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In our post-sneaker world, the derby has made itself known as the preferred leather shoe of choice for the stylish guy — a cool, punk-leaning middle ground between the faux-dressy sneaker-dress shoe hybrids and the excessively dorky wingtips that dominate business casual footwear.
Striking a nuanced balance between formality and casualness, the derby has distinctive construction involves quarters sewn atop the vamp (the section of the shoe upper covering the forepart of your foot), resulting in an open lacing system on the shoe’s upper. The generally rounder toe of the derby marks a departure from the pointed elegance of its sister style, the oxford — a more formal style with shoelaces positioned beneath the vamp — and makes for a more robust silhouette.
While it’s a shoe that can take many forms — brogue, a boot, a split toe, a buck and myriad designer variations — and that’s before mentioning the suede variations, but for the purposes here, we chose to suggest more polished and streamlined leather silhouettes, emphasizing a shape and functionality that makes the derby the most versatile shoe in your wardrobe.
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From leather to suede and derby to loaferThere are plenty of ways to style derbies; their versatility extends to virtually any outfit that demands a touch of effort, be it chinos, jeans, corduroy trousers and, of course, tailoring. Keep them polished or allow an accruing patina from time to time that only serves to enhance their timeless charm. A classic pair of derbies is a wardrobe staple that can be confidently rocked with almost anything, and investing in a well-made pair will yield a lifetime of style if properly cared for, which is exactly why we’ve rounded up the best for you below.
The Best Leather Derby Shoes, According to InsideHook
- The Best Do-It-All Derby: Morjas The Split Toe Derby, $420
- The Best Heritage Derby: Solovair 3-Eye Gibson Shoe, $200
- The Best Affordable Derby: Quince Calfskin Leather Derby, $140
- The Best Menswear Derby: Paraboot Michael Derby Shoe, $635
- The Best Dressy Derby: Grenson Camden Polished-Leather Derby, $740
The New Do-It-All Derbies: Morjas The Split Toe Derby
Sizes: US 5.5 – 13.5 | Upper material: Grained calf leather | Construction: Goodyear welted | Fit: True to size
Don’t get us wrong — there’s a long and rich history of excellent derbies. But, in the year 2025, the derby we most want to wear comes from Morjas, a new-ish Spanish brand making waves in the DTC footwear space for their modernized leather footwear and timeless-meets-elegant-meets-wearable silos. (To their credit, the brand claims to use heritage techniques to craft their styles.) Their split toe derby in particular is excellent, with a pebbled leather shell providing an exceptionally handsome look that can be dressed with tailoring or worn casually with your favorite pair of 501s. They’re the epitome of what a derby should be. Sturdy, versatile as hell and the shoe that you continue to reach for first.
The OG English Gibsons: Solovair 3-Eye Gibson Shoe
Sizes: UK 3 – 12 | Upper material: Smooth leather | Construction: Goodyear welted | Fit: True to size
Anyone versed in derby lore should know about U.K.-based Solovair; for those uninitiated, the polished derby is a close cousin of the 1461, and (still) produced in England by the same manufacturer responsible for the original made-in-U.K. Dr Martens. It’s a workhorse of a daily derby, predicated on industry-standard accouterment — Goodyear-welt construction, thick leather and a punk sentimentality — and none of the frills, all for a reasonable $200.
The (Semi)Affordable Derby Option: Quince Calfskin Leather Derby
Sizes: US 7 – 13 | Upper material: Australian calfskin leather | Construction: Blake stitched | Fit: True to size
Quice’s anti-middleman business model may have raised some eyebrows, but the brand has proven itself to be the real deal, with budget-friendly options of all the wares you want at prices you also want, from aluminum luggage to cashmere sweaters. This includes, naturally, a pair of rakish Australian leather calfskin derbies for well under $200, a rarity when it comes to actual leather shoes. They’re not the most premium pair on the list, but with a handsome shape and Blake-stitched construction, you get what you pay for and then some.
The #Menswear Move: Paraboot Michael Derby Shoe
Sizes: EU 39.5 – 46 | Upper material: smooth leather | Construction: Norwegian welt | Fit: Runs big
The rumors are true — your favorite fashion guy’s favorite shoe is technically a derby. Paraboot’s U-shaped Michael leather shoe has come to dominate the feet of well-dressed men everywhere, and not for no reason; the heritage French brand’s quality is bar none, with the shoes crafted from premium leather and designed to be worn for decades. They’re an expensive investment, but a worthwhile one for any man looking to telegraph his intimate familiarity with the finer things in life.
The Bona-Fide Dress Derby: Grenson Camden Polished-Leather Derby Shoes
Sizes: UK 6 – 12 | Upper material: polished calf leather | Construction: Storm welt | Fit: True to size
Even among the historic canon of leather shoemakers, British label Grenson’s century-old opperation stands out, producing some of the finest leather footwear in the word. These Camdens are designed on the legendary “201” shoe last with primo leather, storm welting and and a high-shine polish that makes them ideal for the dressiest of events that still allow derbies.
A Reworked Icon: Dr. Martens Lowell Leather Moc Toe Shoes
Sizes: US 6 – 14 | Upper material: wax-coated smooth Analine leather | construction: Goodyear welted | Fit: True to size
The yellow sole stitching is an giveaway, but Dr Marten’s new Loewell Moc Toe are a notably departure form the iconic silhouette of the bulbous 1461. Still every bit as good though — they come standard with Goodyear welted construction and Doc’s instantly recognizable layered sole unit. Pair with some dark jeans, and you’ll have a crisp fall ‘fit for the ages.
A Sneaky Good Derby: Mr P. Jacques Leather Derby Shoes
Sizes: UK 7 – 12 | Upper material: smooth Cow leather | Fit: True to size
Handsome and available in an dashing oxblood, these derbies from Mr. Porter’s accessible luxury line, Mr. P, are part of their Everyday Staples collection, intending to serve as foundational building blocks for every guy’s wardrobe. The sturdy Vibram soles on these mean they can handle country roads and city streets alike with ease, although we favor them for the later, preferably with a slim, silky suit.
A Workwear Wedge Derby: Red Wing 8092 Moc Toe Derby Shoes
Sizes: UK 6 – 11 | Upper material: oiled leather | Construction: Goodyear welted | Fit: Runs big
The derby you expected? Perhaps not? The derby you deserve? Absolutely. This rugged ripple wedge sole moc-toe is about as far from a dressy British brogue derby as you can get, but that does little to impact how solid of a stomper Red Wing’s classic shoe is.
More Derbies We Love
What Do Celebs Have in Common? Love for These Leather Shoes.
Magnanni’s dress shoes have quietly dominated the red carpet, with celebs like Seth Rogen and Jake Gyllenhaal repping the footwear
Scarosso Wooster III Derby Shoe
Designed in collaboration with venerated menswear whisperer Nick Wooster, these lug-soled derbys from Scarosso do the impossible and combine wedding-friendly footwear with a “kick your teeth in” vibe.
Sanders Gibson Commando Derby
Sanders is one of the OG derby purveyors, and every ounce of their experience shines through in their tough-as-nails Gibson Commando.
Allen Edmonds Leeds Shell Cordovan Derby Dress Shoe
Most derbys look better at a bar than in the boardroom. Not these ultra-sharp Cordovan dress shoes from Allen Edmonds, though — they look right at home calling the shots.
Kleman Officier Leather Derby Shoes
Kleman may be best known for their affordable Paraboot parrot, but the French brand makes a mean lug derby.
Kenzo Paris ‘KENZOSMILE’ Leather Derby
Eagle-eyed fashion freaks will appreciate the metallic detailing on the toe cap of these massive Kenzo derbies.
Vinny’s Officer Leather Derby Shoes
Hi-shine doesn’t even begin to describe these polished leather derbies from Danish label Vinny’s.
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