The Best Watches of May 2024

Rolex has its Sea-Dweller. Omega has its Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. Hamilton has its Khaki Navy Belowzero, a deep-diving behemoth of an aquatic tool that lists for under $2,000. Measuring 46mm in lightweight, brushed titanium, it might not be the right watch to pair with a tuxedo — but beneath the waves, it’s the ultimate piece of kit. Water resistant to 1,000m and powered by the brand’s H-10 automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve, it features a grey, military-esque dial with large white Arabic indices and a lumed set of yellow sword hands. Of course, it also features a unidirectional, rotating dive bezel.

• Diameter: 46mm
• Movement: Hamilton H-10 automatic 
• Water Resistance: 1,000m

Inspired by the brand’s Point Series divers from the 1990s, the new ZO3559 Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver sees Zodiac teaming up with the horological cognoscenti at RedBar on a 42mm steel dive watch that’s sure to become a fan favorite. Featuring a fully lumed, pistachio-colored dial and the collection’s iconic red dot between 4 and 5 o’clock, this glowing tool is ideal for night diving — or for any occasion on which you’re inclined to wear something with a fun pop of color. With its multi-link steel bracelet, additional black and red rPet Velcro strap, classic shovel handset, and unidirectional, rotating dive bezel with black insert, it’s a perfect way to show off your passion for the watch-collecting hobby. 

• Diameter: 42mm
• Movement: STP 1-21 automatic 
• Water Resistance: 200m

In celebration of 35 years of watchmaking and the brand’s connections to the U.S. Navy SEALs, Luminox has released a trio of compelling timepieces. The RECON Point Man 8820 Heritage is particularly cool, with a 46mm Carbonox case, a combination dive-navigation bezel, and a dial featuring a tachymeter scale calibrated to measure walking speed in both mph and kph. Illuminated with the brand’s well-known Luminox Light Technology, the Point Man is named after (and is perfect for) the lead man on a recon team, who is charged with taking his men from point A to point B in the field. Powered by a Swiss quartz movement, it’s ready for any adventure.

• Diameter: 46mm
• Movement: Ronda 515 quartz
• Water Resistance: 200m

HYT’s Conical Tourbillon Panda isn’t just one of the best watches of May — it’s one of the most compelling releases of 2024. While the model itself isn’t new, the “panda” colorway lends this incredibly futuristic design a pared-down, clean aesthetic that makes it easier to read, which happens thusly: A black fluid indicator — an HYT speciality — denotes the hour, while a rotating indicator points to the corresponding minute. Positioned at the center of the watch is the namesake tourbillon, which is inclined at 30 degrees. Spinning around and with the tourbillon is a series of agate spheres moving at different rotation speeds. The net effect is nothing short of mesmerizing; and it should be, for roughly $400K. (Price below is in CHF.)

• Diameter: 48mm
• Movement: HYT 701-TC key-wound
• Water Resistance: 30m

Giorgio Galli, chief creative director at Timex, is like the Gérald Genta of affordable watches. His latest work, a collaboration with the folks at EDC company the James Brand, has yielded one of the most attractive sub-$1,000 timepieces of the year in the form of the Timex x The James Brand Titanium GMT. Housed in a C-shaped 41mm titanium case, its black dial with white indices and hands — coupled with a 24-hour bezel — is distinctly handsome, while its matching titanium H-link bracelet gives it the air of a model many times more expensive. Powered by the Miyota 9075 automatic movement, it can keep track of three different time zones given the 24-hour rehaut around the dial. (There’s also a special box set with a James Brand knife and pen available for $1,299.)

• Diameter: 41mm
• Movement: Miyota 9075 automatic
• Water Resistance: 200m

A distinctly modern take on the automatic Monaco chronograph from the late 1960s, the new TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton offers a black DLC-coated titanium case, a dark blue opaline dial with cool yellow accents, and the automatic Calibre TH20-00 movement, which is visible via a skeletonized dial. Measuring 39mm, it’s a distinctly wearable silhouette despite the large presence of the rectangular case profile, and the blue rubber and leather strap with folding clasp will add comfort on the wrist even when the weather turns muggy. Meanwhile, 80 hours of power reserve mean it’s distinctly “weekend-proof,” and 100m of water resistance ensures that you won’t have to baby it. 

• Diameter: 39mm
• Movement: TAG Heuer TH20-00 automatic
• Water Resistance: 100m

Relatively few dive watches boast skeletonized movements visible via the dial. Rado’s Captain Cook, however, not only shows off the automatic R808 movement ticking away within, but adds a deep navy blue finish to the ceramic case, plus an impressive 300m of water resistance. Meanwhile, polished bezel teeth contrast with the matte case finish, while a box-shaped sapphire crystal adds a touch of vintage-inspired flair. Tested in five positions, the R808 offers 80 hours of power reserve, while a matching blue rubber strap ensures that the watch is ready to take to the water. Illuminated with Super-LumiNova, this high-tech diver is perfect for a globetrotter who appreciates a bit of visual interest in his choice of wristwear.

• Diameter: 43mm
• Movement: Rado R808 automatic 
• Water Resistance: 300m

Founded in 2011 in Sweden, Bravur makes beautifully designed watches that feature smart pops of color and unexpected design twists. Its latest, the La Corsa Rosa IV chronograph, celebrates the Giro d’Italia bicycle race in Italy. Measuring 38.2mm in either stainless steel or black PVD-coated steel, it features a textured, black tarmac-colored dial with pink chronograph subdials, applied indices, a matching steel handset, and an outer minute track on the rehaut with reversed number “13” in pink — a clever reference to the number “13” rider in the race, who wears the number backwards on his journey to ward off bad luck. It’s powered by the Sellita SW511 automatic movement and available on several different strap types.

• Diameter: 38.2mm
• Movement: Sellita SW511 automatic
• Water Resistance: 100m

While the Retrograph Relic is sadly sold out, it’s far too cool not to bring to your attention. (And who knows — maybe you can find one on the secondary market!) A collaboration between Brew Watch Co., star chef Alton Brown and the leather workers at Billykirk, it features a unique dial designed to reference the patina that would ensue from espresso. (Brew’s chronographs are inspired by coffee culture, and feature a special scale to time an ideal espresso pull.) Utilizing a special oxidation process, each Relic dial is unique, meaning that each of the 250 units in this limited edition is a one-off piece. Billykirk, for its part, created the beautiful, Bund-like strap. 

• Diameter: 38mm
• Movement: Seiko VK64 Meca-Quartz 
• Water Resistance: 50m

Looking for a small-batch, Japanese alternative to a piece of Swiss-made haute horlogerie? Then you need to check out Naoya Hida. The company’s new 3B-1 — which will be produced in just five pieces over the course of the next year — is the classically inspired, elegant two-tone alternative to the gaudier steel and gold pieces from the 1980s. Its steel case is paired with a beautiful rose gold bezel and matching hands, while its German silver dial features a beautiful Roman hour scale and a playful lapis lazuli moon-phase display at 6 o’clock with a hand-engraved moon. Powering the watch is the hand-wound Cal. 3021LU with 45 hours of power reserve.

• Diameter: 37mm
• Movement: Naoya Hida Cal. 3021LU hand-wound 
• Water Resistance: 50m 

The world-time complication is useful and beautiful; the tourbillon is vaguely useless but highly impressive nonetheless. Combine the two — and then add countless hours of hand-enameling, engraving and other artisan processes — and the result is one hell of a watch. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 features a map of the globe in beautiful green as seen from the North Pole, beneath which is a guillochéd ocean disc decorated with 15 layers of blue-green lacquer. The pink gold case, made of multiple components, features satin-brushed, polished and micro-blasted surfaces, and the automatic, in-house cal. 948AA is constructed from 388 components. 

Diameter: 43mm

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal. 948AA automatic

Water Resistance: 50m

Price: Upon Request

Launched at the Giro d’Italia, the new Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” was designed specifically for members of the Tudor Pro Cycling Team — although surely a wide variety of wearers will appreciate its lightweight, black carbon-composite case, cycling-specific tachymeter scale, fixed 60-minute bezel, 100m of water resistance, black fabric strap and COSC-certified, automatic MT5813 movement. However, it’s the playful hot pink accents — which reference the Giro d’Italia jerseys — and the way they pop against the otherwise tactical-looking matte black colorway that make this unique take on the Pelagos FXD Chrono stand out from the crowd. 

• Diameter: 43mm
• Movement: Tudor MT5813 automatic 
• Water Resistance: 100m

Ok, fine — the object in question here is not a watch. However, European Watch Company’s The Connoisseur’s Guide to Fine Timepieces is the perfect coffee table tome for the discerning collector, filled as it is with over 300 pages of superbly photographed watches from brands such as Omega, Cartier, Patek Philippe, Rolex and more. European Watch Co., in business on Boston’s Newbury Street since 1993, is one of the Northeast’s premier sellers of pre-owned and vintage watches and always has an exceptional inventory of beautiful pieces in stock. The next time you’re looking for inspiration for a purchase, flip through The Connoisseur’s Guide to Fine Timepieces first!