Whether it’s the coincidence with the WatchTime NY, WindUp NY, and Geneva Watch Days trade shows; the back-to-school spirit in the air; or any other number of important, zeitgeisty happenings, Fall ‘23 is certainly one for the books. From historical (and affordable!) dive watches to gorgeous chronographs to automatic field watches, we’re facing an embarrassment of riches in the form of timepieces of all types: High-end, entry-level, small, large, field, dive, chrono — everything. Basically, if you can’t find something you love on this extra-long list of 14 pieces, you might need to start collecting something other than watches!
Happy fall, and enjoy this look into some of the month’s best wristwear.
Benrus Ultra-Deep
In the 1960s, the “super compressor” watch case was devised as a means of improving watertightness — as a diver descended, the water pressure would actually increase the case’s water resistance. Though simple screw-down crowns and casebacks proved to be better solutions for water resistance, the super compressor’s unique profile — with its dual crowns controlling an internal rotating bezel in addition to winding/setting — made for a lovable aesthetic. The new Benrus Ultra-Deep reimagines one of the classic Super Compressor designs in a highly faithful reissue, complete with a 36.5mm stainless steel case, an automatic Swiss movement from Soprod, and 200m of water resistance. With its included stainless steel Jubilee-style bracelet and blue nylon NATO strap, it’s a heck of a bargain at $1,095.
- Diameter: 36.5mm
- Movement: Soprod P024 automatic
- Water Resistance: 200m
- Price: $1,095
Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition
2018’s Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical provided a much-needed reset in the watch industry. Here was a handsome, military-inspired, hand-wound field watch in a vintage-inspired size — from a large, historical watch brand owned by a big luxury conglomerate — for $500. Now, five years after the “FKM” brought untold thousands into the watch-collecting fold, the Khaki Field Expedition is poised to do the same. Available in both 37mm and 41mm versions, this automatic sequel boasts a compass bezel for navigation, several different dial colors, and multiple strap options. Though it’s more expensive than the KFM, its good looks, practical movement choice, and wide availability are sure to make it a hit.
- Diameter: 37mm; 41mm
- Movement: Hamilton H-10 automatic
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Price: $995-$1,045
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Act III
Following on the heels of two models released earlier this year (“Act I” and “Act II”), Blancpain has put the finishing touches on its 70th-anniversary celebration of the Fifty Fathoms. Dubbed the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act III, the new watch is a solid-gold tribute to the Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC, a military-approved version of one of the world’s first commercially available dive watches. Housed in a 9N yellow gold case and sporting a ceramic bezel insert, the Act III features the MIL-SPEC’s most identifiable feature: a bi-color moisture indicator applied directly to the dial. While it’s doubtful that one would need this safety functionality today, it’s a nice aesthetic touch — and a fitting way to pay tribute to a timepiece that ushered in the era of modern SCUBA diving.
- Diameter: 41.3mm
- Movement: Blancpain Calibre 1154.P2 automatic
- Water Resistance: 300m
- Price: $32,000
Spaceview 2020 x RedBar Group Limited Edition
When Accutron launched in 1960, its electronic movement was a revelation. Though it was fairly quickly superseded by quartz-powered technology, the unique movement architecture proved fascinating to watch collectors, who were delighted when the brand relaunched with the Spaceview 2020. Now, RedBar Group is releasing a special, limited-edition version of the Spaceview 2020 with red accents in celebration of the watch collector community. Measuring 43.5mm in stainless steel, it features a smoked grey, openworked dial that allows one to view the sophisticated movement within. Shipping on a stainless steel bracelet, it also includes a black leather strap with RedBar-themed red leather stitching. Limited to just 60 pieces, this is one you should nab before it disappears forever.
- Diameter: 43.5mm
- Movement: Accutron electrostatic
- Water Resistance: 50m
- Price: $4,200
IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Lewis Hamilton
Formula 1 world champion Lewis Hamilton is a longtime IWC fan and brand ambassador. The new Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Lewis Hamilton, his third collaboration with the Schaffhausen-based maison, is a stunning amalgam of fine materials, useful complications, and haute horlogerie tropes that are sure to put a smile on any watch lover’s face — and an even bigger smile on the faces of 44 lucky collectors with a spare $169,000. Encased in 43.5mm of platinum, the watch contains a one-minute tourbillon (which can be completely stopped for accurate time-setting purposes), a combination 60-minute and 12-hour chronograph totalizer, and a retrograde date display. A gorgeous teal dial featuring Hamilton’s logo matches a teal textile strap, while 12 diamonds form the dial’s indices.
- Diameter: 43.5mm
- Movement: IWC Calibre 89900 automatic
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Price: $169,000
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Ops
In 2001, Ulysse Nardin turned the watch world on its head by introducing a timepiece without traditional hands, a traditional dial, or a winding crown. 2019’s Freak X toned down this outlandish design somewhat by reintroducing a crown, making for a watch that was still unconventional, but that better appealed to the masses. Now, the brand has expanded the X sub-collection with the Freak X Ops, an adventure/military take on a fascinating platform that combines a whole host of notable features: First up is a 43mm case formed from black carbon fiber and green epoxy resin; next is the Caliber UN-230 manufacture movement, which employs a flying carousel system that rotates around its own axis to form the hands; finally, a silicon escapement and balance wheel provide excellent magnetic resistance and timekeeping. The results are eye-catching, technologically advanced, and utterly captivating — everything you could want in a modern watch.
- Diameter: 43mm
- Movement: Caliber UN-230 Manufacture automatic
- Water Resistance: 50m
- Price: $33,800
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Panerai Luminor BiTempo Titanium DLC New York Edition
In celebration of the brand’s new Madison Avenue boutique in Manhattan, Panerai has released a special-edition Luminor BiTempo with GMT functionality, a DLC-clad titanium case, and a caseback featuring the Brooklyn Bridge. Measuring 44mm, this blacked-out, travel-ready version of Panerai’s famous dive watch features the collection’s signature crown protection device adorned with “New York” on the lever, plus a cool black “sandwich” dial that matches the case complete with tone-on-tone grey indices, hand tips, sub-seconds display, and date window typography. Powered by the brand’s automatic Calibre P.9010/GMT, it packs a 3-day power reserve, 300m of water resistance, and comes on a matching, recycled grey PET strap. Stealthy and handsome, it’s the perfect piece of Manhattan-ready wristwear.
- Diameter: 44mm
- Movement: Panerai Calibre P.9010/GMT automatic
- Water Resistance: 300m
- Price: $12,700
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph
Though the dive chronograph category is steadily expanding, it’s still limited relative to the embarrassment of time-only divers from brands both large and small. Oris’s newest Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph is an excellent choice for someone who wants a highly water resistant chrono at a smaller size — its newly retooled 40mm case easily fits a wide variety of wrists, and its good looks, utilitarian feature set, and choice of steel “rivet”-style bracelet or black deer leather strap make it a versatile choice for land or sea. A dual-register chronograph layout, packed with bright Super-LumiNova and powered by the automatic Oris Calibre 771 movement, provides excellent timekeeping, while a unidirectional, rotating dive bezel makes timing discrete events a cinch. In short: If you’re looking for a dive chrono, you can’t do much better than this.
- Diameter: 40mm
- Movement: Oris Calibre 771 automatic
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Price: $4,200-$4,400
Bulova Oceanographer GMT
Bulova’s Oceanographer series of affordable, automatic “Devil Diver” watches is getting a welcome addition of three colorful GMT models. Powered by the Swiss-made, automatic Miyota Caliber 9075, each features an independently adjustable local 12-hour hand for quick time zone changes while traveling. What’s more, each also features both a unidirectional dive bezel as well as a 24-hour scale on the dial, meaning that dive timing functionality is maintained alongside GMT functionality. Housed in a 41mm stainless steel cushion case, the Oceanographer GMT comes in a “root beer” configuration with a black and brown bezel and a rose gold-tone case and bracelet; a “lume” variant with a gunmetal IP case and bezel combined with a monochromatic dial dial; and a “Pepsi” version with a bi-color red and blue bezel, stainless steel case, and blue dial.
- Diameter: 41mm
- Movement: Miyota Caliber 9075 automatic
- Water Resistance: 200m
- Price: $1,295-$1,395
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean ETNZ Edition
Omega is anticipating its participation as official timekeeper in the 2024 edition of the America’s Cup in Barcelona with a watch that celebrates Emirates Team New Zealand, the regatta’s defending champions. Dubbed the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean ETNZ Edition, it’s a highly water resistant, durable chronograph done up in the team’s black and blue livery and kitted out with a regatta timer — a function that allows the wearer to precisely time the countdown to a race. Boasting the brand’s NAIAD LOCK caseback as well as a helium escape valve, the Planet Ocean is a serious diver as well as a functional chronograph, boasting a whopping 600m of water resistance in addition to the brand’s super advanced Master Chronometer Calibre 9900 automatic movement.
- Diameter: 45.5mm
- Movement: Omega Master Chronometer Calibre 9900 automatic
- Water Resistance: 600m
- Price: $13,300
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint X Porsche
Continuing its relationship with Porsche that began in 2021, TAG Heuer has released two new versions of its beloved Carrera chronograph that feature automotive-inspired dials, a new automatic movement, and a case available in stainless steel or 5N rose gold. 60th-anniversary tributes to both the original Heuer Carrera as well as the Porsche 911 (also dubbed “Carrera”), the fresh Chronosprint models are powered by an updated version of TAG Heuer’s automatic TH20 movement called the TH20-08, which has a unique feature: When the chronograph is engaged, the seconds hand first accelerates quickly, then slows, and finally restarts, mirroring a 911’s acceleration to 100 km/h over 9.1 seconds. Furthermore, two of the watch’s three subdials feature “redline” printing, mirroring gauges on a vintage racing automobile.
- Diameter: 42mm
- Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre TH20-08 Automatic
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Price: $9,200-$23,550
Blancpain X SWATCH Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms
The sequel to Swatch’s 2022 MoonSwatch collaboration with Omega, the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms recreates that watch’s magic in dive watch form — but this time, it’s automatic, powered by Swatch’s Sistem51 movement. The Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms, currently available in five different iterations, is a 42.3mm, $400 version of Blancpain’s ultra-luxury dive watch, which launched in 1953 and coincided with the beginning of recreational SCUBA diving. Large and colorful, each comes paired to a NATO-style strap, features a 120-click dive bezel, and boasts 50m of water resistance. (They even feature 4:30 date windows, much like many of their higher-end brethren.) While demand doesn’t seem to be as high as that for the MoonSwatch, lines have been forming around the world at Swatch stores, signaling that the horological version of Beanie Baby madness is very much here to stay.
- Diameter: 42.3mm
- Movement: SWATCH Sistem 51 automatic
- Water Resistance: 50m
- Price: $400
Grand Seiko SBGJ273
The latest in a long line of Grand Seiko references that celebrate the changing of the seasons, the SCGJ273 features a gorgeous, striated red dial that “calls to mind the way lacquered wooden floors in a traditional Japanese building reflect the leaves of outside maple trees.” Clocking in at a highly versatile 39.5mm, this isn’t a highly water resistant tool watch by any means, but its hi-beat GMT functionality — powered by the Grand Seiko 9S86 movement — makes for an excellent travel companion, while its matching, stainless steel bracelet ensures a comfortable wearing experience. Elegant and innovative, the SCGJ273 provides a compelling alternative to the more pedestrian GMT fare of Swiss watchmaking.
- Diameter: 39.5mm
- Movement: Grand Seiko 9S86 automatic
- Water Resistance: Splash resistant
- Price: $7,100
Zenith Chronomaster Original Black Tricolor Dial
It’s tough to argue with a watch as handsome, technologically groundbreaking, and historically important as the Zenith El Primero. Though it comes in many guises, one of the most classic and desirable is the vintage A386, a watch that has served as the basis of many a revival model since its introduction in the late 1960s. Though this new iteration is largely just a black-dialed take on the A386’s famed tricolor aesthetic, it’s simply too damn good looking not to highlight: Indeed, with its blue and grey chronograph totalizers, matching steel bracelet, and well sized 38mm case — not to mention its El Primero hi-beat movement — it may be one of the most compelling chronograph offerings on the market.
- Diameter: 38mm
- Movement: Zenith El Primero 3600
- Water Resistance: 50m
- Price: $9,500-$10,000
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