I visit New Orleans every year, but I still feel like I’ve barely scratched the surface of the culinary scene. From classic Creole spots that have been around for nearly 200 years to modern eateries innovating on cuisines from Indian to Senegalese, the worthwhile restaurants are innumerable.
And yet, I have a hard time believing many establishments are more exciting than Acamaya, the coastal Mexican darling owned and helmed by chef Ana Castro, which recently appeared on North America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Think: octopus with walnut salsa negra and sunchoke escabeche, and crab sope with chiltepín mayo, avocado and cucumber.
When Ana isn’t running the kitchen at Acamaya — or sister spot Casimiro — she’s a woman about town, hitting the most enticing restaurants and bars in NOLA, from the French Quarter spot bringing back one of my favorite classic cocktails (the Brandy Crusta) to her neighborhood dive (which I can personally vouch for). I recently caught up with Ana to chat about her ideal day in New Orleans, the trip she’ll never stop talking about and the places she always frequents after midnight.
Amanda Gabriele: Where do you go when you’re trying to impress someone?
Ana Castro: In New Orleans, Jewel of the South has some of the best cocktails. The Tuxedo Tails is my personal favorite, but you cannot go wrong with a Brandy Crusta. Also, the food is excellent, and the team delivers on amazing hospitality! The bar at Mosquito Supper Club is another excellent option. Have a Martini or two along with some pickled shrimp and oysters and perhaps the Natchitoches meat pies. The restaurant is gorgeous and it encapsulates everything that makes New Orleans so special.
What’s your ideal seat in a restaurant?
Always facing the kitchen if it’s open, or a sexy banquette, especially when it’s a half circle. I am one of those “same sider” people who likes to sit next to a person instead of across when possible.
What’s the best thing you’ve eaten this year?
The tortilla Española with Osetra caviar at Chicago’s Asador Bastian. From the moment it hits the table, it’s a complete experience that is not only delicious but visually stimulating, too. It’s a bit of a show — your server will spread a generous amount of caviar evenly over the tortilla, then flawlessly cut and serve it. True luxury from start to finish.
Where do you always end up after midnight?
In New Orleans, the Saturn Bar. It’s three blocks away from my place, and the parties there are always excellent. I always run into friends or make some cool new ones. It’s a great neighborhood dive. When I’m in New York, Superbueno is a must-visit late-night spot. Every time I walk in, I feel like I’ve never left. The drinks, the music, the crew, the energy. They also have food until 1:30 a.m., so you can get a bite in when you need it. There is truly no place like it anywhere else.
What makes up your perfect day in New Orleans?
I live in the Bywater, so we will start there. Wake up late, pack a swimsuit! Go to Pond Coffee for a cortado, grab lunch at Casimiro (yes, it’s my new Mexican breakfast-lunch restaurant, but you can’t go wrong with huevos divorciados or our redfish pescadillas). Then, I’ll find a pool. Luckily, the New Orleans Country Club is right around the corner. I’ll work on my tan, and when I’ve had enough sun I’ll stop by Markey’s for a cold beer on the walk back home.
Shower and get ready to hit the French Quarter. Grab a cocktail at Cane & Table. Walk up the steps in front of Jackson Square, follow the river for a bit, stop along the way — it’s so beautiful. Head to Pêche for a seafood platter and then go to The Wine Bar at Emeril’s for barbecue shrimp. Then, the night could go a couple of ways. Let’s make our way back to the Bywater and hit up St. Roch Tavern for country or BJ’s Lounge for jazz, and a nightcap at Anna’s or NightBloom. Still hungry? Fried chicken from Hanks Supermarket it is. Still got some energy? Saturn Bar, please.
What’s one place you’d tell a friend to go this week?
It’s so hot! Grab a sno-ball at Hansen’s or Chance in Hell. Hansen’s has a wider variety of flavors, like my fave combo, satsuma and cucumber, which is so refreshing. Or a classic cream of nectar with a condensed-milk drizzle. If available, the bananas Foster is a good option, too. Chance in Hell has quirky, unexpected flavors, like sweet corn and blueberry and pickle juice. You simply cannot go wrong!
What’s one trip you’ll never stop talking about?
A few months ago I went to New York with my best friend Isabel Coss (she runs Pascual in D.C.). I was on The Today Show in the morning, and after that we had lunch at Le Bernardin. Fueled by too much Champagne, we went for a disreputable tarot reading and survived! We walked around New York, window shopping, catching up and singing. We then changed into something a bit sexier, went for caviar and Pisco Sours at our friend [Oscar] Lorenzzi’s restaurant Nuyores, grabbed a drink at Bar Snack, then met our sweet friend Fany Gerson for dinner at Smithereens. The night ended at Superbueno (after midnight!) where [owner] Nacho [Jimenez] gave us control of the playlist. That was a good day, and it had to be, since we were only there for a single one.
Which hotel bar do you think about the most?
I remember the first time I went to ViceVersa in Miami. I got out of the Uber and thought to myself, what is this hotel doing here? The space is gorgeous and the drinks are very creative and exciting but also balanced and well executed, like their signature Negroni or Puttanesca Martini. The service is excellent and super fun. The food slaps, too. The mortadella pizza is not to be missed.
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