in the world. The sheer density of the incoming masses is made more stark by how tiny the water-soaked getaway is and how few people live there. Only about 50,000 people call the historic city center home, the tally increasing to a quarter million with the surrounding commune, compared to the 30 million visitors who encroach upon the increasingly Disney World-ified locale each year.
While the bulk of those tourists are cruisers and day trippers, 5.7 million visitors booked an overnight stay in the city in 2023. That represents a record, eclipsing the pre-pandemic high, and signaling that theme park or not, Venice is full steam ahead. “Nothing has really changed,” says Nicolo Merlo, a tour guide with ShoMe Venice. “Everything is back to normal. If you can call Venice normal.”
Venice’s normal is different from every other normal on the planet. That’s what makes it such a special, romanticized place to visit. And yet, it’s also part of the existential crisis threatening its future. “Venice has specific problems because Venice is Venice,” Merlo says. It’s a major SNAFU, in other words. “Don’t underestimate Venice,” he continues, signaling the complicated and messy nature of the city, its fate as muddied as the waters of its canals.
But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t visit Venice. More like don’t be a dick and ruin the city for the locals. Don’t ruin it for the other tourists, while you’re at it. And actually, don’t ruin it for yourself, either. With the right approach, you can skip over some of the tourist-fueled frenzy while still soaking up the verified Venice vibes you’ve always dreamed of seeing and experiencing.
How to Get To Venice
Venice’s airport not only has a fantastic name, Marco Polo Airport, it also has one of the most scenic runway approaches in the world; your plane makes its final descent with a full view of the city and its bustling canals. The airport is well-connected to major European hubs, and Venice is easy to reach on the Italian rail network as well. It’s about 2.5 hours from Milan and four hours from Rome, so whether you’re extending a tour of the country or taking advantage of a direct flight from the United States to one of those cities, you have plenty of options.
Where to Stay
Even for a city as compact as Venice, it’s all about location. The destination is tiny, yes, but it could be logistics-heavy depending on where you end up, as you could be stuck either fighting through crowds to maneuver around or needing to always hop on the packed Vaporetto water bus service.
That’s why you head to a grand dame like Hotel Danieli. Piazza San Marco is the epicenter of Venice’s allure, and Hotel Danieli is right beside it. Walk out the hotel’s front door, and you’re there in two minutes, providing an ideal jumping off point to begin a day of exploration.
The Journey by InsideHook
Join over 100K travelers seeking trip ideas, the latest travel news, and all the inspiration you need for your next vacation.
The hotel has been open for more than 200 years, since 1822, and now consists of three historic palaces combined under one luxe roof. It’s undergoing a renovation and is planning to become part of the Four Seasons family by the end of 2025, but there’s plenty to enjoy in the meantime. That starts at the top, its rooftop Restaurant Terrazza Danieli, where you’ll find one of Venice’s most picturesque perches for a meal.
Danieli’s rooms come with a view, too. Its front-facing accommodations look straight at the islands of San Giorgio Maggiore and Giudecca across the canal, with large terraces from which to enjoy the vantage. The pro move: Grab a bottle of bubbles and sit on that terrace to savor the scene. Now those Venetian vibes are coming to life for you, aren’t they?
There’s no shortage of other luxury offerings in Venice, with different options to consider depending on your preference for location and environs. For instance, the Grand Canal setting is supreme at the iconic Gritti Palace or the luxury enclave of the Aman Venice. Or, get as far away from the crowds as you can with a stay at Helmond’s extravagant Hotel Cipriani, tucked away on Giudecca.
Venice DOs and DON’Ts
Let’s skip over the part where I tell you about Murano glass and the Ponte di Rialto and assume you can sort that on your own. Instead, here’s some guidance you can actually put to use when planning your trip to Venice.
Dip into the offseason or shoulder season: Does 30 million visitors sound like a lot to you? It does to me. And the majority of them are packed into half the year. Catch slimmer crowds with a shoulder season trip in early spring or the start of the autumn, and you’ll still have solid weather with a fraction of the headache and hassle. While certain hotels and tourist spots, especially those on the outlying islands, close down in the offseason, there’s plenty to do year-round if you decide to opt for a wintertime retreat. January is the slowest month and offers a quieter and perhaps more serene take on the Venice experience.
The Problem With the Undying Conversation About the “Death of Venice”
Though fears over overtourism and climate change are real, it’s the loss of the city’s cultural identity that weighs heaviest in the minds of VenetiansHead off the tourist trail: Merlo took us on a Hidden Venice walking tour, a recommended excursion booked via Hotel Danieli. Instead of queuing up to enter the Basilica di San Marco, the tour takes guests through residential districts and backstreets and provides a range of quirky, only-in-Venice anecdotes about its history, architecture and culture. “What is the logic of Venice? There is no logic in the end,” Merlo says. Unearthing the secret meaning of particular statues or plaques makes for a fascinating afternoon, and a few insider tips on moving around the city go a long way, as you’ll see that a quick turn off a major tourist thoroughfare may lead to a quiet, untouristed plaza around the corner.
Know your boats: Private water taxis have standardized fares, but you should still confirm what price you’re being quoted in advance. They accept credit cards. Gondolas have standardized pricing as well, but in this case, you’ll need to come armed with cash. The Vaporetto offers cheap, efficient service and can take you anywhere you want to go. The downside is the crowds, especially if you’re hauling luggage, along with the slower pace if you’re making a bunch of stops on the route. If you plan on relying upon them during your stay, you can buy a one-, two- or three-day travel card as opposed to individual fares.
Sip beyond spritz season: Yes, Venice is a renowned place for knocking back a few spritzes, but there are good options for more proper cocktailing as well. Get started at Il Mercante, where proprietor Alessandro Zampieri conceptualizes innovative, high-end menus — the first iterations were based on the travels of Marco Polo, with ingredients he picked up along the way, for instance — from within a restored, multi-level 1850s cafe. If that was your only stop, you’d be in good hands. Mission accomplished.
If you’re still thirsty, consider a visit to Arts Bar in the St. Regis Venice. The entire experience is based on the artisans and artwork of the city, with drinks presented in custom glassware by Berengo Studio. After an aperitif or two, pop over to Gio’s across the lobby for dinner that comes with a stellar Grand Canal view, while showcasing cuisine with hyper-local ingredients and modern takes on traditional dishes.
Dig into local-centric eats: There’s no shortage of fine dining in Venice, but you’d be remiss to not explore some more local-centric venues. Embark on a cicchetti crawl to learn about the art of Venetian bar snacking, featuring little handheld bites, assorted fried foods and small, open-face sandwiches. Head to Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, and you’ll find a dozen bustling venues to choose between, including El Refolo, Bar Al Vecio Calice, Bar Melograno and La Barrique.
Whatever you do in Venice, be sure to let yourself wander around. Get lost. See where that small back alley leads. Find a quieter corner to escape to. Step into a small cafe or shop. And yeah — don’t be a dick.
More Like This
This article was featured in the InsideHook newsletter. Sign up now.
