Tower of Power

By The Editors
April 1, 2013 9:00 am

In order to raise any eyebrows these days, new supper clubs must let you, like an enterprising foodie, boldly dine where no man has dined before.

Well, we guarantee you’ve never dined like this.

Introducing Vattentorn: an invite-only supper club inside a refurbished rooftop water tower in the heart of Brooklyn, taking new members now.

Held in a tower of unknown locale (new members receive directions upon acceptance), Vattentorn conveys lucky guests to the dining room via an antique rope-and-pulley dumbwaiter.

Presiding inside: Thomas Sätermannen, the chef behind celebrated Stockholm boîte Förvrängd, #2 on Bon Appétit’s “Restaurants That Are Hard to Find.”

Vattentorn has just 16 hand-carved seats around the tower’s interior, all facing the wall. “Conversation is permitted,” says Sätermannen, “though only whispers or shouting. Nothing in between.”

Waiters in waxed-burlap ponchos ferry plates of Sätermannen’s famed “Scandi-navy-yard” cuisine, including barrio-farmed chicken stuffed with berated herring and suntanned rabbit rillettes “lightly slapped” with Bushwick horseradish and swollen chickpeas.

Entertainment, meanwhile, is provided by an all-blind blues quartet from Tennessee’s Blue Ridge Mountains, “Please do not converse with them,” implores Sätermannen, “they have been told they are playing the Plaza Hotel.”

Vattentorn’s rotating cocktail list features unique spirits like wool-filtered moonshine and “angry” bourbon distilled from a combination of imported grain and wolf saliva. Drinks are served over rainwater ice-cubes in partially-broken Mason jars. Cautions a deadpan Sätermannen: “Protective eyewear is suggested, but not provided.”

We told you you’d be dining boldly.


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