Another Men’s Fashion Week has come to a close, and while all eyes are focused on the scorching hot slate (and scorching hot temps) at Paris Fashion Week, it’s worth taking a moment to look back at everything Milan had to offer. The season’s stalwart line-up of designers — buoyed by Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Giorgio Armani, or, more recently, Ralph Lauren and Thom Browne — had much to offer; there was sexed-up Sicilian holidaywear, beekeeper-inspired tailoring, collegiate prep turned up to ten. That’s just scratching the surface.
With so much to sort through, I’ve consolidated my favorite collections and moments for you below.
Ralph Lauren Offers a Redefined Vision of Prep
Building on the success of last season, Ralph Lauren doubled down on a younger, more vibrant expression of its iconic prep for it’s Spring 2027 collection, which kicked off Milan Men’s Fashion Week on Friday. Offering a mass of eclectic and highly commercial styles across Purple Label and Polo, the capsules leaned into Ralph’s seminal design codes — and 50-odd years’ worth of references — for one of the best displays of the season. (You can read my full review here.)
Brunello Cucinelli Curates Summerweight Luxury
Brunello Cucinelli is synonymous with luxury, and what’s more luxurious than considered craft? Alongside the standard (if not immaculate) lineup of easy linen and silk tailoring, the brand’s new innovation for the season — a variety of bleached, washed and otherwise intentionally treated cotton apparel, including cable knit sweaters, cargo pants and oxford shirting in beautifully faded pastels — offers a unique time-worn look with none of the typically prerequisite tear.
Dolce & Gabbana Envisions a Capri-Coded Holiday
Even if you were unaware that Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection was titled “Vacanze Siciliana,” you’d likely be able to tell that the designer duo was inspired by the sun, sand and sex of a classic Euro holiday on account of, you know, the clothing. The brand truly captured a high-summer mood with a coalition of low-slung linen trousers, mesh tank tops, and adorned summer suiting, shredded denim and ecclesiastical graphics; it’s one of their strongest collections in years.
Prada Slims Down
The reactions to Prada’s perversely slim Spring/Summer 2027 collections have been mixed, but one thing is abundantly clear — Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons continue to push the boundaries of what consumer-facing menswear can and should look like. Despite an explicit focus on the a “simple” garment in the jean (and jean jacket), Prada found many ways to offer complex, fabricated versions, ranging from latex-sheen leather to belt buckle bags.
Thom Browne Combines Critters and Character
Any expectations for Thom Browne’s Milan debut were blown out of the water by the American designer’s full-scale, critter-curious Spring/Summer 2027 collection — set amongst 400 seersucker roses in the courtyard of Palazzo Serbelloni, the show paired Browne’s signature striping and tailoring codes with floral embroidery, beekeeper hats and a soundtrack ripped directly from “A Bug’s Life.” It was whimsical, theatrical and quintessentially Thom Browne: in other words, the perfect presentation.
Giorgio Armani Returns to It’s Roots
If you needed an indication that Giorgio Armani was all in on heritage this season, you need only look at the location of the brand’s Spring/Summer 2027 show — the Palazzo Orsini, Armani’s abode and the brand’s historic headquarters. Of course, you could just look at the clothes, too, which, for the most part, looked like something straight out of a ’90s-era collection, with an obvious leaning into relaxed fits, rustic tailoring, safari designs, unstructured staples and a dusty color palette highly reminiscent of the brand’s long-established visual identity.
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