Cycling the Old Ghost Road, New Zealand’s Best-Kept Secret

After a grueling 4,000-foot climb, we finally broke into the alpine. Covered in sweat, Jenny and I stopped to catch our breath and take in the mountains around us. Despite temps in the mid-60s, the humidity was nearly 100%, which made the first nine miles of the Old Ghost Road an uphill slog. That’s the price you have to pay for the gold mine ahead.

But first, let’s rewind. If you’ve never heard of the Old Ghost Road, you’re not alone. Completed in 2015, the OGR is a 53-mile singletrack ride on the West Coast of the South Island. Located in the most rugged and remote part of New Zealand, it’s far off the beaten path and one of the best-kept adventure secrets in the country, if not the entire world. After learning about OGR from a Kiwi friend, we immediately started planning a trip.

Old Ghost is an intermediate-to-advanced route that crosses the Lyell and Glasgow Mountains, connecting two old mining towns, Lyell and Seddonville. It’s a remarkably diverse trail, winding through mossy forests, turquoise rivers, swinging bridges and alpine ridge lines. While it’s possible to ride the entire length in a single day, we broke it up into two to really take it all in.

The trail is well made, with machine-built tread, gradual grades and switchbacks better than most bike parks. It has a few technical sections, riddled with loose rocks and sheer drop-offs. For new riders, these are probably safer to walk. Despite receiving a small fraction of fanfare of New Zealand’s Great Walks, the Old Ghost Road is perhaps the best singletrack in the country. A true hidden gem.

The route is inspired by a mining road that was surveyed in the late 1800s and later lost to history. It took eight years, $6.5 million and 26,500 man hours to build, using a mix of dynamite, helicopters, small machines and hand tools. The incredible amount of dedication is evident throughout the trail, in ways big and small. With nearby bike rentals in Westport and six huts along the way, OGR is suited for a wide range of skills and fitness levels — we even met some retirees on e-bikes, who were riding it over four days.

Back to our trip. After slamming a half bag of Haribo gummies, we got back on the bikes and pedaled to Rocky Tor, the high point of the trail. This is the beginning of the technical, class 5 section, with baby head rocks and stretches little more than a foot wide. We were able to ride most of it, steadily picking our way through the spicy sections and eventually arriving at Ghost Lake Hut, our accommodation for the night.

Ghost Lake Hut is the crown jewel of the route, with 18 bunks, a fully stocked kitchen and views out the dining room window that one would kill for. Nearby, there’s an outhouse, campsites and a helipad for rescues and resupplies. The hut also has running water, although we used a small filter to make sure it was safe to drink. Inside we met more than a dozen other riders, despite seeing just two the entire day. 

Waking up at sunrise, we made oatmeal and coffee, packed our bags and dropped into the eight-mile descent to Stern Valley. This is the most challenging riding of the route and simultaneously the most beautiful, which forced us to stop and enjoy the views more than once. For those not comfortable with tight switchbacks and steep descents, be prepared to get on and off your bike a lot.

After a snack break inside the Stern Hut to avoid the sandflies, we climbed past the Boneyard to Solemn Saddle, and cruised past the Hanging Judge to Goat Creek Hut, which sits on the Mokihinui River. This section offered a wide mix of riding and ecology, with plenty of flow and a ripping fast descent at the end, which was fun until I nearly blew my brake pads and had to play it safe the rest of the way.

Unlike most trails that are this remote, the Old Ghost is well-marked and easy to follow. The trail builders also took the liberty to add silly signs along the way, naming a dozen or so unique spots. Two of our favorites, Heaven’s Door and the Boneyard, give a sense of the people behind the trail: hard workers who didn’t take themselves too seriously. My only regret is not getting photos of every one of these signs.

The final stretch of the Old Ghost Road, past the Forks and Specimen Point, follows the Mokihinui River into a deep canyon as it descends towards the coast. Filled with bridges, creek crossings and short and steep climbs, this section was harder than we had predicted. But by early afternoon we’d made it to the end, hopping in the river to cool off. For those who plan far enough ahead, the Rough and Tumble Bush Lodge at the end of the trail is a great place to cap off your adventure.

Gear for the Old Ghost Road

• Mons Royale Tarn Bike Jersey: Riding all day in a variety of ecosystems, weather and temperatures is a sweaty, dirty, gritty affair. Despite all that, my merino wool jersey didn’t smell at all — a gift to both me and Jenny. As a New Zealand brand, Mons works with local suppliers to source the best wool, which shows.

• Patagonia Dirt Roamer 20L Pack: With huts stocked with bunks, sleeping pads, stoves, gas, pots and pans, we were able to pack lighter than most bikepacking trips, only carrying sleeping bags, clothes and meals. I fit all of it into a Dirt Roamer pack, leaving just snacks and a few small items for my top tube bag.

• Fox Union BOA Bike Shoes: For all-day comfort and a flat, grippy bottom that makes it easy to walk off the bike, I use Fox Union shoes for all bikepacking trips. They are quick to adjust on the fly thanks to a dual BOA system, and water-resistant in light rain, mist and sleet.
• Momentous Whey Protein Travel Packs: Last but not least, these small packets are invaluable on backcountry adventures, helping me get the protein needed to recover for big days ahead. I now bring them on all my adventures, which has been a real game-changer, especially when the going gets tough.

All photos by Andy Cochrane