Planning a Trip to Peru? Do Yourself a Favor and Skip Machu Picchu.

If you like authentic food, conversations with locals and real cultural experiences, we have something better for you.

August 14, 2023 6:34 am
Scenes from our llama trek in the Vilcanota.
Scenes from the writer's llama trek in the Vilcanota.
Andy Cochrane

Before you start trolling me, hear me out. Yes, Machu Picchu is one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Yes, it is a breathtaking feat of ancient engineering, a foundational part of Inca history, and incredibly scenic and beautiful. I’m not denying any of that.

But…the mountaintop ruins of Machu Picchu are claustrophobically crowded, seeing 1.2 million annual visitors in a relatively small area. They’re also expensive to visit compared to nearby options and, for anyone who likes novelty, severely scripted. Guides take you on a prescribed loop, recite the same talking points and place a huge emphasis on helping you get the perfect Instagram shot. That’s all fine and well, just not my cup of tea. Perhaps it’s not yours, either.

Alternatively, you could skip Machu Picchu for something off the beaten path. This may sound blasphemous, but, trust me, it’s not.

Tourism is Peru’s third biggest industry and there are plenty of small towns and villages that rely on this income to stay afloat — with the pandemic and recent political unrest, many of them are struggling. To help you visit one of these local hidden gems, here are three different travel ideas near Cusco:

Andy Cochrane

Start By Finding a Knowledgeable Guide

When I was young, cheap and traveled internationally with just a backpack, I never hired a guide. In some ways this is just as appealing today, using the internet as a resource for food, accommodations, and experiences. Yet, over the years I’ve learned that nothing beats local knowledge; even the top travel websites and agencies know far less than those who live, work, and play in these places daily. The value of a guide easily offsets the cost — the experience is much more immersive.. 

Here’s an Authentic Peruvian Ceviche Recipe You Can Whip Up Stateside
Ceviche, Peru’s national dish, is celebrated in the country every summer
Andy Cochrane

A good guide will allow you to enter homes, sit down for meals and eat traditional food, and be part of rituals that have been around for centuries. This is the core reason I travel these days, to search out moments of human connection that bring us closer together. Plus, selfishly, hiring a guide allows me to relax more, without having to worry about juggling logistics, schedules, or bartering in a foreign language. 

If you’re heading to Cusco, reach out to Jose Condor and his guiding company, Peru by Locals, which specializes in treks and tours, Incan traditions, medicine, and history, and exploring places that few others know about. Jose grew up in a mountain village near the Sacred Valley and is fluent in Quechua, Spanish, and English. He studied tourism at University and has been guiding for nearly two decades. Below are our top three boutique trip suggestions, for all types of adventures.

Andy Cochrane

Hidden Gems to Explore in Peru

Llama trekking around Rainbow Mountain. For those interested in a multi-day hiking adventure — and a good replacement for the Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu — a visit to the Cordillera Vilcanota is worth your time. After a three-hour drive from Cusco you’ll arrive at a popular destination called Rainbow Mountain, which opened in 2015. This is what most people come to see, but just the tip of the iceberg for you.

Instead of fighting the crowds on a day hike at Rainbow, the richer way to see this area is trekking with llamas on a two- or three-night adventure. This region is inhabited by small llama and alpaca herding communities who trade with farmers at lower elevations. Jose builds personalized itineraries through the maze of local trails and will bring a small support crew to cook traditional meals, set up and break down camp each day, and facilitate a safe and fun trip. Llama trekking truly is an experience like no other.

Andy Cochrane

Food and culture in the Sacred Valley. For those looking for a slower pace and deeper culinary experience, we recommend an homestay in the Sacred Valley, a region in the Andean highlands. Just an hour north of Cusco, this fertile valley played a crucial role for the Inca, growing most of the maize for the empire. The valley is littered with lesser known archaeological sites to visit, too.

Close to his childhood home and deeply tied in with the local communities, Jose organizes immersive food experiences with local farmers, offering guests a first-hand look at traditional agriculture and, of course, a chance to try delicious Peruvian dishes like Lomo Saltado, Rocoto Relleno and Cuy.

Mountain bike tours near Cusco: For adrenaline seekers, a great way to explore the singletrack trails on the hills surrounding Cusco is by bike. Many of these routes were once Incan footpaths, giving you a chance to ride through ancient history and learn about Incan architecture with Jose as your guide. As an avid mountain biker, Jose guides small groups on custom day tours, accommodating your skill level, schedule, and fitness level. Cusco is based at 11,000, so biking can be challenging!

Andy Cochrane

Final Verdict: Go Off the Beaten Path

While it may sound like heresy to skip Machu Picchu on any trip to Peru, a deeper dive proves otherwise. There are a wide variety of lesser-visited options that give you a more authentic and immersive experience. Whether you’re looking to learn about the history of the Incan Empire, eat traditional food, or experience Peruvian culture, the better decision is to go off the beaten path. 

Hiring a guide like Jose Condor unlocks an entirely new suite of options, from llama trekking in the Vilcanota, to spending a day with traditional farmers in the Sacred Valley, or mountain biking ancient footpaths around the Incan capital of Cusco. All you need to decide is which one fits you best.

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