The Hong Kong Dial II Melds a Chinese Dial and Scottish Design

In the 1940s, Rolex advertised what it called an “Error Proof Dial” with Roman numerals on its upper half, Arabic numerals on its lower half, dash indices at three, six and nine o’clock, and a triangle at 12 o’clock. Meant to increase legibility, this dial type was used on several Panerai references designed for the Italian military, as well as numerous Rolex “Bubbleback” models, after which it largely disappeared. Today, it’s known as the “California” dial because back in the 1980s, Kirk Rich Dial Company, based in Los Angeles, began restoring vintage Error Proof-dial watches using its massive inventory of thousands of original dies; the catchy name stuck.

The California dial is coming back around these days, but not always in the way you might expect. Some companies are riffing on its unique looks using numerical systems other than Arabic, making for cool, left-of-center takes on a popular motif that don’t cost thousands of dollars at auction. (Vintage watch expert Eric Wind once conveyed that perhaps only one in every 15 to 20 Error Proof-style Bubbleback watches features an original dial, hence the sky-high prices for good examples.) One of the coolest such watches is the new Hong Kong Dial II, the result of a mashup between Hong Kong-founded menswear brand The Armoury and Glasgow-based Paulin Watches, sister company to enamel-dialed watch brand anOrdain.

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Rather than using a standard “California” dial, the two brands honored The Armoury’s Hong Kong roots by turning the Arabic numerals on the dial’s lower half into Chinese characters. Like the original Hong Kong dial, it’s available in several bright and cheery colorways and uses Paulin’s nifty Modul A tonneau-shaped 35mm case. More than just a ‘70s-inspired profile, it boasts modular construction that allows Paulin to fit it with different types of movements, from quartz to hand-wound to automatic. (It’s constructed with a black steel body that houses the movement of choice, upon which is fitted a brushed steel outer case that’s attached via screws on either side. Pretty cool!) Inside this version is the Swiss-made ETA 955.112 quartz movement, which the brands chose for its no-fuss operation and because it keeps the watch highly comfortable at just 8.2mm thick. A Hesalite box-shaped crystal, meanwhile, helps add some vintage inspiration, while turning the watch over reveals an exhibition caseback — a nifty touch, it celebrates the quartz movement’s construction in all its colorful glory.

But you don’t want to hear about a quartz movement. What’s important here is the brass “California” dial: offered in viridian green, dusty blue, radiant burgundy and white silver, each features an outer chapter ring with printed, box-shaped indices, a contrasting ring containing the Roman and Chinese numerals, and an inner section that matches the chapter ring’s color. Both Paulin’s playful, modernist typography, as well as The Armoury’s classic serif wordmark, are present above and below the handset, which is blocky with a skeletonized minute hand tip and a contrasting seconds hand. Pops of color in the dash and triangular indices help give each colorway a distinct sense of chromaticism and legibility.

Paired to a dark grey suede strap with tone-on-tone stitching, the 35mm Hong Kong Dial II is well sized, comfortable, colorful, playful and highly considered. The type of thing that’ll get you a knowing wink from fellow collectors, it’s subtle enough to read “formal” when dressed up but vibrant enough to attract the attention of curious passers-by. And for true watch nerds who love the idea of a “California” dial but don’t want to fork over big money for a tiny Bubbleback, it provides a welcome (and affordable) entry into that space. Take our word for it: when two companies this dedicated to making well-crafted, beautiful objects team up, you should pay attention!