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Gents: whither the perfect date spot?

A spot that impresses with food and ambience, but isn’t oppressively haute. Or hip. Or – quelle horreur! – overproduced. A spot that just gets out of your way.

That spot is Paper or Plastik. It’s in Pico Hauser. It’s one of LA’s lesser-known dining gems, and they’re now serving dinner.

By day, Paper or Plastik is a breezy sun-drenched room where writers pretend not to notice the long-fingered ladies conversing over farm-to-table fare.

By night, the exposed brick walls and junkyard chic furniture create a warm, almost-on-your-own-patio vibe.

The menu is by a former Campanile chef, and you’re going to want the burger — a grass-fed patty covered in melted Gruyère and a red onion marmalade so tasty you’ll forget to ask for ketchup.

The rest of the menu includes delicious market salads and a house-made pasta slathered in a cream and sage butter sauce.

The prix fixe menu ($29), offered Thursday-Saturday, changes weekly with items like beef carpaccio, lamb chops, steamed mussels in a green garlic broth and blood orange panna cotta.

And a succinct list of terroir-driven wines and craft beers will make you feel right cozy.

Which is how you want to be.

Nota bene: PoP’s owners also run the dance studio in the back, and they have events like comedy shows and classical concerts (check the schedule).

Main image from Kelly Hu