October: Delicious tacos and one weird burger
To keep tabs on every New York restaurant and bar opening is folly. But to keep tabs on the most worthy? Yeoman’s work, and we’re proud to do it. Thus we present Table Stakes, a monthly rundown of the five (or so) must-know spots that have swung wide their doors in the past thirty (or so). Bon appétit.
October was like restaurant Christmas.
For the mighty taco — Lord of All Foods Now and Forever, in this correspondent’s humble and hungry opinion — got some serious shine in NYC.
Empellón’s Alex Stupak opened up a buzzing hub of low-cost and quite delicious meaty bites served on paper plates down on St. Mark’s.
The Tacombi crew brought their VW bus taco show to the sprawling new Gansevoort market (which also features lobster rolls, tapas and at least one interesting pastry hybrid).
And world famous chef Enrique Olvera’s Cosme began churning out mouthwatering circlets from a hulking Celorio — aka “the Lamborghini of tortilla machines.”
Unrelated: a basement speakeasy is now serving the weirdest hamburger you’ve seen all year.
So yes, this Table Stakes isn’t for fine dining. It’s for grubbing down.
Now get to dialing — these reservations ain’t gonna make themselves.