Back in 2017, upstart French firm Baltic began a Kickstarter to raise funds for its first watch project. Eight years later, Etienne Malec’s company — inspired by his late father’s love of collecting vintage watches, cars and cameras — is one of the most beloved microbrands in the world. From its Bicompax chronograph to its MR micro-rotor dress watch, from its unique Prismic to its versatile Aquascaphe, Baltic’s watches provide the entry point for countless new collectors into the rarefied world of horology.
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From Unimatic to Omega, our favorite divers are highly legible, thoroughly water resistant and just plain handsomeSpeaking of the Aquascaphe dive watch platform, Baltic probably could have left this model alone and received little flak from the collector community: Sized at 38mm and packed with vintage inspiration, it provided a damn-near-perfect wearing experience, and was available in multiple executions for well under $700. In the following years, Baltic expanded the Aquascaphe lineup with other models, including a handsome GMT, a dual-crown, Compressor-style model, and bronze and titanium versions. In short, there simply wasn’t much to complain about.
Never one to rest on its laurels, Baltic has retooled the basic dive watch with its brand-new Aquascaphe MK2: Available in both 39.5mm — a half-millimeter larger than the original — and 37mm sizes, it comes in four different colorways and the brand’s typical choice of rubber strap, beads of rice bracelet or flat-link bracelet. U.S. pricing, meanwhile, is still in the typical sub-$1K territory: $737 for rubber or $815 for steel (excluding taxes). In giving collectors a choice of both smaller and more typical dive watch sizes, Baltic is covering an even wider swathe of the market, opening up its possible client base to more female collectors as well as men who prefer smaller case sizes.
Case diameter is only one part of the puzzle, however: The Aquascaphe’s architecture has itself been reworked, with the case receiving wider lugs and flatter crown guards, while vertical brushing on the lug tops replaces the circular finishing found on the “MK1” model (now known as the Aquascaphe Classic). Look carefully and you’ll notice polished finishing to the crown guards, making for a subtle bit of contrast that gives the design more sophistication. Meanwhile, the lugs themselves are drilled, allowing for quick strap or bracelet swaps in the mode of vintage watches.
Speaking of vintage watches: Baltic’s charm has long been its ability to distill down vintage influences into new models that don’t smack of “homage” — an Aquascape is most certainly not a Seamaster or a Fifty Fathoms clone, while a Bicompax isn’t a Longines 13ZN clone. The influences are there, to be sure, but they’re subtle enough to melt away into the background, giving Baltic’s models their own unique appeal. This is equally true of the Aquascaphe MK2. A look at the sapphire glass bezel insert on the 120-click unidirectional bezel: Does its sheen have some resemblance to that of an old Blancpain bezel? Sure, but not enough to cause a distraction. And what of the “Maxi Dial” with its applied, lume-filled 0.4mm “super indices” in circular and triangular form? Sure, it’s giving Tudor Sub vibes — but once again, diffused through the lens of a modern watch with a different handset and subtle changes, the net effect is one of appreciative inspiration rather than shameless copy.
Available in blue, green, grey or silver — each of which features a matching dial and bezel insert — the Aquascaphe MK2 is an undeniably handsome design suffused with utilitarian touches: There’s the reworked bezel and large crown for better grip; the Super-LumiNova BGW9-filled indices and hands for excellent legibility; and the 10.7mm case height (12.9mm including the crystal) for increased comfort. Then there’s the new Rubber Classic strap: A fresh design available in five colors, it’s slightly dressier than the Rubber Sport with its vintage Tropic inspiration, boasting a saffiano leather-like pattern with vulcanized rubber construction and stainless steel hardware. The flat-link and beads-of-rice bracelet options, meanwhile, add only 65 EUR to the watch’s price and add a touch of refinement for everyday wear. Powering the watch, meanwhile, is the Miyota cal. 9039 automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve and a 4 Hz beat rate — a relatively affordable Japanese movement, it helps keep the watch well under $1,000.
As is commonly the case with Baltic, the Aquascaphe is clearly another home run. While there are no doubt collectors out there — this writer admittedly among them — who long for a version of the Aquascaphe diver with a Swiss-made caliber, this would likely negate part of the brand’s remit, which is to offer a distinctly affordable take on vintage dive watch styling. For those who are just entering the watch-collecting hobby — or for those on their umpteenth watch but desire a handsome piece they won’t have to baby — the Aquascaphe scratches an itch that very few other watchmakers are attending to with this degree of flair.
Baltic Aquascaphe MK2
Diameter: 37mm/39.5mm
Movement: Miyota cal. 9039 automatic
Water Resistance: 200m
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