First-time visitors to Greece tend to have two end-all, be-all destinations in mind: Athens and the islands. The capital is essential, and the idyllic islands are unimpeachable — in theory.
Incredible as the Greek isles are, many are bogged down by throngs of tourists wielding selfie sticks as far as the eye can see. That’s especially true of the locales most likely on your list: Santorini and Mykonos. Expect a healthy dose of Instagram versus reality as you squeeze through narrow alleys for the same whitewashed-building, crystalline-water views as everyone else. But the Peloponnese, a lesser-explored coastal region, delivers everything you’re craving in a Greek getaway with a fraction of the frenzy. Enter Costa Navarino, located in Greece’s Messenia region, where the secret weapon may be the food.
Yes, the local eats here are spectacular, but Costa Navarino is also where Greece’s cool crowd vacations. And that’s not just hyperbole: None other than Giannis Antetokounmpo owns vacation homes in the destination and even hosted his wedding there in 2024. If it’s good enough for Giannis, as they say.
Getting to Costa Navarino and Where to Stay
Costa Navarino is about a three-hour drive southwest of Athens, where you’ll cross the Isthmus of Corinth before continuing along the coast of the Peloponnese. Once there, you’ll find endless olive groves, serene seaside settings and charming small villages. You’ll also find a couple things the islands lack: room to breathe and locals who welcome an influx of tourism rather than trying to shoo the hordes away.
The closest airport is Kalamata (yes, like the olive). Though if you can snag a direct flight from the United States to Athens, it may be tempting to do that instead, and then you can rent a car or arrange a transfer to Costa Navarino. If you do stay in Athens for a couple days, book a room at Hotel Grande Bretagne. The property sits caddy-corner from the Hellenic Parliament and offers easy walking access to the Plaka district and ancient sites beyond. Chief among them, of course, is the Acropolis of Athens, and beyond its old-school opulence and elegance, the hotel’s best selling point may be its postcard-perfect view of the Parthenon.
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The GB Roof Garden Restaurant sports one of the world’s best dining views, but the iconic Athens hotel has you covered when it comes to the eats, too. Try something like the grilled turbot with stuffed zucchini blossoms or a risotto paired with grilled asparagus. Either way, a glass or two of Assyrtiko alongside should do the trick. Come back for breakfast — the Acropolis sparkles in the morning sun — and fill up on Greek cheeses, salads galore and fresh koulouri, the sesame-studded, bagel-like pastry, before a day of touring.
Once in Costa Navarino, you’ll have your pick of hotels, including The Westin Resort, Costa Navarino and The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort, along with Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino and W Costa Navarino. The latter makes a surprisingly luxe impression, a strong example of the brand’s fresher face. The beachfront property stretches along a wide, sandy shoreline and centers around a showy resort pool that serves as its social hub. Accommodations range from suites to villas, many with perks like plunge pools and direct beach access. Whether you’re drawn to the spa, something more active like water sports or golf, or simply a steady diet of daytime lounging followed by DJ-fueled sunset drinks, the Greek vacation vibes will be in full swing.
Become Acquainted with Messinian Cuisine
You’re here to eat, yes? Good. Messenia offers its own distinct and wonderful take on Greek cuisine. Think grilled fish that was caught just a few hours prior, ingredients like carob, figs and honey, and local farm cheeses and feta, all served in wonderful neighborhood tavernas.
“Messinian cuisine is inseparably bound to its land, its sea and the history of its people,” says Nikos Billis, executive chef of W Costa Navarino. “It’s a cuisine of humble wisdom and care.”
Consider a dish such as kokoras bardouniotikos, or stewed rooster. “It’s not just a dish, it’s a ceremony!” Billis says. “It’s simmered with the patience and wisdom of the old generations. Always a little richer than it needs to be, as if prepared to honor a guest or to seal a life decision. It’s the dish that unites generations.”
But first things first: A Messinian breakfast is not to be missed. Platia, the W’s all-day restaurant — its name translates to “town square” — brings four distinct spaces together into one sprawling morning spread, with a tantalizing collection of cheeses and olives, spreads and dips, local fruit, yogurt and charcuterie. Billis recommends sampling Greek pastries like lalagia and tiganopsomo, topped with rare honey from Elati. Local cheeses worth trying include sfela, talagani, kefalograviera and kefalotyri.
Continue getting your essential food groups (bread and cheese, duh) at lunch with a Messinian flatbread, topped with feta, eggplant and olive oil. Go lighter with a Greek-style poke bowl or horiatiki salad, but be sure to pair it with the super-thin and crunchy house-made pita.
More Messinian produce shines in the signature heirloom tomato salad at Parelia, the hotel’s beachfront restaurant that specializes in locally-caught seafood. Whole fish, priced by the kilogram, is the star of the show, and watching the culinary team fillet and prepare an oversized catch for a large group amounts to performance theater. Or try the Mikromani artichokes at Piqantro, a hilltop restaurant fusing Spanish and Greek cuisine. Piqantro also spotlights local producer Kermes, whose Spanish-style cured ham channels Jamón ibérico. Pair it with a cocktail list developed by the team behind The Bar In Front Of The Bar in Athens.
But we’ve buried the lede long enough. You flew in or drove past the city of Kalamata, whose enchanting groves produce some of the best olives and olive oil in the world. Eggplant-colored, almond-shaped and meaty, Kalamatas are prized across the globe. They’re ideal for snacking or adding into any number of dishes, whereas it’s the Koroneiki olive that’s more commonly transformed into the golden-green goodness of extra virgin olive oil, offering a complex, fruity, earthy, peppery and herbaceous profile.
All told, there are about 250 olive oil presses in Messinia, accounting for 20% of Greece’s production. Sample it right from the source by visiting producers like Ben Olive Mill and Markellos Olive. You can also sign-up for a private olive oil tasting right at W Costa Navarino. “It’s led by Christina, a passionate olive oil connoisseur whose expertise and storytelling make it one of the most engaging and authentic tasting experiences in the Mediterranean,” Billis says.
Visiting local producers and purveyors is always a smart idea. Check out Izampo Farm for heirloom vegetables and Memmos Dairy in the village of Kopanaki for sensational local cheese. “It’s one of the best feta cheeses in all of Greece,” Billis says. He also suggests visiting the Kalamata farmers’ market on Wednesdays and Saturdays. “For me, it’s both a source of inspiration and the place where I meet my favorite suppliers,” he adds.
You’re still hungry, I hope. Billis shared with me his top three picks for a meal in the area:
- To Patriko: “A traditional cafe in the village of Tragána with a breathtaking view over Navarino and truly delicious food.”
- Bakaleco: “Also in Tragána, set in an olive grove with a wood-fired oven serving traditional dishes and outstanding tiganopsoma with honey from orange blossoms.”
- To Exohikon: “A taverna dating back to 1932 in the village of Mouzaki where you can try stuffed zucchini blossoms, little eggplants and the famous Bardouniotikos rooster. And something worth noting: In all three of these places, the kitchens are led by women.”
Back at your comfy confines of Costa Navarino, be sure to visit its Agora. It’s a destination in its own right with about two dozen shops and restaurants that’s adjacent to the W, accessible via a short walking bridge. Expect events such as evening wine tastings showcasing local Messinian producers, art showings and an open-air cinema, along with winding waterfront pathways to stroll after yet another memorable meal. Everything within was designed to showcase Messinian culture, making the whole of the resort feel like its very own village. Go ahead and dig in.
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