New York City is often described as the city that never sleeps, but after a visit to Southeast Asia in January, I’m convinced that the title belongs to another late-night city: Taipei.
No pun intended, but the capital of Taiwan is a sleeper hit. Like many other overlooked Asian cities, Taipei charms unexpectedly, striking a rare balance between offbeat character and cosmopolitan polish. Verdant mountains frame its famed skyscrapers, while streets buzz with food markets and crowds well into the night. Bubble tea in hand, I found myself walking around brightly lit districts, shopping for pineapple cake souvenirs and skincare til midnight each evening. What more could I ask for?
Up All Night
The city’s late-night culture means things operate a little differently here. Most coffee shops don’t open until 11 a.m., while shopping hours often stretch to 11 p.m. The Datong District, particularly Chifeng Street, lives up to the hype, but the Da’an District won me over. Yongkang Street and the surrounding lanes felt like the side streets of Harajuku in Tokyo, where independent boutiques thrive and stylish young people gather around bubble tea shops and stationery stores.
There’s no better way to experience Taipei after dark than by exploring its famed night markets, the go-to destination to find affordable, iconic street food. While my adventurous dad sampled stinky tofu, my aunt and I gravitated towards less pungent delicacies like beef noodle soup, oyster omelet, intestine skewers, popcorn chicken and roast duck. Ximen Night Market was our favorite thanks to its convenient location and wide selection.
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Taipei boasts some of Asia’s most inventive cocktail bars. I loved Lab, a laboratory-themed bar that emphasizes clinical precision and food-science expertise. The intimate space created a sociable atmosphere, making it easy to strike up a conversation with the team — most of whom were fluent in English and all of whom were dressed in lab coats. I ordered from the custom drink section, where guests can pair two flavors of their choice; options included shiso, starfruit, coriander and papaya.
I also visited To Infinity & Beyond, a bar plucked straight out of an ’80s sci-fi film, complete with a spaceship entrance. The drinks are technical yet fun, incorporating techniques like centrifugation and an array of unexpected ingredients. Think cocktails made with Worcestershire sauce, mascarpone cheese, freshly shaved Parmesan and wasabi.
Cultural Landmarks
History buffs will find that Taipei is a landmine for learning about a complex and fraught postcolonial history. Catch the changing of the guards at the impressive Chiang Kai Shek Memorial before scouring its massive expanse of museums and gardens. There’s also the Chiang Kai Shek Shilin Residence, the former residence of the late Republic of China president.
If you watched Netflix’s Free Solo or the subsequent chilling livestream of Alex Honnold last month, you’ll already know about the Taipei 101 skyscraper. The building is worth seeing and having a quick peruse around the mall. If an out-of-town trip is possible, the photogenic town of Jiufen is only an hour drive away and looks straight out of a Studio Ghibli film.
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Admittedly, I was overwhelmed by how much of exploring Taipei revolved around eating, at a night market or otherwise. But there’s a reason for it: The food scene here is exceptional. To celebrate my grandmother’s birthday, we had the best hotpot at Wulao Hotpot Zhongshan, where tender cuts of meat are steeped in duck broth and fragrant peppercorns. There’s the Addiction Aquatic, a gourmet marketplace where the massive king snow crabs are sweet and freshly prepared. As for dessert, you can’t go to Taipei without having bubble tea, and I liked Xing Fu Tang best for their homemade boba pearls. Bow Bow Canelé & Scone is a tiny shop specializing in indulgent caneles I couldn’t get enough of.
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