Worth the Wait, Vol. III: Behind the Scenes at Austin’s Salt Lick BBQ

hances are your backyard-BBQ-smoking expertise falls short of that of the Family Roberts. Patriarch Scott has spent the last half-century manning the famous pits at Salt Lick — first under the watchful eye of his father (who founded the joint back in ‘67), and now with his own watchful eye on the daughter who will eventually take it over. Call them the Corleones of Texas barbecue, if you will.

But fear not, meat-loving chums, with just a little know-how and a dab of elbow grease (and, er, regular grease), you can still knock out some Texas-style brisket goodness that’ll have your guests fighting over the last juicy bits — no fancy smoker required.

STEP TWO: PREP IT RIGHT

The night before, pre-salt the meat to help it retain moisture and bring out the flavor. About a third of a teaspoon per pound should do it.

Morning of, it’s time for the dry rub. Recipes abound, but we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the fact that you can get both the rub and the sauce you’re gonna need later direct from Salt Lick, and again, they’ve been at this a helluva lot longer than anyone we know.

A dry-rubbed brisket ready for the smoker.

Pro tip: spray your brisket with a bit of water to adhere the rub better, then coat all sides liberally.

STEP THREE: GET YOUR GRILL READY

Any charcoal grill will do. Just get a small pile of briquettes going on one side and a tin roasting pan with about a quart of water on the other. Pro tip: heat the water first so your charcoal doesn’t waste its energy warming it up.

You’re looking for a grill temp of about 225 degrees — screw with the vents until you get there. Pro-er tip: a wireless thermometer with probes for both the meat and grill temps will make this whole process much easier.

Roberts’ fellow pitmaster Carmen Gonzalez with Salt Lick’s portable smoker rig.

Now it’s time for your wood chips. Hickory is easiest to find and 6-8 chips in the briquette mix oughta do it — you’ll want to soak them in water (or even better, apple juice) for at least four hours prior to smoking to keep them from burning up entirely.

Pro-est tip: do like Roberts and add a few (soaked) pecan hulls as well to mix up the smoky flavor.

STEP FOUR: START SMOKIN’

Throw your brisket on the side of the grill above the water, fat cap side down. Insert your thermometer into the thickest part. Close ‘er up with the top vent on the opposite side of the fire so the smoke has to pass over the brisket on its way out.

Final step: sauce caramelizing on the meat over a high flame.

And now, you wait — much like the process of making quality tequila, making quality barbecue requires time, patience and a willingness not to cut corners.

“In order to get that smoke penetration into the meat, it just takes time.” says Roberts. “It takes time for the heat to get into the meat and soften it up. It takes time for the smoke to get into the meat and give it that wonderful flavor. You can’t rush it. You have to be patient.”

In this case, that wait should be in the vicinity of five hours. Lucky for you …

STEP FIVE: SIP PATIENTLY

… this is the perfect opportunity to enjoy a libation, and master mixologist Justin Lavenue has been kind enough to drop not one but two delicious Tequila Avión cocktail recipes on us inspired by (and perfect to pair with) Texas-style barbecue.

THE SLOW BURN (EPICUREAN VERSION)

THE SLOW BURN (EXPRESS VERSION)

Please drink responsibly.

STEP SIX: FINISH STRONG

When the internal temp of the meat hits about 180°, take it off and wrap it in foil — this’ll hold in juices as the meat starts to “sweat” toward the end of the cook. Throw it back on, stick the thermometer back in, and monitor until it hits 200°.

Now comes the hardest part: not eating the damn thing yet. Yes, it’s going to smell so good that it gives you low-grade primal caveman meat mania. But you must resist: letting the brisket rest for a couple hours allows the juices to settle and results in a much tastier final product. So be patient. Have another drink. Be glad you’re not Roberts himself, who refrigerates his brisket for 10 more hours before reheating it on his pits.

Scott Robinson’s ideal Salt Lick’s “Thurman’s Choice” plate.

Once it’s rested, slather that baby in your sauce and throw it back on the grill directly over the heat for just a minute or two to caramelize it.

Take it off, slice it against the grain, and serve accompanied by a cold cocktail.

Pro tip: tell your guests to bring the sides.