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As a child, the first time I remember being aware of the power of menswear was seeing Dylan McDermott in his prime. No, I’m not talking about The Practice and certainly not American Horror Story, rather the unfairly maligned 1994 remake of Miracle on 34th Street (the one written and produced by John Hughes).
Through the trials and tribulations of Richard Attenborough’s Kris Kringle, the single constant is McDermott’s unwavering commitment to the highest echelon of men’s style, like a bizarro version of Patrick Bateman (keeping the unimpeachable wardrobe and not-a-hair-out-of-place coif, minus the killing). There he is in a power suit in the courtroom, in a camel overcoat in the department story, on the snowflake-dappled streets of New York in black leather gloves and a cashmere scarf because accessories are not optional, people.
The most memorable menswear moment for me, though, comes at the beginning as he sits in the window of an apartment on Central Park West watching the “Cole’s” Thanksgiving Day Parade in the perfect example of a carving sweater, the unsung hero of seasonal knitwear. At the head of the dinner table, presiding over the turkey, he overdoes it a bit by adding a double-wide-lapel jacket, but hey, it was the ‘90s.
The first name in seasonal knitwear is, at least in recent years, the ugly Christmas sweater. Personally, I’ve got nothing against this holiday tradition — most people need an excuse to lighten up, and I’m not talking about the pullovers that are inlaid with red and green bulbs — but since its inception it has gone from a celebration of the ironic and garish to a mass-produced, dumpster-bound polyester nightmare. When we’re at a place where people are wearing the Xmas version of the Calvin peeing decal, it’s past time to pump the brakes.
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Men are notoriously difficult to shop for…but nothing is impossibleBut what makes a good carving sweater? And more to the point: what is it, exactly? As the name suggests, it’s a warm, festive layer that’s bold enough to helm Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner, one that will put friends and family at ease when you slice into the turkey or goose, or recommend the perfect wine or bourbon to pair. But the boldness scale here is notably different than that for the ugly Christmas sweater, and you don’t actually need to be in charge of slicing through a crispy bird to don one.
In the tasteless holiday sweater department, the more ornamentation, the better, and any thrift store find will do. With a carving sweater, the classic outfitters are your friend, as we’re talking about serious knitwear now. But there’s no need to stick to understated styles — pair a cable-knit with a turtleneck like McDermott, or a rollneck with a bright stripe that can light up the 5 p.m. darkness. In short, make daring choices with your sartorial wits about you.
If you want to match McDermott stitch for stitch, you should consider the Polo Ralph Lauren Cable-Knit Wool-Cashmere Sweater ($348) in Andover Cream. (Other brands will use “natural” or “oatmeal” to describe a beige sweater and call it a day. Not Ralph!) Yes, the turtleneck collar here is more substantial than Dylan’s, but the color as well as the alternating cable knit and stripe motif are spot on — and anyway, a reliable source told me that turtlenecks are a turn-on again. Might as well go big.
If you want to match the vibe of the lawyer who saved Santa without your relatives doing double takes when you watch Miracle on 34th Street this season, then pick up the Marled Rollneck Sweater from Alex Mill ($198). The pullover has the same loose stitching as McDermott’s layer, and also opts for a chunkier knit, which will please anyone who’s been wondering why sweaters have gotten so thin since the heyday of When Harry Met Sally, but the 100% merino wool composition is a bit more forgiving. Plus, the brand notes that the design here is “inspired by early ‘90s menswear” — which I think is code for “inspired by Dylan McDermott’s unimpeachable early ‘90s Christmas movie wardrobe.”
Speaking of ’90s inspired menswear, the timeless Todd Snyder Donegal Cable Knit Sweater ($228 $160), which is particularly charming in the Cigar color and currently on sale, uses a fabric style that is ideal for the carving sweater criteria. Donegal refers to fabrics (usually tweed, but not always) that are flecked with color from a random assortment of additional yarn, which means you can bedeck yourself in a sprinkling of festive charm without going full Tim Allen in The Santa Clause. I also like the Pescatore Cable-Knit Wool Sweater from Ghiaia Cashmere ($895) which, despite the brand’s name, utilizes a ultra-soft, army-green mélange wool and generally looks like something you might see your Italian nonno wearing circa 1992.
Another excellent fabric presents itself in Buck Mason’s Seastack Wool Tweed Cable Crew ($248); while the 100% Italian-spun merino wool isn’t itchy in the slightest, it’s managed to produce the same sort of texture as vintage Apres ski sweaters.
We’ve chatted about one rollneck sweater already, but I think that’s going to be the option most people should spring for this year — enough of a turtleneck to keep you warm when you head out into the blustery weather, not too thick that you’ll start tugging at your collar after your third Boulevardier. J.Crew has one anyone can pull off: the 1988 Rollneck Sweater ($118), a direct copy of their original rollneck that was released in some neat cotton rugby stripes this year.
Speaking of seafaring, nautical brand Quaker Marine has my favorite version of this style: the Fisherman’s Sweater ($178), which comes in 11 colors, but for our purposes today you’ll want the North Seas version; McDermott’s Bryan Bedford wouldn’t be caught dead in an on-the-nose red and green stripe (what is he, an elf?), but the classic Norwegian birdseye fleck is holiday-agnostic wintertide perfection. (Also, I own one of these in red and wear it constantly.)
If you want the trifecta of rollneck silhouette, Donegal-style coloring and a premium wool-cashmere fabric, then Ireland’s Inis Meáin is the label for you with their unimpeachable Boatbuilder Rollneck Sweater ($775), reissued in a handsome burgundy-eggplant fleck. The contrast stitching on the raglan shoulders says, “I’ve wielded carving knives many holidays before and will continue to wield them for many holidays to come.” And, naturally, there’s always the novelty route – L.L.Bean’s Signature Organic Cotton Fair Isle Rollneck Sweater ($130) has you covered there. (There’s also an excellent olive dog version, if that’s your thing.)
In the end, while we can recommend you a sweater for the season, we can’t pull it off for you. These are the power suits of knitwear, and as the former won’t work without the proper wristwatch and impeccably steamed shirt, neither will these work thrown on haphazardly over a pair of beat-up blue jeans. Take a cue from McDermott and think about the full picture — freshly trimmed coif included.
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