The Best Skeleton and Openworked Watches

Even for the horological novice, the idea of peering into a mechanical watch movement as it’s ticking away in all its miniature glory holds significant appeal. On the average wrist- or pocket watch, this can only be achieved by removing the timepiece’s caseback, which allows dust and other contaminants to enter and should only be done by a qualified professional during service. However, there exists a certain type of watch that’s designed to allow one to peek into the movement — and not just when it’s being serviced.

The “skeleton”/“skeletonized” watch (also referred to as “openworked”) is one in which much of the movement componentry — mostly the bridges that hold the smaller parts in place — have been reduced via sawing or electrical discharge machining to their bare minimum. When combined with a transparent dial (and perhaps a transparent caseback), this allows the viewer to look between and even through the movement — hence the “skeleton” moniker. While some movements are skeletonized after the fact and some are designed from the ground up to be used within a transparent-dial watch, the terminology is used more or less interchangeably. (There are also transparent-dial watches in which the movement is not skeletonized, but simply entirely visible. For better or worse, these are typically also lumped into the “skeletonized” or “openworked” camp.) 

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Surprisingly, such artistry has been practiced by watchmakers going back to the mid-18th century, when French watchmaker André Charles Caron developed what is widely agreed to be the first skeletonized pocket watch. It’s Abraham-Louis Breguet, however, whose commission No. 160 for Marie Antoinette — she never took delivery before her execution in 1793 — is considered the ne plus ultra of vintage skeletonized pieces. On display in Jerusalem’s Museum of Islamic Art, it features a rock crystal dial that gives a view into its wildly sophisticated, hand-made movement featuring 23 complications. Taking decades to complete, it paved the way for both modern grand complications as well as contemporary skeletonized watches. 

Because traditional skeletonized and openworked timepieces are completed painstakingly by hand, they are often eye-wateringly expensive even when their mechanisms offer few (or no) complications. That being said, low- to mid-tier brands have widened their offerings in recent years to include skeletonized watches whose movements are simply mass-produced versions of common third-party Swiss engines from companies such as ETA. While these pieces can be had for a few thousand dollars, a move slightly upmarket yields more interesting fare from brands that develop their own in-house movements. Venturing into five-figure territory, one encounters distinctive pieces with highly original designs, while a journey into six-figure territory reveals pieces from market leaders such as Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet that stun in their marriage of skeletonization with precious metals and gem-setting.

For some watch buyers, of course, the “skeletonized” look is simply one that holds little aesthetic appeal. No matter — one can still admire from afar the skill required to whittle away a movement until only the bare amount of material is visible. Withhold too much metal, and not enough change is apparent from a typical movement; remove too much, and its structural integrity is compromised, and accurate timekeeping goes out the window. The sweet spot is the province of the master watchmaker, and the result is one that mesmerizes even the most experienced collector. 

12 Excellent Skeletonized Watches

For a fun and affordable entry into the skeletonized market, try the Mido Multifort Skeleton Vertigo. Available in several different colors and configurations, we particularly like the version that combines a 42mm stainless steel case and matching bracelet with a cobalt blue dial featuring vertical striations and applied indices. The central part of said dial is transparent — through this, one can view the Mido cal. 80 automatic movement doing its thing, its Nivachron balance spring providing up to 80 hours of power reserve and its bridges darkened to the color of the surrounding minute track, creating a cool, uniform look. At $1,330, it’s tough to argue with the value proposition presented by this affordable Swatch Group-brand timepiece. 

Whether you’re in search of a midcentury design, an oversized watch or a more affordable skeletonized piece, the Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton Auto should be on your radar. Based upon a design from Richard Arbib, it boasts a 46mm stainless steel case that seems like it wants to take off from the wrist like a swept-wing fighter jet. The black dial, meanwhile, isn’t completely open: Rather, it features a series of cutaways that reveal the Hamilton cal. H-10-S automatic, an openworked version of the ETA cal. C07.611 with 80 hours of power reserve and a Nivachron balance spring. 

Housed in a well sized 38mm stainless steel case, paired to a matching steel multi-link bracelet, and boasting 100m of water resistance, the Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 is among the more utilitarian, everyday-wear-appropriate pieces on this list. With its blue outer minute track and Super-LumiNova-coated sword hands, it’s relatively legible despite the skeletonized cal. RW1212 automatic movement with its brushed finish and black ruthenium coating. (Gold-toned wheels in the gear train pop against the more subdued bridges, adding welcome contrast.) Measuring less than 11mm thick and undeniably handsome, the Freelancer is a compelling entry point into the world of skeletonized watches.

Norqain specializes in incredibly capable tool watches, and its Wild One Skeleton is no exception. Available in different colors, materials and sizes, the 42mm version features a lightweight Norteq carbon fiber case with brightly colored accents within the dial, rubber shock absorber and within the rubber strap. The open dial and skeletonized Norqain cal. N08S automatic movement are complemented by a set of large, applied rectangular indices that emerge from the outer minute track, making for one of the most legible designs on this list. Weighing in at just 78 grams and boasting 200m of water resistance, it’s perhaps the most adventure-ready skeleton watch on the market.

While its crown design, handset and silhouette might be vintage-inspired, Maurice Lacroix’s 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde lives much more in the future than in the past: Within the confines of its 42mm stainless steel case is a sapphire crystal dial beneath which sits the skeletonized Maurice Lacroix cal. ML302 automatic movement. Equipped with a grand date display as well as a retrograde day-of-the-week indicator, it comes to life on the crystal dial via subtle indications in white printing and a luminous alpha handset. For someone who desires modern performance, specs and dimensions without a five-figure price tag, the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde is certainly an attractive option.

This larger 44mm version of TAG Heuer’s flagship Carrera Chronograph platform provides a forward-looking take on one of the world’s most beloved racing watches: Housed in a titanium case with brushed and sandblasted surfaces, it features an outer tachymeter scale engraved upon a fixed ceramic bezel, dual pump pushers and a Grade 5 titanium crown. The automatic TAG Heuer cal. TH20-00 movement — visible via an open dial — features a handsome design with symmetrical bridge architecture, a triple-register chronograph display and a date window above 6 o’clock. Blue, silver and black accents all complement one another to excellent effect, making this one of the best-looking skeleton models in the sports watch arena.

Since its debut in 2019, the Bell & Ross BR-05 has offered a Genta-esque luxury sports watch option to those who prefer not to spend the equivalent of a midsize sedan on a wristwatch. Beyond a screw-down bezel and integrated bracelet, however, the BR-05 Skeleton Black Ceramic adds other features that will no doubt appeal to the city slicker: There’s black ceramic construction, of course, which lends the watch a cool tactical feel — but then there’s the skeletonized cal. BR-CAL.322-1 automatic movement with rhodium-plated componentry. When combined with luminous indices and a transparent dial, the result is a distinctive, contemporary aesthetic that makes for excellent everyday wear.

A fresh expression of Zenith’s Defy Skyline sports watch, the stealthy new Skeleton version combines a black ceramic case with the collection’s signature 12-sided bezel and matching multi-link bracelet with quick-change end links (and additional black patterned rubber strap). Powering the watch is the skeletonized El Primero cal. 3620SK automatic movement, a high-beat engine that ticks at 5 Hz and boasts a 1/10th-seconds indicator above 6 o’clock. The gold-tone open dial and star-shaped bridges provide the wearer with a visual feast, while Super-LumiNova ensures a legible wearing experience. 

Measuring less than 6mm thick, the titanium-cased Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days dismisses classic tropes for a futuristic aesthetic based upon octagonal architecture, sandblasted finishing and a movement that almost looks like a computer chip. Measuring 40mm in diameter, it features a relatively large dial opening that shows off the hand-wound BVL 199 SK movement, a wafer-thin, 2.5mm-thick assortment of components with a seriously impressive 8-day power reserve. Largely monochromatic, its sleek design is perfect for someone who desires a skeletonized watch that looks to the future — rather than to vintage designs — for inspiration.

Easily one of the most delightful skeletonized watches on the market, the Cartier Santos-Dumont Skeleton with Micro-Rotor celebrates Brazilian aviator-inventor Alberto Santos-Dumont’s relationship with Louis Cartier and the beloved watch model that resulted from their friendship: Based upon a 31.4mm “Large”-size case in rose gold, this version is powered by the Cartier cal. 9629 MC automatic movement, whose bridges and componentry is visible via an open dial. It’s the movement’s precious metal micro-rotor, however, that constitutes the timepiece’s most delightful feature: Whirring away in the bottom lefthand corner of the dial, it takes the shape of La Demoiselle, one of Santos-Dumont’s aircraft.

Beloved by celebs such as Venus Williams, Chris Hemsworth and DJ Khaled, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked has become somewhat of a cult favorite — and for good reason. Available in numerous executions, it’s not only an openworked version of one of the world’s most famous sportswatches — it’s also equipped with a second balance wheel and balance spring assembly, significantly increasing chronometric precision in the movement. Many of the Audemars Piguet cal. 3132’s 245 components are visible via the slate grey dial, while pink gold applied indices and hands play off the muted gunmetal tone of the skeletonized bridges for a captivating look.

This version of H. Moser & Cie’s elegant Streamliner luxury sports watch is dressed to the nines: Constructed of sumptuous brushed and polished 5N red gold, it features a gem-set bezel in a rainbow array of colored sapphires cut in different lengths. The dial, meanwhile, gives a view to the H. Moser & Cie HMC 814 automatic movement, whose bridges are designed to allow ample light to flow through the watch and reveal its double-hairspring and one-minute flying tourbillon. Paired to an integrated 5N gold bracelet, it boasts 120m of water resistance — meaning you don’t have to be too precious with it despite its very precious construction. 

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