Table Stakes: September

To keep tabs on every San Francisco restaurant and bar opening is folly. But to keep tabs on the most worthy? Yeoman’s work, and we’re proud to do it. Thus we present Table Stakes, a monthly rundown of the five (or so) must-know spots that have swung wide their doors in the past thirty (or so). Bon appétit.

Mezcalito
Russian Hill
Three words: almost 50 mezcals. Maybe you’re a connoisseur of the difference between mezcal and its close cousin, tequila; maybe you don’t know your agave from your piña. No matter: get there before 6:30 for the $9 happy hour mezcal margaritas (or, if we’re honest, the $7 caipirinhas), a side of guac ‘n’ chips and a plate of oysters. Perfección.

2323 Polk Street (map)
mezcalitosf.com

Old Devil Moon
Mission/Bernal Heights
Hush puppies (with honey butter), po boys (with fried green tomatoes, fried oysters or other deliciousness), plus an aggressively informed rotation of craft beers selected by the three cicerones on staff. If you can do better than an afternoon on Old Devil Moon’s patio, you let us know.

3472 Mission Street (map)
olddevilmoonsf.com

Forage Kitchen
Oakland
“Makers” dreaming of their first big food projects can sign up for Sunday access to Forage Kitchen’s extensive co-working facilities for just $99 a month — and expect everyone from them to the pro-level members to congregate between projects at the new on-site café.

478 25th Street, Oakland (map)
foragekitchen.com

The Miranda
Oakland
The fancy-pants Miranda takes both its design cues and its menu inspiration from a hotel lounge, which is why you’ll see cocktails like the Calvados-centric Bell Hop and Staycation (Pimm’s, falernum, ginger) on the cocktail list.

1739 Broadway, Oakland (map)
facebook.com/themirandabaroak

Dancing Bull
Inner Richmond
Already up to date on Korean bulgogi? Maybe not? For the uninitiated, it involves marinated, grilled beef. For fans, it’s heaven. Dancing Bull is packing them in, thanks to its reliance on grills imported from South Korea that cooks meat on top and simmers other ingredients along the side. It’s the detail that makes all the difference.

4217 Geary Boulevard (map)
instagram.com/dancingbull_sf