By The Editors / November 13, 2013 9:00 am

With apologies to the Marina’s vigorous fist-pumpers and yoga-panted gazelles, there’s something of a renaissance afoot in the Dub Steppes of SF’s northern flank.

Something … tasty.

To wit: Sabrosa, a kitchen-driven cocktail bar with crisp looks and the substance to back them up, opening tonight in the husk of the shuttered City Tavern.

From the gents behind the TL’s Redford and The Brixton in Cow Hollow, Sabrosa is their first attempt at a food and drink duumvirate, eschewing standard pub fare for destination eats.

Helming the bites: Nopalito’s founding chef José Ramos and his folio of recipes and techniques inspired by the Mexican kitchens of his youth.

We’re talking seared ribeye — spiced Mayan style — chayote mingling with dungeness crab, pomegranate-laced ceviche and a beet and kale salad that’s reason enough to claim a booth.

Behind the bar: San Diego’s Matt Stanton, a veteran bar owner in his own right looking to sharpen his teeth in SF’s craft cocktail scene.

Out the gate we suggest his Pepino Diablo, an eye-opening silver tequila gimlet spiced with serrano pepper.

Mostly, we recommend getting in before word gets out.