In recent years, the watch world has been flooded with folks looking to make a quick buck by capitalizing on a growing market, with plenty of bad actors in the “microbrand” scene — or, at least, plenty of poorly thought out and badly executed designs. Still, for all the myriad $300 to $500 copycat Submariners and Explorers, there are a handful of gems that stand out for their originality, attention to detail and the clear love that the founders exhibit for the broader watch world.
While it might be cynical to say that Toledano & Chan’s b/1 is a completely original design — no watch is born in a vacuum, after all, and this one clearly borrows liberally from the vintage Rolex Midas — there’s plenty to love about this quirky piece. Conceived by British-born, NYC-based conceptual artist Phil Toledano and Hong Kong-based collector Alfred Chan, it marries Brutalism and luxury in a way that feels familiar to significantly more expensive pieces from larger brands. (Certain executions of Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo come immediately to mind, as do some vintage Piaget watches.)
The first b/1 — which features a stainless steel case married to a lapis lazuli dial — immediately grabbed the watch world’s attention when it was unveiled in 2024. Its case, inspired by the windows on the Met Breuer building in New York City, was immediately different, even if it took a page out of the Rolex Midas book, particularly with its left-hand “destro” crown configuration and integrated bracelet with seamless links. The use of an automatic Sellita movement kept the price relatively restrained at $4,000, even if it gave some sticker shock to the Windup Watch Fair crowd who might ostensibly form its “microbrand” customer base. A sequel, the b/1.2, saw the brand exchanging lapis lazuli for Tahitian mother-of-pearl, and a price increase to $5,700. Still, fans bit immediately, and the watch quickly sold out. A production version of a one-off all-meteorite execution retailed for $10,400, and is also long gone.
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The much-hyped Seamaster Diver 300M rounds out a trio of Milano Cortina 2026 exclusivesIf all this tickles your fancy — and if you’re willing to throw down Rolex money on a microbrand watch — then the new b/1.3r should be on your radar. In our opinion, it’s the best-looking execution of this Breuer-inspired design yet, with a refined titanium case paired to a beautiful 18K yellow gold dial in a sand-like pattern. Looking like something that an Imperial overlord might rock in the Mos Eisley Cantina, it somehow threads the needle between a Soviet Bloc-era housing complex and an Etruscan treasure trove.
Toledano & Chan didn’t just swap out the dial for this release, either. The case and bracelet (also titanium) dimensions have been refined, with the diameter reduced from 33.5mm to 32mm, which likewise results in a slight reduction in weight. The signature multi-faceted crystal means that case height varies, but is nowhere more than 12.4mm.
Still powered by the automatic Sellita SW100 movement — featured here without a seconds hand in the manner of vintage dress watches — the b/1.3r retails for $10,200. Produced in Switzerland and limited to 350 pieces, it’s sure to go quickly upon its release on Feb. 12 at 9 a.m. EST, especially if past editions are any indication.
There simply aren’t many watches that dare to capture a bit of the market share that’s largely owned by Richemont and LVMH brands, and certainly not at this price point. Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan’s love of architecture, watchmaking and industrial design more broadly clearly shines through in the b/1 in all its iterations — but for our money, it’s the b/1.3r that signals the arrival of one of the 21st century’s most exciting young microbrands.
Toledano & Chan b/1.3r
Diameter: 32mm
Movement: Sellita cal. SW100 automatic
Water Resistance: 50m
On Sale: Feb. 12 at 9 a.m. EST
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