To keep tabs on every S.F. restaurant and bar opening is folly. But to keep tabs on the most worthy? Yeoman’s work, and we’re proud to do it. Thus we present Table Stakes, a monthly rundown of the five (or so) must-know spots that have swung wide their doors in the past thirty (or so). Bon appétit.
Gozu
Embarcadero
Why now: The biggest, hottest, most-spectacle-minded steak experience in town: Wagyu steakhouse Gozu has arrived, with its 2½-hour, 10-course meal, “comprised of Japanese and local sea life, wild foods, and [obvs] wagyu.” If you’re going to trust anyone with $150 earmarked for fancy beef, executive chef Marc Zimmerman — an alum of Alexander’s Steakhouse and Nobu — is probably a good choice.
Eat this: As above. But if you’re going to splash out, why not spend an extra $35 for the New Year’s meal? (In for $150, in for $185, as they say.) Dinner will be served at 5:30 — unless you want to add another $25 to the bill, for an 8:30 seating.
201 Spear St. (map)
First Edition
Uptown Oakland
Why now: Because of all the bar concepts out there, we somehow hadn’t already come to “comic books, leaning hard on supervillains.”
Drink this: Inspired by Cocktail Codex — if you like drinks, you probably read it — beverage director Napier Bulanan came up with a menu of six “root” options: old fashioneds, martinis, daiquiris, sidecars, highballs, and flips, plus two increasingly complicated versions of each, like a “Thrillmonger” with reposado tequila, cantaloupe-infused dry vermouth, mint syrup and citric acid. (There’s also beer, with tacos supplied by next-door Xolo.)
1915 Broadway, Oakland (map)
Afuri Ramen + Dumpling
Cupertino
Why now: Because you want to be among the first in the state to sample the ramen goods from Afuri, the Tokyo chain that makes its California debut here. (Also, it’s David Chang’s top pick.)
Eat this: You’ve probably had your fill of tonkotsu, which takes its name from the pork bones that give the soup its deep, earthy flavor. Afuri’s offering something lighter and brighter, made from a chicken reduction with plenty of yuzu (that’s how Chang gets his).
20803 Stevens Creek Blvd. #110 (map)
The Bump Bar
Sausalito
Why now: Which bumps, you’re wondering? Caviar bumps, of course. And yes: That means caviar served directly onto your hand, warmed up a bit by body temperature — a process meant to enhance the flavor.
Eat this: When in the caviar bar, dine as the caviar bar-types do: There’s plenty of food-for-rich-people here, including caviar flights, grilled lobster and a Champagne-and-caviar tasting menu with items like ocean trout with “warm Parisian vegetables” and black cod in a chicken jus.
1403 Bridgeway, Sausalito (map)
Seven Stills
Mission Bay
Why now: Heading to the Chase Center? Build in some time to stop by the massive — 22,500 square feet! — craft brewery and spirits distillery.
Eat this: Obviously you’re going to want to go with a full stomach — the better to soak up all that Seven Stills whiskey. Later on, you might want to sample the food menu: think bacon-fried pickles and fried chicken sandwiches.
100 Hooper St., Suite #4 (map)
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