Italy was a travel hotbed this summer (literally and figuratively). It was the perfect storm of variables: Post-COVID travel crescendoing, the new season of HBO’s White Lotus — filmed at the San Domenico Palace, Taormina, A Four Seasons Hotel — airing and coupled with the rise of Tomato Girl Summer on TikTok, featuring crystal blue waters in Capri and mouthwatering plates of homemade pasta. But the influx of tourists caused prices to sky-rocket, particularly in already popular destinations like Southern Italy and Rome, and it became nearly impossible to get a true, authentic Italian experience.
Enter the city of Lucca. Located in Tuscany, Lucca has been, to this point, spared the commercialization that many other, bigger Italian cities have not. Dating all the way back to Roman times, the city is surrounded by Renaissance walls, originally built to protect the city from attacks, that are still intact. (They’ve since taken on a new purpose, serving as a place for visitors to ride bikes or walk for some of the best views of the city and surrounding countryside.) Medieval architecture — towers, palaces and churches chief among them — have all been preserved, making it feel like you’ve entered a living time capsule that drips Italian culture.
So whether it’s the first or last stop on your Italian getaway, this guide to lesser-known Lucca will give you a true taste of this magnificent city.
How to get to Lucca
To get to Lucca, your best bet is going to be to fly into Pisa (a 25-minute drive away) or Florence (two hours away), though it really depends on what else is on your itinerary.
Pro tip: It’s extremely easy to navigate Tuscany yourself, via rental car. If you return to Florence afterwards, there’s a central train station that you can take either north to Milan or south to Rome — choose your own adventure!
What to see and do in Lucca
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro: In the center of town, and once a Roman amphitheater, the oval-shaped space is now the hub for colorful buildings, restaurants and boutique shops.
San Martino (The Cathedral of Lucca): Here you’ll find exemplary architecture at every turn as well as Volto Santo, a wooden crucifix of religious significance. If you’re in Lucca in September, there’s a Holy Cross Celebration, where the streets are lined with candles and lamps.
Go on a local horse carriage ride: There’s a young local woman named Marika whose business relies heavily on her horses, Mario and Luigi. Between the three of them, they offer tourists rides through the city, with the horses playfully poking their heads into nearly every storefront in pursuit of treats from shop owners.
Explore Lucca on foot: Lucca is a very walkable city, but still big enough to get a little lost. There are an array of different shops selling leather goods and handmade souvenirs, as well as cafés and plenty of authentic, Italian gelato shops. You can choose to venture on your own or with a local guide for a fuller experience.
Ride a bike on top of the city walls: As previously mentioned, you can ride bikes or walk on the top of the famous walls of Lucca. It’s the perfect way to spend an afternoon: biking, sightseeing and even picnicking.
Partake in Prelude of Existence: Grand Universe Lucca offers a truly unique guest experience, where a local composer will actually write you your very own custom prelude based off your personality traits. After spending some time getting to know you, they’ll play your customized theme song for you before giving you the written music to take home as a souvenir.
Visit Puccini Museum: If you don’t know who Giacomo Puccini is, you will after your visit to his home. The last of a dynasty of composers from Lucca, Puccini enrolled in music classes at the age of 10 before going on to become the most famous composer of his time. He passed away in 1924, but his legacy is alive and well in Lucca.
Guinigi Tower: Looking above at the city skyline, the Guinigi Tower is a bit mesmerizing. It’s tall and thin in diameter, yet there’s a full rooftop garden replete with oak trees. Visitors can climb to the top for stunning views.
Go to an outdoor opera: If you’re in the market for a 30-minute drive to the coast, you can experience The Festival Puccini — an annual opera festival held in an open-air theater. There, you can also tour Puccini’s second home, which was transformed into a museum by his son in 1925. You won’t find many Americans in the audience of the three-act opera, but don’t worry — if you don’t speak Italian, there are screens with subtitles to follow along.
I Went to Rome and Opened the Sistine Chapel. You Can Too.
It’s just one of the many tours offered by City Experiences that feels like it shouldn’t be available to the public, and yet somehow is.
What to eat and drink
La Linea: Obviously Italy is known for their pizza, and La Linea is slinging some of the most authentic Italian pies. With outdoor seating on a quaint street, it doesn’t get anymore Italian than this.
Sommita’ Martin Champagne Rooftop Bar: Opened just last year atop Grand Universe Lucca, it’s the first Martin Orsyn-branded terrace in Italy. Here you can enjoy cocktails, pre-dinner bites and primetime people watching.
Legacy: This restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, is located on the first floor of Grand Universe Lucca. Start your morning like a local by grabbing a table along the sidewalk and an espresso.
All’Olivo: Located inside one of the historical squares of Lucca, this restaurant is both authentic, and perfect for wine lovers. (Reminder that you are in Tuscany, so you can’t go wrong with any of the local vintages.) The restaurant is divided into four sections: “Sala dei vini” (the wine room), “Sala giardino” (the garden room), “Sala caminetto” (the fireplace room) and “Sala privé” (the private room).
Pasticceria Taddeucci: If you’re looking for the perfect cafe, this is it. Originally opened in 1881, you’ll find traditional pastries here, like cakes and biscuits and, of course, espresso.
Ristorante Giglio: This Michelin-starred restaurant self-identifies as a mosaic, where the chefs, the waiters, the diners, the ambiance, the menu and drinks all come together to create a cohesive vision. More than just a dinner, it’s an experience.
Trattoria da Ubaldo: This may not be for everyone, but if you’re looking for a bizarre-yet-intriguing place with odd decor (think skulls and sex symbols) for a fun nightcap, add it to your list.
Gelateria Veneta Lucca: There are no shortage of authentic gelato shops in Italy, but this one has our vote. With so many different flavors to try, you’ll want to pick up some scoops after every meal.
Where to stay
Grand Universe Lucca: This 55-room hotel has lived quite a few lives, from a glass-blowing workshop to a noble residence. It couldn’t be more central, with views of two central squares (Piazza del Giglio and Piazza Napoleone), and while it’s got a restaurant and rooftop bar on-site, it’s just steps from streets full of restaurants, cafés and shops. Guests are able to enjoy plethora of amenities, from bicycle rentals to walking tours and more.
Grand Universe La Residenza: If you have a larger number of guests or want something a bit more exclusive, this newly-opened property is the sister residence to Grand Universe Lucca, offering a luxurious experience of apartment-style accommodations to make you really feel like a local.
After you’ve explored Lucca, the world is your oyster — you can travel further north into Tuscany, to Florence as a jumping off point to Cinque Terre, Rome or Milan. That said, if you head south to Sicily, you’re sure to find yourself missing the serenity (read: lack of tourists) on tap in Lucca.
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