Nancy Silverton Is Reviving Her Late-Night Grilled Cheese Shop
In a former life, the LA legend was a humble sandwich maker
Nancy Silverton is a bona fide superstar of the L.A. culinary world.
James Beard Awards, Michelin Stars, Jonathan Gold paeans, her own episode of Chef’s Table … she’s got it all. And if you haven’t had the chance to see (that is, taste) her genius firsthand, then prepare yourself for her latest triumph.
Start today and running indefinitely from Sunday through Thursday, Silverton is bringing back her fabled late-night grilled cheese sandwiches to Pizzeria Mozza.
To understand the importance of this, we have to take you back in time, to 1998. Silverton was then chef-owner of Campanile, one of the crown jewels the city’s culinary scene. On a bit of a lark, she started a “Grilled Cheese Night,” which quickly took the town by storm. The Today Show called it “The godmother of grilled cheese sandwiches.” The LA Times called them “special,” adding that the “bold, vibrant flavors encompass everything [we] love.”
Now, some 20 years later, grilled cheese night has returned. Five versions are on the menu, from a croque monsieur that rivals Petit Trois to the original Caryl’s grilled cheese with pickled onions, melted gruyere and whole-grain mustard. The soft-open (which has regrettably passed) combined Nancy’s cheeses with Slab owner/BBQ savant Burt Bakman’s beautiful beef brisket.
If you’re fixing to go, be sure to download foodie app Off The Menu first — members can cut the line today, when Nancy’s grilled cheese night returns to the general public.
These sandwiches are part of Los Angeles food history, and anyone with a semblance of interest in the people, places and portions that have pushed the local dining scene to its current exalted status should feel compelled to attend.