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As a broad-shouldered but otherwise wiry 5’9”’ freak, I’ve struggled with sizing for the entirety of my adult life. A small is too small, a medium makes me look like I’m wearing a sleep shirt, and don’t even get me started on trying to find a dressy button-up that helps me straddle the razor-thin line between pint-sized powerlifter and disheveled ninth-grade science teacher.
So when I heard about a purportedly high-quality, customizable sport coat from NYC-based menswear newcomers Onsloe Curated, I jumped at the chance to try the process out. Founded in 2020 and branded as a “made-to-order menswear brand committed to providing best-in-class quality,” the budding brand had me intrigued.
Now, to be fair, the concept of Onsloe isn’t really revolutionary. In essence, it’s a DTC suiting company. But for better or for worse, the process has certainly been streamlined from the traditional trip to the tailor. You order from their webstore, they use quality fabrics that are cut and sewn by trained tailors to craft specially designed clothing and ship it right to your door. It’s all made to order.
And because of the idiosyncratic nature of the process, the jackets can also be constructed out of unique fabrics that aren’t available for large-scale runs. From Japanese looms to the last of the U.K. wool mills, Onsloe boasts thoughtful and responsible sourcing. This means no leftover stock, too, which in turn translates to less waste — a beacon of hope in a world of fast fashion — albeit sans the two-day turnaround certain retail giants might promise.
However, I’m a bit of a cynic at heart, and having been burned by years of ill-fitting menswear, I came in skeptical about what the end product might look like. Buzz terms like “made-to-order” and “on-demand” sound like the future of clothing but oftentimes leave much to be desired.
With a clear eyes, full heart and measured expectations, I hit the Onsloe website to pick up one of their customizable sport coats. Retailing between $325-$495, there are dozens of styles to choose from, spanning the color palette and featuring materials ranging from corduroy to houndstooth to (my personal favorite) luxuriously soft cashmere. Being a man of impeccable taste and also tethered to an appreciation of the finer things in life, I opted for the later.
After choosing the style, it was time to address sizing, which went far better than I thought it would. Most jackets available in a wide range of sizes (from 36-50) and come in short/regular/long configurations for the short-kings and giants among us.
And the customization options don’t end there. Offerings include welt or patch pockets (I went with welt), single- or double-vented at the back (the former felt more classic) and, of course, a monogram add-on (my inside-right pocket is proudly emblazoned with a P.S. in white needlework).
The jacket arrived at my door after a week and some change, and I’ve been wearing it ever since. The cut is handsome and fairly trim, the cashmere lives up to its sacred reputation, and the 39-short I ordered is just the right size for my disproportionate frame. I’m no JFK, but with a Ralph Lauren oxford and my worn-in loafers, there’s perhaps some room for a John-John comparison.
My biggest complaint with the blazer is one that exists for virtually any garment: fit. All in all, I’d give the coat an eight out of ten for sizing: while my blazer is a good length and fits like a glove in the shoulders, the waistline is a bit wide and I’ll most likely get it taken in. It’s by no means a catastrophe, but for a $500 blazer, it misses the mark by a hair.
I’m also pretty attuned to my measurements, as it’s quite literally my job, but finding your sizing in the first place can be tricky, and I can imagine that if you were unsure if you were a 43-regular or a 42-long, it could feel overly ambitious to drop a couple hundred on a custom blazer.
For suiting, there’s no substitute for an in-person fitting. But Onsloe’s sizing is pretty close to spot on. If you’re reasonably confident about what size you need, Onsloe offers enough in terms of fabrics, patterns and personal touches to be worth a look.
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